I am a sixth generation Australian of Irish and Scottish extraction. A visit to my site is a light hearted adventure across time, countries and cities.
Bill the Bastard and Les – Aussie mongrels fighting a War.
Let me introduce Bill the Bastard. You have already met my Uncle Les in my previous Postcard ‘National Myths – Bastard Horses and Scared Heroic Young Men’. Les was a country lad: riding, shooting, and living rough was part of his way of life. Leslie was like all Aussie Lighthorseman of the First World War, rough, tough, adventurous, brave, courageous – And that was the horses I am describing! Bill the Bastard was an Aussie War Horse, a Lighthorse Trooper. Les and Bill spent the War chasing Turkish cavalry around the Palestine Desert. Other Australian Light Horsemen were dispatched to the battlefields of Gallipoli and France.
Mongrel Warriors – Aussie Troopers and their Horses of World War 1.
What a contrast. Turkish troopers represented the upper segments of their society, mounted as they were on highly trained thoroughbred horses. Australian’s troopers, Les and Bill, well they were the other end of the social spectrum. They had the characteristics required for success. What Australians will still describe as: “You gotta have some mongrel in you to succeed.”. By example, my previous Post, ‘Lawrence of Arabia and other Lying Bastards’, describes another adventure of the Australian Waler.
The language we speak is ever evolving, and a brief historical example explains this. At the 1066, English Battle of Hastings, we would not recognize the English, French, or German languages being spoken. The English of 1066 used words, and changed their meanings in a manner we would recognize. A ‘bastard’, who we know as William, was present at the Battle of Hastings.
Another right Bastard called Bill.
William the Conqueror, led the successful Norman Invasion of England in 1066, which changed the course of British history. British King Charles 3 is directly descendent from William, consequently the ruling British Monarchy actually took the British Throne by force of arms. Try doing that in Europe in 2024, without creating an awful fuss. The Pre-Norman English, preferred to call William ‘Bill the Bastard.’ Not all was wine and roses in 1067, England.
Jumping forward to 1914, the year Australia entered World War 1.
1914, the Aussie subjects of George 5, King Charles 3’s, Great Grandfather: Well, they had turned the ‘Kings English’ on its head. ‘Bastard’ had become a salute of honour, praise, and respect. Only Australian’s would take another country’s derogatory terminology, spin it, give it a completely opposite meaning. Aussie’s still do this. It’s origins?
Perhaps started with British convicts, those from the ‘back blocks’ of London, those transported to Australia for petty crimes. Such people created a coded language ‘rhyming slang’, intended to be their own, intended to confuse those in authority.
Definitely an Australian motivation for such colloquial language is in large part a ‘thumb your nose’ approach to those who get above their station. Australians still aspire to an egalitarian society where no man is king, and no man’s fine language makes him better than the rest.
Up steps ‘Bill the Bastard’! A horse who really represented this Australian Mythology of the ordinary bloke, being as good as the next, and capable of extraordinary achievements.
Australia’s War Horse – No they weren’t all called Bill.
Bill was an Australian ‘Waler,’ a War Horse. A Waler is an Aussie Iconic image: stout, ugly, tough, loyal, and resilient war horse unique to Australia. Troopers, like my Uncle Les, consider them mates. Bill had his origins in the English Thoroughbreds and Arabs the English Government shipped Down Under, along with an awful lot of Convicts. This was a tough new land; no fine English blood line would cut it. After introducing some ‘mongrel’ blood from South Africa and Timor: Bill appeared. A tough new breed, just the thing for: Beating the toffs at the Local Races, pulling the wife and kids in a buggy to Sunday Mass, riding to the pub: And fighting a war!
Bill fought in and survived the Battle of Romani 1916. He and his rider, raced through Turkish gunfire to collect four wounded Aussie Troopers. Two wounded troopers climbed up in the saddle behind the rider. Bill’s stirrups each supported another. It was fortunate for all, that the Turkish soldiers were consistently poor marksman. Bill galloped 1.6 miles back though soft sand, with Turkish rifle fire cracking around their heads.
This old horse was tough, he was a ‘Ridgee didge beautBastard!’
Bill the Bastard rescues five Australian soldiers.
Bill, the now tired old bastard, had earned his rest. Withdrawn from combat, he worked on Gallipoli, retrieving the fallen bodies of Aussie and Turkish boys. He retired on a farm in Gallipoli, and now rests in a marked grave with other fallen heroes. Bill has not been forgotten and recently a large bronze statue has been created in his honour.
How these Australians bastardize the King’s English.
(Another diversion to discuss Australian slang. I did warn in 'Time Travel and Me' of my unapologetic Aussie voice. The Aussie use of the derogatory 'Bastard' is the finest example of what my Countryman have done with the King's English. As follows a famous quote to illustrate)
(During the 1932-33 cricket test between England and Australia , English captain, Douglas Jardine, walked into the Australian dressing room to complain about being called a bastard. The Australian captain asked his team):
“Which one of you bastards called this bastard a bastard?”
It is a Leadership Lesson, about the risk of underestimating the underdog, the rough trade, low breed, back blocks stock, non-establishment types: They are often the heroes!
(This Postcard is one of my 'Postcard Snippets' range. Intentionally abbreviated, little more than introductions to a complex subject. Often, they first appeared as spontaneous Posts on Facebook or LinkedIn, sometimes on the anniversary of a historical event discussed therein. I provide links and suggestions to the interested reader so they may follow the bouncing ball and discover more about the endlessly fascinating stories History and Time Travel expose.)
On the 7th of December 1941, Australia was at war with Japan. Both Countries commenced their catastrophic clash of cultures in the Pacific. Australia declared war on Japan, in consequence of the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbour. That surprise attack awoke the sleeping giant that was the United States. It was however, along with the British Commonwealth, woefully unprepared for war. Japan had the upper hand as a result of preparation, recent combat experience, and shear bloody ruthlessness.
Then things changed as a result of two primary victories. Firstly, men such as though below, halted, reversed, and then drove the Japanese forces out of New Guinea. Secondly, in parallel with the first action, A combined US and Aussie fleet, defeated the Japanese Imperial Navy in the Battle of the Coral Sea.
One of my passions is Time travel, you may recognize it more readily as the study of history. Military history remains at the forefront of historical studies, above all because it contains so many lessons about the nature of humans.
Japan brings war Downunder.
23rd January 1942, Japan landed on New Guinea, approaching Australia via the Kokoda Track. After a year of brutal, ruthless, slaughter, where few POWs on either side were taken; on the 9th of December 1942 Japan began its withdrawal from New Guinea. But such withdrawal came with a problem. Japanese Imperial forces had no military order for retreat, they had never needed too or even drilled a retreat action. The commanding General had a pragmatic solution:
“Advance to the rear“.
General Tomitarō Horii
However, it was not that simple. Aussie men, men of my grandfathers and father’s generation, men just like those below, they weren’t having any of this simply walking away routine. Consequently, they chased the Japanese all the way out of New Guinea, well actually most Japanese boys stayed permanently, rotting in the ground.
Yes, typical of Aussie troops, what are scruffy lot! They might have been unkept, but when Australia was at war, well these blokes stepped up.
1941 multicultural Australia at war.
This photograph is historically interesting, because of the two issues it illustrates:
An Australian will recognize the multicultural mix we already were by 1941. First Nations, fair skinned Scots, olive skinned Italians and Welsh, light-built Angles and heavy-built Saxons – All Australian; and
For a Country caught with its pants down by the outbreak of war, well in barely more than half an Infantry Section, there are by 1942 standards, a predominant number of automatic weapons. 303 Bren Gun, jungle clearing sweeper, usually fired from the hip in advance, and supplying fire support in withdrawal. The .45 Thompson Machine Gun of 1920’s gangster fame, a heavy unreliable weapon, but critical fire power at close quarters in New Guinea’s heavy rainforest. Devastatingly effective when poked through the firing port of a once concealed Japanese bunker.
Scruffy Aussies at War.
“I saw an Australian step out of the jungle, naked other than a pair of torn shorts, firing a Thompson with one hand, he threw grenades with the other. I knew we could not defeat men such as these.”
A Japanese Warrant Officer
Scruffy, naked, but effective Aussie Diggers.
Australia at War – Lest we Forget, but please don’t celebrate.
On ANZAC day, Australians and New Zealanders stop and remember the sacrifice of men such as these. War is the worst form of human behaviour. As a result, war must always be the last resort. Of course, sometime wars of self-defense are the inevitable response to aggression. TheRules of War must be maintained, otherwise we many never find our way back to peace. It’s difficult to consider peace with an enemy, who invaded without provocation, and then rapped, pillaged, tortured and cannibalized their way across your Country. The alternative to war by rules is simply terrorism and inhuman brutality.
17,000 Aussie men like these, died in the War against Japan, 8,000 of these as starved, brutalized, tortured, and over worked prisoners of war.
10,000 Japanese boys marched down the Kokoda Track, New Guinea toward Australia – Less than 600 would ever see Japan again.
Fortunately, Australia and Japan are now close friends, as Australia is with Vietnam, after similar brutal combat. No holds barred enemies, don’t have to remain so, things can change, but both sides must make the choice.
Lest we forget out shared humanity in our present troubled times.
(This Postcard was written in October 2023, on the evening before jumping a flight from Australia to Indonesia. The commencement of my latest Indonesian adventure)
Tomorrow at dawn, I’m starting my Indonesian journey flying into Denpasar International Airport, Bali, Indonesia. After a few days on the Island of Bali, I’m flying to Yogyakarta. Bali, the Island of the Gods will see us doing much eating and relaxing. Such a life can be very seductive.
It’s difficult to avoid Hindu spiritualism in Bali. In consequence of temples, altars, and daily offering being ever present. Almost as difficult as avoiding the many touts and spiffs trying to sell you stuff you don’t really want. In summary this Postcard captures my current reflections on Bali. Where precisely is Bali in reference to our home?
Australia – A huge empty country, bumping Asian history.
Bali’s history – Praying, eating and chilling.
So, what’s all the praying, eating and chilling got to do with Bali, actually it appears to be the essence of tourism. I’m no stranger to Bali as we have both visited, I guess ten times or more, but it’s not to everyone’s taste. Bali is an island primarily of Hindu culture. Indonesia was primarily Hindu until the end of the 13 Century. With the emergence and eventual dominance of the Muslim religion on one hand and secondly war and conflict, the Hindu population gradually retreated to Bali. The Bali economy, since 1970, has primarily been driven by Australian tourism. In those days it was a hippie surfer destination, then Julia Roberts arrived. Bali gained international popularity with her 2010 movie ‘Eat, Pray, Love’. An international audience was introduced to the seductive eating, and the captivating spiritualism of Bali. I have written previously about spiritualism and religion in Indonesia, you can follow the link here.
Markets in Bali – Not quite this romantic, closer to hand-to-hand combat.
Commercial chaos, eating and chilling – An awful amount of waiting around.
Don’t get me wrong, Bali can be very romantic, but it’s also insanely commercial. It’s impossible to leave your accommodation without constant pestering to buy trinkets, clothes, jewelry, massage: it never stops. “Tidak, terima kasih, aku tidak menginginkan itu”, yes it helps to speak some Bahasa Indonesian, or simply say, “No Thank you”.
The Balinese invariably speak English, as a result of long contact with Australians. Though not surprisingly, often with a strong, broad, vowel twisting, Aussie Twang! Take the Australians out of Bali, like what happened through Covid, economic collapse. Every Balinese is an entrepreneur, everyone is on the game, all seeking an edge. They also seem to have hearing like arctic foxes. I always laugh, when a merchant dozing in the afternoon heat, clearly hears my own tortured Aussie vowels, responding: “Howse ewes going mate?” A tactic that seeks to imply understanding and mateship.
Our neighbourhood Kuta, Bali. Balinese often just sit and wait all day for custom.
Irrespective of Bali’s commercial mayhem, it’s usually clean. No, the attentive young ladies are not what you think. They work in legitimate massage parlours, extremely common. It’s easy to be cynical, to see Bali as full of grifters and chiseling spiffs. And that’s true, however in addition to being friendly and charming grifters, on the other hand Balinese inevitably take their Hinduism very seriously.
Seductive spiritual food – a Whole lot of praying.
Balinese believe that ancestors never leave, their spirit remains. Evil spirits and demons preside, and humans must keep them at peace and in balance. The process of making offerings and undertaking ceremony are critical daily activities, even commerce takes a back seat. Locals’ making offerings, conducting, or preparing for ceremony will frequently interact with your own activity. For a confirmed infidel like me, it’s something incredibly special. However, despite the spiritual atmosphere, it’s often simply necessary to seek refuge in your accommodation. I have a Postcard specifically about spiritualism and eating on the Island of Bali Indonesia. Perhaps you might like to read it by following this link.
Daily offerings of flowers and fruit – Makes the local squirrels incredibly happy chaps.
Accommodation: escape the chaos.
Fortunately, 15 years back I discovered Poppers right in the middle of this madness which offers refuge and peace, a time to refresh before getting back into the fray. It’s a collection of traditional villas, surrounded by a sculptured walled perimeter, creating an oasis. Step inside the gate and chaos simply disappears.
Poppies Kuta – Gateway to peace and tranquility
The accommodation is very traditionally Balinese, a bit old hat these days, but very charming. The Balinese thatched roof or ‘Alang Alang’ is a notable trait. This is actually authentic, there is no western tin roof underneath to ensure water tightness.
Your own villa surrounded by tropical gardens.
The Balinese are exceptional hosts. Poppies staff have been working together for decades, so they exude an obvious sense of ownership and pride. And do they like to chat and practice their English. Mornings for me always start, eating and chilling, with coffee and tropical fruit on that terrace, chatting with the gardeners in our respective broken English and Bahasa. Coffee addicts will love Bali as it grows some of the world’s finest coffee. You might like to sample what Aussies jokingly called ‘poo coffee’, or Kopi Luwak (Luwak Coffee). First you feed raw coffee beans to a small mammal called a Luwak. Balinese collect the partially digested beans that have passed through the Luwak’s bowels, and process as normal.
Yes, I’m with you, I also thought it was a joke, however it’ s no joke now Kopi Luwak is huge international business.
Coffee time – Saya mau, kopi hitam.
Personnaly I prefer Kopi Hitam (Black coffee), or to us Aussies, ‘Bali Collision Kopi’. Rough grind dark roasted beans, add to jug, pour in boiling water, stir and serve. A little grainy, pungently aromatic but simply superb.
Breakfast – Bali Time
Afternoons in Bali can be hot and steamy, cooling rain is not as abundant as it was. So, retreat to Poppies and a cooling swim.
Followed by an afternoon nap, just the thing to set your spirit as ease.
A very traditional Balinese interior, maintained in superb condition.
To place some financial context around Indonesian accommodation, one night’s accommodation in the Villa above costs as follows:
140 Australian Dollars.
73 Pounds Sterling.
89 US Dollars.
85 Euro; and
9000 Russian Rouble.
Unwelcome guests – Russian style eating, chilling and vodka chasers:
Since my last Bali visit, one thing has changed – Russians! Russians have had a presence in Bali for some time. There have always been rumours of dark criminal Russian money being invested in Bali real estate. Previously I have encountered Russian tourists in the more remote beach side scuba diving resorts, Bali has excellent diving opportunities. Since the invasion of Ukraine, up to 20,000 Russians per month have been arriving in Bali, escaping Putin’s military draft.
One of Russia’s finest – Nude biking is completely acceptable apparently.
Many of the allegations made against the Russians—drunkenness, disrespect of local culture, and dangerous driving—have long been levelled against visitors from across the world, especially so my compatriots. However, Russians are widely seen as particularly egregious offenders.
The Australians also cause problems, that’s for sure, but they are just drunk persons,it’s just childish naughtiness, kind of annoying but that’s about it. But the Russians—no, they think they own the place.”
I Wayan Koster. Govenor of Bali.
Balinese police recently announced a Russian man would be deported and banned from re-entering for six months after partially undressing on a sacred mountain in Bali. He will become the 58th Russian to be evicted this year. (The Balinese might be commercial, but they remain 100% intolerant of disrespect of their spiritualism)
Welcome guests – Aussie style eating, chilling and vodka chasers.
Over the years, Balinese authorities have deported plenty of my countryman, found to have broken the rules, often while intoxicated. But locals say Indonesians and Australians have come to know each other, with many repeat holidaymakers. Drunk young men in Bintang singlets are a minority – even if they make a lot of noise.
So as excited as I am about being back in the Island of the Gods, I could do without the increased presence of drunk Russians!
Corrupt Cops and Military Muscle.
Indonesia has an exceptionally large military. Australia’s relationship with Indonesia has been a roller coaster, the up, down, and sideways relationship of two neighbours who don’t always agree. There has been much distrust from both sides. During my time in the Australian Army, our theoretical opposition, on which volumes of methodology existed, was clearly intended to be Indonesia. Armed forces: military, paramilitary, and police, lurk as a shadowy presence in Indonesia.
There is a frequent police presence in Bali, it’s much like Rome, Italy in the sense that there seem to be uniformed police for every function: Traffic, cultural, religious, tourist, narcotics, theft, etc. Most of them are like Sgt Wayan below, kinda like your uncle, yes, he is a cop, but a friendly one, don’t think he even knows how to use the geriatric old revolver he carries. Sgt Wayan represents a culture of ‘on the spot fines’, you and I would see it as Balinese corruption. It’s notably improved, but still occasionally occurs.
Dad’s Army Indonesian Style
Indonesian Policing – The cute and funny side.
Sometimes Indonesian policing is quite funny, as in the ‘Naughty Tourist Task Force’ (NTTF). I’m sure Indonesian’s laugh at my attempt at speaking Bahasa, they’re just too polite to let it show. You never consider that your native language is complex, it seems logical, you’ve been speaking it since you were born. But nonnative speakers, often can never learn the nuance that you don’t even think about. Oh, I hope I don’t get busted by the NTTF!
Knock Knock – NTFF calling, who knicked the Nasi Goring?
Sometimes the police forces are cute. The role of women in Indonesian society continues to mature and evolve, that’s a good thing.
I can imagine these ladies under cover in the NTTF?
Indonesian Policing – The paramilitary muscle and no laughing matter side.
Then overnight in an otherwise quiet Bali, serious paramilitary force can simply appear. You realize that such muscle is just hidden away, constantly on tap.
And at times of threat of terrorism, well it gets profoundly serious, Densus 88, anti-terror special forces simply materialize. Note the Steyr Assault Rifle, carried on the right? That just happens to be the standard issue weapon of the Aussie Military. Perhaps surprisingly, given the sometimes-difficult relationship, Densus 88 is substantially trained by Australian Military.
Knock, Knock – Densus 88 calling!
Fortunately, such times are rare. But for an Australian living in a society, where police are scarcely armed, few citizens own weapons and when Australian military simply never go armed in the street – You realize that your probably not in Kansas anymore.
Eating and chilling – Bali style.
One of the pleasures of travelling is the food. Bali does not disappoint. Hygiene is important. There is no such thing as safe tape water in Indonesia. So, a lettuce or vegetable washed in tap water, or a cocktail with tap water ice, well welcome to Bali Belly. Trust me, it’s not only your belly that ends up hurting.
Fortunately, most establishments control the risk, but it’s always present.
Some nights we will eat in the garden at Poppies, with an environment like this, why would you not?
Romance for four? In your own tropical garden.
Bali Dutch colonial influence remains in the food.
A little bit of history and a delicious meal can be found by sampling a ‘Rijsttafel’, a Dutch word that literally translates to rice table. Popular side dishes include egg rolls, sambals, satay, fish, fruit, vegetables, pickles, and nuts. The Dutch introduced the rice table not only so they could enjoy a wide array of dishes at a single sitting but also to impress visitors with the exotic abundance of their colony. Which is ridiculously arrogant, but the Indonesians liked the idea, and it remained well past independence.
‘Rijsttafel’ – The Indonesian Smorgasbord.
The real taste of Indonesia is to be found in the street food. Food carts remain common in cities like Yogyakarta, not so much Bali. Two reasons I suspect, firstly the roads are horribly congested, and secondly infecting tourists with Bali Belly is probably not a good marketing strategy. As tempting as it looks its probable best to avoid.
However, there are plenty of safe alternatives, such as Madi’s Warung.
Madi’s: Authentic Street Food without the risk.
Madi’s is a real institution, often hard to get a table. Offers all manner of authentic Balinese and Indonesian street food.
Breakfast: Bali Style
So yes, I’m excited about my journey which commences in 10 hours.
I’m looking forward to reporting more on my observations on accommodation, architecture, politics, security, society, food, and spiritualism – Indonesian Style.
(This Postcard was written 48 hours before commencing October 2023 Indonesian adventure. I was pondering travel preparations, the 40 yearlong planning cycle that found me arriving where I am today, and off course the new experiences ahead.)
Travel preparation captures many issues. Finance, how do I pay for it. Time scale, long term thinking, yes that’s very boring, but it’s also a superpower. Achieving most things in life requires planning over time. Excitement, really important to embrace the passion and excitement of travel adventure, the thrill of experiencing new things. History, many people travel to Indonesia and know nothing of its history, I’m fine with that. Indonesia offers unique adventures, and a travel budget to suit everyone. But I believe knowing something of the history of a travel destination, adds immeasurably to the experience.
Kenalkan, saya nama Peter. Siapa nama Anda? (Let me Introduce myself, my name is Peter. What’s your name?)
Well, that’s me!
Travel preparation and language.
Ok not time for Bahasa Indonesian but soon. For in less than 48 hours I’m in the air to Indonesia for October. Learning something of the language of the countries you visit is recommended but not critical travel preparation. I taught myself Bahasa Indonesian starting from age 40. I’m far from fluent, and it’s not the easiest language to maintain in Australia. Contemporary Australia is indeed multicultural, most of the Planet’s cultures and languages are represented. But, unless you reside in a major metropolis, English is generally all most people speak. What other critical travel preparations require consideration?
Safe Travel – Starts with a solid foundation, Aussie ‘Mongrel’ Work Boots
Foundations of travel preparation.
Footwear and luggage are fundamental travel preparation considerations. I favour Australian made ‘Mongrel’ work boots. The Aussie boot is tough, durable, traditionally made, yet includes contemporary technology to ensure foot support and comfort. They are also exceptionally economical, when a long-life cycle is taken into account. Experienced military and construction professionals, careers involving long hours on your feet, know well, look after your feet and the body and mind will follow. What about luggage.
I favour bag packs, a small one and a larger one. As my travel companion, my wife Lizzie, opts only for a suitcase, well back packs give me free hands to add to my gentleman credit and man handle that suitcase downstairs and over common obstacle. The small pack is versatile. Well packed as carry on, it captures 7.5 Kilograms, as well as essentials for flying: food, water, electronics, notebook and reading material. It also becomes an everyday hauler when the adventure commences. With 7.5 Kg captured, my large back for a month will come in at around 13 kilograms (easy all-day haul if necessary), well excluding spill over from that bloody suitcase!
I currently use US Designed 5.11 backpacks. Durability, comfort, and storage design are my primary travel preparation considerations in selecting luggage. The 5.11 ticks those boxes. Constructed of 100% nylon, a little more expensive, but much superior to the common use of polyester. Wide, well padded, and adjustable shoulder harness and hip belt, bring excellent comfort, especially for the ‘well-built mature’ person. The storage design in the smaller 5.11’s is excellent. I find them perfect day travelling packs, good security zones, hidden areas, and plenty of smaller compartments for essentials.
Travel preparations over a lifetime.
Since my trip to Singapore this time last year, well I’ve been busy. Yes, I’m reaching the end of my third year of retirement, but that does not mean life stops. I’ve been busy, renovating an old Aussie farmhouse, reading, trying to learn how to write, and squeezing in some running and gym work. I’m 61 in two weeks, it’s important, increasingly so, to try to keep the old corpse in some condition.
Getting to now has taken some planning. Forty-one years of planning. At age 20, three years into my architectural apprenticeship, my work environment inspired the itching desire to retire early in good condition financially and health wise. Three years’ work had introduced me to many ‘mature’ people, who were worn out physically and financially broke. I knew that’s not for me.
A crash course in handling money, practice, patience, a whole lot of years, enduring four international financial downturns, I slowly gained knowledge. All that combined with Australia’s tax effective superannuation system: Well, I made it in the end. My travel preparation was effective. Not to say there were not a few false starts, dead ends, new beginnings, and plenty of tears along that way. Key learnings? Focus, clear understanding of the end state desired, some luck, resilience, determination, and a big swag of discipline. Now it’s time for some fun!
Anticipation rising with the Phoenix Hotel.
My home in Yogyakarta, Indonesia – Phoenix Hotel
Ok, so I’m not backpacking. Been there, got the ‘T shirt’. In my time in harness for my Queen, I lived plenty out of a backpack. However, Indonesia offers delights for backpackers. Accommodation with breakfast is available under $20 AUD. Such accommodation varies from a beachside bungalow to shared dormitory style in a major city. This trip however I’m travelling 5-star all the way. Well similar, the 5-star western system is not generally used in Indonesia, outside the major cities like Jakarta. I’ve booked some interesting hotels. To place some financial context around my choice, my maximum expenditure per night with breakfast $140 AUD.
The Phoenix Hotel Yogyakarta started life in the 1890’s the home of a Chinese spice entrepreneur. In the European Art Deco style, infused with Javanese architectural aesthetics. It is an inspiring example of Indonesian-Dutch architecture, known as Indische. European colonization of Asian and African countries rightfully gets a bad rap today. But, if you look hard enough, you can see evidence of the results possible when cultures merge and inspire each other. Due to its great historical significance, in 1996 the Indonesian Government, designated the Phoenix Hotel a national historical landmark.
The original owner’s fortunes crashed with the stock market in the 1930’s. Perhaps he should have realised all good things end. On life’s journey we encounter waypoints, whispers that it’s time to change course, to get out, to renew. That’s my view, the trick is too really listen to those voices, and to act.
Damn! I built it now you’ve knicked it:
A new owner transformed the house into a hotel. Such a splendid place that in the 1940’s the Japanese Imperial Army said, “We’ll have that thanks”, and they did. Japan off course was tossed out, however the Dutch wanted their empire back. All the Europeans wanted their Asian empires back. Ironic given the blood and treasury expended destroying Japanese empire building. Indonesia descended into a war of liberation, achieving independence on 17 August 1945.
The Phoenix rose from the ashes in 1951 becoming another fine hotel. So fine that the Indonesia’s first, President Sukarno said, “I’ll have that thanks”, and made it his home. In 2009 the Phoenix Hotel, as it now is, emerged.
Breakfast – Yogyakarta Style.
Travel preparation budget – Indonesia can be ‘Murak sekali’. (very cheap)
So, I’m extremely excited about exploring such a fine restored example of Indonesian architecture. You may think I’ve sold mum’s silver service to fund this trip? Well, this is part of the attraction of getting off the main Indonesian tourist beat, it’s very economical. A night in the Phoenix, including a ‘Rijsttafel’ breakfast (think smorgasbord), costs less than an average motel in Wagga Wagga, Australia. No offence to Wagga Wagga, it’s a typical rural Aussie Town, but it can’t make spicey Nasi with a side order of sambal. Actually, I was born in Wagga!
Currently the Aussie Dollar has been in free fall. Quite a concern for an Aussie time travelling adventurer, blame the Chinese economy. What? Well despite many warnings, all my homeland sells internationally is iron ore and invites to come Down Under and “Toss a shrimp on the Barbie”. What a horrible travel slogan. Australians don’t use the word shrimp. So, the Chinese don’t want any more iron ore, and have plenty of shrimp at home, thank you very much!
So what else am I up to?
Yogyakarta, Indonesia adventures – Spiritualism and eating!
Borobudur – World’s Largest Buddhist Temple
Yogyakarta has many fine historical examples of Muslim, Hindu, and Buddhist architecture. Some date back to the 10th and 13th Century, collectively they illustrate the complex history of contemporary Indonesia. I’m an infidel myself, but very much interested in all traditional faiths. So, I will indeed be spending time exploring this history. (PS: Actually, I had a human spiritual experience at Borobudur. My story available by clicking this link.)
Then there is eating?
Growing up a 1960’s child in Australia, well let’s say the food was very ho hum. The basic British meat and three vegetable style. Fortunately, in consequence of immigration, and that my Country generally embraces multiculturalism, international food styles are now commonplace. But there is nothing common place about Yogyakarta food, especially the everyday street food.
For context – 20,000 Indonesian Rupiah (RP) – 2 Aus Dollars, 1 Brit Pound, 1.3 US Dollars, 1.2 Euro
.
I’m extremely excited about my journey. Hopefully, I can squeeze in some writing around developing my spiritualism and savouring some ‘Nasi Gudeg Ayam Paja Atsa’. Although I have truly little idea what that is.
Life is a journey of exploration, it should be fun, it requires planning and defined objectives. Also, a willingness to embrace change. Oh, and a dose of luck and good fortune, for my share of such things I am incredibly grateful.
(This Post, written in September 2023, is part of a series written from Australia prior to commencing an adventure in Indonesia. The series explores my proposed travel destinations, whilst placing them in a historical context)
My previous Postcards introduced my time travel through history adventure in Yogyakarta, Indonesia. Where exactly is it? Why would you, the reader, go there? Indonesia has a complex society with a rich history, Wikipedia Indonesia is certainly worth a visit for background.
Adventure in Yogyakarta, Java Island, Indonesia
Why do we choose to travel through history?
People have been asking this question for two thousand years. Answers time travel through history down to us from the great thinkers of their times. But we know nothing of the common men and women that frequented those bars, cafes, inns, and brothels along the Silk Road of 200BC. What if they could talk, what voice would we hear?
As a child my house and yard were my world, as I grew, my neighbourhood, my town etc. Yet in my parochial isolation, in say 1974, I never dreamt that Marco Polo, and many others, were part of an internationally connected world, centuries earlier, many of whom would travel through history
Would those common folk say:
I do it for the adventure?
Because I can?
I’m searching for myself.
It’s how I trade, and trading makes money!
Parts unknown – Time travel through history.
I am sure they would, perhaps all four. Would they reflect the voice of the USA’s Anthony Bourdain, common man, but not so common Chef, Restaurateur, and Author who said of his own travel through history:
“Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body.”
Anthony Bourdain
Ever had Bali Belly? – Not your heart that gets broken!
Well, I’m not delusional. And I’m 60 not back packing, nor on a back packer budget – I’m not expecting my trip to Yogyakarta to physically hurt all that much. However, I am hoping it changes me for the better, expands my mind, even just a little. As I move toward my actual final resting place, it would be great to think the trip gives me just a little more wisdom about my place in the world. I have specifically written of the spiritual aspects of Indonesia, you can explore my thoughts on this subject at this link.
What about Yogyakarta’s place in the World?
I believe you should know something about where you’re from in order to travel through history to where you’re going. So, what about my place, Australia’s place in the world? Put simply: Where you from Cousin?
Australia is the result of a transported Britain, in 1788AD slammed down in someone else’s part of the Planet. 788 men and women (convicts), Britain’s unwanted, plus 200 odd British Marines (The ones no Regiment wanted), sailors, and officers. It’s often thought these ‘convicts’ were the criminal underbelly of Britain: In reality minor pick pockets and knickers of pigs and chickens. Serious criminals: The rapists, and murderers – Well, they simply had their necks stretched on the end of the King’s rope.
Somewhere in this chaos my family arrived and commenced their Australian travel through history: Perhaps as pick pockets, more worrying for me as the unwanted trash of the British Marines, but definitely as Irish economic refugees in the 1860s.
In 2023 Australia is a country of 26.33 million people. Multicultural and generally accepting of all races, creeds, and political beliefs.
Travel through history with unconscious bias.
We tend to assess other Countries against what we understand of our own immediate world. IE: I think of myself as a citizen of a liberal democratic multicultural society. It’s easy to unconsciously compare other Countries against that base line – Perhaps even an unconscious bias.
The error and danger in this came home to me in Singapore last year. Singapore has always been criticized as autocratic, not genuinely democratic. With this bias Singapore should not be successful, right? Wrong! I found a society where most people have: Access to:
Clean water;
Education;
Sewerage;
Cheap first-class public transport;
World class medical treatment;
Time and money to shop, eat out and then do some more shopping; and
high paid work and affordable public funded housing – Housing that as they ‘rent’, tenants create capital that belongs to them.
A form of Socialism? Yes! But socialism that actually works and is economically sustainable. Liberal Democracy may not be the perfect answer to all situations.
So, that’s a potted summary of my own time travel through history. What of Yogyakarta, Indonesia?
Origins of Yogyakarta:
Indonesian people are a mix of different genetic groups of modern humans whose travel through history from Africa arriving on the Indonesian archipelago around 50,000 ago. Descendants of this group continued to walk to Australia. Well, there’s a connection, at least some of the blood lines in Yogyakarta once walked alongside the First Nations People of Australia.
Indonesians and Australians walked out of Africa.
.
Travel through history to Yogyakarta – 1066 AD
I’m travelling back through history to 1066AD for two reasons: A quick snapshot has to start somewhere, and to establish a context benchmark against the British culture from where my genes continued their time travel. So, Britain 1066AD, what was happening:
1066 Battle of Hastings, British history changed forever.
1066, the Anglo-Saxon culture of England fell to the ‘William the Conqueror’s’ Norman Invasion in the ‘Battle of Hastings’, portrayed in the famous Bayeux Tapestry.It’s easy to believe that everyone simply shook hands after Hastings and went back to business but fighting continued until 1071. Was England then peaceful?
Yes, there was comparative peace, largely because North England was raped, burned, pillaged, depopulated, and devastated by the Norman desire for Peace.
To get some context on this: Think of your country’s largest city. Imagine if in a period of 5 years, all your neighbours in the – Aristocracy, government, military, church, or the business of land ownership: Were replaced by a Foreigners? Imagine what that would do too the place you call home?
I’ve always imagined the what ifs, should the gloriously, funny, silly, experiment we call Australia, simply be taken by force and moulded into something different. That’s what happened to England in 1066, and I suspect Yogyakarta as well. But,
Cultures fall, rise and continue their time travel.
A travel through history shows, that though cultures and civilizations fall, they often get up again. England did that after 1066. Then saw its culture change dramatically again, Civil War started in 1646AD, resulting in the execution of King Charles I, and the creation of England’s only Republic until 1660AD, when the Monarchy was re-established.
Cultures and civilizations fall, but life goes on. For those living it, the choice is acceptance or often death. For us centuries later, it’s usually the case that we have simply forgotten where we came from. Take the recent coronation of King Charles III: You would never think the Norman Invasion occurred or that English Republicanism ever triumphed! A fact brought home by considering that the new English King, Charles III is directly descended from William the Conqueror. (I should note that as an Aussie, dear Charles remains my King as well)
William The Conqueror’s Great ….. Great Grandson
So, what was happening in Australia in 1066AD? The First Nations People were continuing much as they had since walking from Africa, via Indonesia some 60,000 years previously – Living a spiritual life in profound connection with Country. So, they never fought? Well of course they fought amongst themselves. Most Indigenous people fought wars between clan groups, etc. But these were often ceremonial in nature, and certainly seldom wars aimed at elimination of another groups culture – Often they were culture affirming not culture destroying, whereas.
Year 1066 – Britian’s car crash
The 1066 Norman Invasion of England was car crashingly destructive of the Anglo-Saxon culture and civilization it conquered. Yet, England continued to grow and prosper, becoming the Planet’s dominant international Empire by the 20th Century, not waning until 1945, when the cost of World War 2, was more than even the plucky Brits could endure.
If history does not repeat but often rhymes, as suggested by Mark Twain, can we see such rhythms in Yogyakarta and the broader Indonesia?
Great words – Lousy haircut.
So, what of Yogyakarta in 1066?
Yogyakarta did not exist as a notable identity. But as for the Island of Java where Yogyakarta developed – Fighting and conflict a plenty! I guess BBC documentaries inspired the desire for ‘How to build an empire’?
By 1066AD the ‘Melayu Kingdom’, had risen to dominance. The name time travels to us in the words: Malay, Malaya and of course Malaysia. Melayu is known as a grand international kingdom, centre of knowledge, power, trade, and wealth. It was connected to the rest of the world, much as Singapore is today.
In 1285AD it welcomed a great Italian traveller Marco Polo, who wrote extensively about his travels. Indeed, many suspect it was Marco’s writings that inspired the future rampaging European empire building in other people’s back gardens.
Marco perhaps regretted leaving Venice.
So, trying to build your own empire? Or, simply planning a relaxing holiday somewhere along todays Silk Road – Toss some Marco in your backpack.
Marco also said:
“I have only written half of what I have seen, as no one would believe the other half.”
Marco Polo
Which seems accurate as Marco claimed to have seen unicorns in Melayu! He may have been a busy traveller, but it seems he always had time for long liquid lunches.
Time Travelling Mongols.
In 1289AD the Melayu had a less welcome visitor, an envoy from Kublai Kahn. Kublai was following the travel recommendation of Marco – I suspect it was gold not unicorns he wanted. Recognize the name Kahn? Yes, Kublai was the grandson of the all-conquering Genghis Kahn. Since 16 million people are descended from the ‘busy’ Kublai, one can assume he had many grandsons. But,
This grandson conquered China forming the Yuan Dynasty – Whilst also remaining Emperor of Mongol. Now he set his sight on Melayu.
The Melayu promptly informed Kublai’s envoy that they had no interest in being vassals to Mongols. When he did not listen, and to improve his hearing, they promptly cut off his ear and sent him packing back to Kublai.
In 1293AD Kublai responded by sending more emissaries in the form of an invasion force of 1000 ships – Roughly the force that William used to take England.
Who Invited Marco Polo and his Drinking Mates?
Traitorous relatives, Kingdom lost
The people of Melayu fought well, Mongols were highly effective in battle, but the Sultan had a son in law, a traitorous one – Raden Wijaya. He joined with the Mongols – The Melayu were defeated, their Kingdom raped, burnt, and pillaged – The go to response of all would be conquerors. Young Raden then turned on the Mongols – He won! I suppose being a traitor to your dad, does not prevent you being a brilliant military commander.
The Mongols caught the monsoon winds and travelled back to China. All this travel seems remarkable, how did they know where they were going? After all, the legendary navigator, His Majesty’s Captain James Cook, only found Australia centuries later, by the expedient of running straight into it and wrecking the King’s ship. The answer is pretty simple, travellers in these Middle Ages were moving all over the place. No great secret, we simply in our contemporary smugness have forgotten.
What of Marco Polo? Well as you imagine Kublai was pretty cranky that Marco failed to mention, that as well as gold, spices, and perhaps unicorns – These Indonesians to be, could really fight! In grand Mongol tradition Marco’s last journey was to walk to a chopping block and a Mongol axe. See Marco had for decades been spying for the Mongols – No one taught me that in primary school!
Another Kingdom commences its Time Travel
With the destruction of the Melayu Kingdom, via force and treachery, a new Kingdom emerged – The Majaphit Kingdom. Known as the high point of Indonesian culture and civilization. Religion, government, legal systems, art, military arts, architecture, trade, and international connectivity, all prospered and developed through this Kingdom. Then,
Other great travellers dusted off their Michelin Guides, and the long-forgotten Silk Road Maps of the Sea – Sailed forth to see what Marco Polo had carried on about: The Dutch and English arrived – They weren’t much interested in culture and art, like Kublai they wanted gold! I sense another culture and civilization is about to fall!
When I reflect on my tiny little world way back in 1974, well? Well, I end up agreeing with Anthony Bourdain:
(The Postcard was written in September 2023. Preparing for an Indonesian adventure, I explored Indonesian history via a series of Postcards.)
Motivation for Time Travel.
Soon, I’m up anchor and travelling to Yogyakarta, Indonesia to commence another time travel adventure. Follow this link to understand how and why I use the idea of time travel. Why travel? What do we get from travelling? I am not by nature very reflective, so set myself the task to explore such questions. Perhaps explore Indonesia via a few Postcards, before heading off. Since I’m not a good sailor and travelling by tramp steamer from Australia to Indonesia has been done, and due to pirates is none to safe, then it’s:
Really chocks away, grab a flight – here we go!
Where is Yogyakarta and how far am I travelling?
Yogyakarta, Indonesia is 5000 kilometres from Australia. Six hours direct flying time. Travel time from my home to hotel – Say 10 hours.
The first reflection is one of adventure and the unknown. I live on a rural property 100 kilometres West of Brisbane, quiet, undeveloped with a small population.
My Neighbourhood – Cows, kangaroo, and a whole lot of quiet!
Then there is Yogyakarta!
A lot of tightly packed streets – And no kangaroo!
Yogyakarta has a population density of 1100 people per square kilometre – Compared to my neighbourhood of 5 people, 300 cows, and a 100 kangaroo.
The contrast is even more extreme when you consider the street where I live in Australia, with my temporary home in Yogyakarta:
My Neighbourhood – Cows, kangaroo, and a whole lot of quiet!
My Neighbourhood Yogyakarta
Time Travel Adventures – Remedy for jadedness.
Certainly, there is a sense of adventure, dropping down in a city where I don’t know one street. When you get to 60, well your own environment gets somewhat jaded. Nothing is ever new, and some places are just not as good as you remember them.
Well unlike dear, sad, missed Robin, I remember the 1960’s. When I was born in 1962, Australia had a population of 10.75 million – Today it’s 26.33 million. Not surprisingly my environment has changed: Not always for the better.
Time Travel to the 1960’s.
My Dad would take me fishing, simply pull up by a river or beach, set up a tarpaulin, camp on the ground, light a fire – catch a few fish. Sometimes the local ‘Wallopers’ (Police) would stop by, not to arrest my dad and his mates, far from it: They would have more than a few beers, play poker with Dad and his mates! Try that today, you would definitely be arrested. One of Indonesia’s attractions is the comparative lack of regulation and control.
Friends tell me they don’t like travel outside Australia:“The nose and eye savaging condition of bathrooms and toilets“. I never had the experience of an indoor flushing toilet until 1970. So, the ‘elegant’ bathrooms you sometimes encounter when travelling, come as no new life experience. All part of the time travel adventure.
Indonesia is known to me. I’ve been to Bali many times and once to the capital Jakarta. I studied Indonesia extensively in my time in the Australian Military – Australian/Indonesia relations have been troubled and at times very tense. One of my interests – What probable reason in 2023 have we for not being great supportive neighbours?
I also speak Bahasa Indonesian, well kind off. Like many Australians of British decent, there was simply no need, environment, or interest in acquiring multilingual skills. Something by the age of 40, I was quite embarrassed about. Definitely part of my interest in travelling is living daily with a non-native language as your primary means of communication. Plus, at 60 its good for your brain, up there with doing a sudoku puzzle a day.
I did say I’m not very reflective, and that’s it for me: No more reflections. So, I thought I would look at what wiser men than me (not extremely hard) have to say about travel.
Time Travel: The Ancient World
One of the first recorded comments on travel was theAncient Greek Aristotle (383 to 322 BC), he does not say very much:
Aristotle Time Traveller Adventurer
However, his writings cover a broad range of subjects including Biology, zoology, geology, and systems of government. Old Ari did not simply make this stuff up, he travelled widely observing intently. Aristotle’s philosophy influenced the three Abrahamic religions. Aristotle’s intellectual afterlife would be little less than a history of human thought. So, Ari was a great explorer in life, history proves him to be an impressive time travel adventurer in death. As the Muslim religion is dominant in Indonesia, then traces of Aristotle can be found in Yogyakarta spiritual life. My writing on Indonesia spiritualism is available by clicking this sentence.
Then along came Alexander the Great (356 to 323 BC). Interestingly, Aristotle educated Alex. Below seems to be the first record of teacher and pupil kicking back: Enjoying some mind-altering substance perhaps?
My Classrooms were nothing like this!
Did Alex actually listen to the finer points of Ari’s classical education? I’m not so sure as evidenced by his latter actions.
Alexander did acquire his mentor’s habit of travel, by the time he died in 323BC he had both slaughtered and conquered the known world: Fairly sure that was not Aristotle’s intention.
Julius Caesar also liked to travel, in between seducing Middle Eastern Queens, I guess. However, as I discussed in a previous Postcard – ‘Fascists and other Arseholes’, Julius’ motivation was more about plunder and destruction – Nothing to learn here!
Time Travel – The Ancient world did some positive stuff.
Surely someone in the Ancient World had a less destructive view of travel.
Well, there is one even more ancient, Ancient Greek then Aristotle, the ardent traveller Euripides(480 – 406BC). Euripides believed there was no better education then travel:
Windmill Invention? Persia 500BC – China 200BC: US 1850AD.
However, it seems the consequence of his travel was a firm belief that life was indeed a tragedy, for Euripides wrote 90 Greek Tragic Plays, all of which Time Travelled down to us.
His personal life wasn’t as successful as his professional one. Euripides was married twice, in both instances, his wives were unfaithful to him, perhaps he should have taken them on a time travel adventure. In response, and to avoid the child support, he cancelled his passport, and platinum AMEX: Living out his days in a cave in Salamis, Greece. Some cave I guess, as it was reported to contain the largest library in Ancient Greece.
Some 400 years later, Euripides inspired Seneca(04BC – 65AD), of Ancient Rome. Seneca was one of the main exponents of the school of Stoicism, which teaches that the highest goal in life is the pursuit of the four cardinal virtues, namely: Wisdom, temperance, justice, and courage. Seneca was also a great traveller:
Hot Air Ballon Invention – China 300 BC – Europe 1753 AD.
Seneca also wrote tragic plays, 9 in total and all of them Time Travelled down to us. Perhaps travel also gave Seneca a tragic view on life?
Seneca’s influence on later generations is immense, during the Renaissance he was a sage admired and venerated as an oracle of morality, a guide to how Christians could improve themselves. Our contemporary world witnesses a developing interest in the ‘ Ancient Stoic Way’ of such as Seneca: Don’t believe me? Search ‘Stoicism’ on LinkedIn. But,
Time Travel – The dark side.
In the end Seneca leaves us with a rather tragic and dark view on those who celebrate travel:
“They undertake one journey after another and change spectacle for spectacle. Ever from himself does each man flee. But what does he gain if he does not escape from himself? He ever follows himself as his own most burdensome companion. And so, understand that what we struggle with is the fault, not of the places, but of ourselves.“
Seneca
Confucius (551 – 479 BC) was a Chinese philosopher who is traditionally considered the paragon of Chinese sages. Confucius’s teachings and philosophy underpin East Asian culture and society, Time Travelling to us, and remaining influential in China and East Asia.
Confucius echoes the darkness of Seneca in suggesting:
“Though you travel, your problems will follow you, you cannot journey away from yourself”.
Confucius
Sometime before his death in 632AD, the Prophet Mohammed also turned his hand to a bit of travel blogging:
Now I immediately found this fascinating – Adding immensely to the credible benefits of travel. But then,
Consulting experts on the work of The Prophet, I discovered he never said any such thing. It’s a complete fabrication not appearing until around 1991. So, another lesson to the traveller – Travel and tourism is generally good for local economies, naturally then there is motivation for vested interests to ‘Gild the Lilly’, exaggerate, even down right lie about the great benefits of visiting their fair cities.
“East and West Shall Never Meet“.
So said Rudyard Kipling in 1889, though actually he is suggesting that neither geography, race, nor class, actually divide men when they meet face to face.
Is this actually true? In the contemporary world it’s easy to believe that the ‘East’ and the ‘West’ are separated, if no longer by travel and time, but by such issues as politics, culture, religion, and thickness of wallet. But was this always true?
Confucius seems to echo Seneca. Could ancient Eastern and Western Philosophers have known of each other, way back before 500BC? The answer is a BIG Yes.
We in our contemporary ‘sophistication’, simply assume the Ancient World was parochial – separate kingdoms swimming in their own remote fishbowls. But,
Time travel along ancient routes.
The Persian Empire had constructed a road network connecting the Middle East with Southern Europe and the Mediterranean well before 500 BC.
And all this time I thought Alexander the Great was a trail blazer riding his horse from Macedonian to Persia – Seems he simply followed the Michelin Guidebook.
The subjects of the Ancient World were great travellers as is evident from the ‘Silk Road’ map of 300BC to 100BC. Logical inference that the Ancient World was also considerably multilingual?
Well, I’m not sure trading Roman olive oil for Chinese porcelain, would have been extremely easy using hand gestures alone.
Curiously – 300 BC, who is an internationally connected trading port? SINGAPORE
So yes, it’s more than probable that Ancient Greek and Roman Philosophy, Chinese and Persian wisdom, and knowledge: Travelled in Camel Trains and Chinese Junks, alongside other assorted trade goods. Then of course the knowledge sharing interaction between travellers in the numerous inns, hotels, brothels, cafes, and shops that no doubt bounded these routes – Travelers are thirsty, hungry, and open for a great ripping yarn.
History of Travel: The Modern World
The Grand Tour, primarily associated with the British Nobility, was the 17th to early 19th Century custom of a traditional trip through Europe, with Italy as a key destination, undertaken by upper class young European men of sufficient wealth.
A time meant to broaden the young mind whilst pondering the antiquity of Europe and the former might and glory of the long-lost Roman Empire.
Did anything meaningful spring from two centuries of aristocratic grand touring?
My Hat is Definitely more Gorgeous than yours’!
I suspect a motley group of self-indulgent young men, not burdened with working for a living, achieved precisely what you would expect – Diddly Squat!
I admit my bias, since during the same period my Irish ancestors were trying to survive off small gardens of rotten potato. But at least these Dandies proved Seneca and Confucius correct in their dark warnings about the possible outcome of travel – You can’t travel away from yourself.
The end of Time Travel.
To conclude this Time Travel I’ve chosen one of my favourite authors Mark Twain(1835 -1910). Twain was a great traveller, liberal minded for his time – Worthy of being more widely read 110 years after his death.
Mark Twain arrived in Australia in 1895, having followed Robert Louis Stevenson’s directions: “Sail West and take the first turn left“. (Which is precisely what Captain Cook did when leaving New Zealand in 1769, although that left turn was promptly followed by running smack into Australia and wrecking the King’s boat.) Mark Twain was travelling big time: 13-month lecture tour taking him from America to Canada, New Zealand, Australia, India and finally England.
Twain wrote about my Country, one quote, which I guess only an Aussie could love, appreciate, and see as a positive acclamation:
“Australian history does not read like history, but like the most beautiful lies.”
Mark Twain
Did you really think my Post was anything but lies?
I had a head full of ideas on how I would conclude my ponderings on Travel, my learnings or lack off, but
I’d rather leave you with Mark Twain and Francis Scott Fitzgerald:
“So, we beat on, boats against the current, borne back ceaselessly into the past.”
F Scott Fitzgerald (Nick Carraway, narrator the Great Gatsby)
(This Postcard was written from Singapore in October 2022)
Singapore consumerism – welcome to excess. Singaporeans like to eat they also like to shop!
Fifty percent of Singaporeans consider shopping as a hobby, of which 55% are women between ages 25 and 65. 80% say they shop when they need a specific item, 45% say they do so because it makes them feel happy. I was three in 1965 when Singapore became independent. The Singapore I studied at School, was well pretty broke. 77 years have passed, I turned sixty this day. Shopping as a hobby, and to lift a mood: How is that a thing, for such a high percentage of a Country, which started at such a low base, in my own lifetime? Let’s jump back to 1965: What facilitated such change?
Leadership – The path to consumerism.
1965, Singapore had finally received the Property Deeds back from Britain, and had finalized a messy divorce with Malaysia, however Singapore was hardly rolling in cash. Lee Kuan Yu, Singapore’s first Prime Minister, a man of vision, educated in the Law and Economics: But, also deeply profoundly pragmatic. 1965, Lee acknowledged that Singapore had limited resources, but they had one: The ability of Singaporeans to work together regardless of race and creed and work extremely hard. In simple terms: Lee’s Leadership transformed Singapore. Lee had the vision, he backed his people, he ensured his Government Team was the best available in all manner of skills, Day 1 ‘ZERO’ tolerance of Corruption. The people of Singapore generally embraced and followed Lee’s Leadership.
Consumerism and Gross Domestic Product.
How can we quickly measure progress since 1965? Let’s look at the GDP of Singapore compared with Australia (Lee’s Poor White Trash of Asia), Britain (Lee’s former Landlord), and the United States. Great, what’s GPD?
Gross Domestic Product (GDP) measures a Country’s Wealth. Put simply, Assets minus Debt. So, find the loose change under the couch and the glove box, smash the kid’s piggy banks: Pay of the mortgage and all those credit cards – divide that by the number of people living in your house – That’s the GDP of your household.
Singapore’s staggering GDP growth from 1965 to 2021, is well staggering!
Lee Kuan Yu described the Leadership Values and Intent which drove this growth:
“We have had, since 1965, an undivided society, solidly behind a meritocratic system, pushing for higher standards of education, higher standards of performance, and meritocratic at every level. Instead of trying to impose Western political models on Asian realities, we sought to make autocracy respectable by leavening it with meritocracy, the rule of law and a strict intolerance for corruption to make it deliver growth.”
Lee Kuan Yu
Singapore Consumerism and Inequality.
Excellent! But has the wealth benefitted everyone?
No! It hasn’t. GDP measures national wealth, it ignores wealth distribution and inequality. Singapore displays profound financial inequality and inequity. Nothing new in this. Australia, Britain, and the US, have a similar problem of wealth accumulation at the top. However,
National wealth can also pay for public health, safe water, public infrastructure: Investment lifting the overall quality of life. Singapore has done that and shares this with Australia and Britain. Ok enough politics! What are Singaporeans spending their hard-earned wealth on?
Bucket loads of prestige and exotic cars! Significant, given it’s the world’s most expensive place to buy and own a car. Obviously, car ownership is not equitable, but then the average Singaporean has access to fast, clean, efficient, reliable public transport – Ridiculously cheap: Murah Sekali!
Singapore Consumerism – Not just exotic cars.
What are Singaporean’s buying?
Prestige goods definitely – Watches, fashion: These are big business.
Carefully feng shui-ed architecture reflects this passion, some places are aptly described as Temples of Consumerism.
Orchard Road, the prestige shopping district: Roaring, rampaging, bellowing shopping, winding up like a Lamborghini’s tachometer – quite overwhelming! As a tourist, the question is not, “Where can I buy a Rolex Watch in Singapore?” For the answer will be, ‘Which outlet, on which floor in that same outlet, in which ‘Temple of Consumerism,’ do you wish to make your purchase?’ How can one City State sustain so many outlets for Cartier and Rolex?
Consumerism and a cheap breakfast.
I was born in Wagga Wagga, 60 years ago today. Wagga is a smallish rural Town in the Australian State of New South Wales. It hosts an Aussie Airforce base, the hospital in which I was born. Let’s just say Wagga is a typical ‘Aussie Rural Town’: It’s not that exciting. Now Oxford Street, Sydney, a place I’ve walked and inhaled numerous times in a long life: Oxford Street is Australia’s prestige shopping district: A short kangaroo hop from the Sydney Opera House. Where is this going?
Ok, simply put Orchard Road makes Oxford Street look like Wagga Wagga on a Sunday afternoon!
Fortunately, though I admire any Rolex, I was only looking for breakfast. And this is part of the intangible value of Singapore: On the same floor as all this luxury bling – traditional breakfast of Malay Nasi Lemak, for $6.50 – Murah Sekali!
Orchard Road seems like the past, it’s very ‘Gordon Gekko’ 1980’s, Greed, and Desire as markers of success, ok ask your Grandad!
There are signs that contemporary Singapore Architecture is moving in line with emerging international values – Lower environmental impact, green walls, water harvesting – electronic instant connectivity.
Singapore’s new architecture is more ‘Green’ than opulent.
Singapore has not lost any of its traditional heritage precincts, take ‘Little India,’ hardly a temple of consumerism, but there is as usual eating and consuming on immense scale.
So Little India, is commercial like say Bali, Indonesia? Absolutely not? All of this display is normal business in Little India. When I shot these photos; I was obviously one of very few tourists scrambling to avoid being runover by Lamborghini and Porsche! This is sustained by local everyday business. By example, take the Aussies out of Bali, well you’re back to growing rice or serving fake vodka to arrogant Russian gangsters!
(Written in October 2022, after several introductory Postcards, I had finally started my Singapore adventure)
Finally, after much talk, I am on the ground in Singapore! It seems fitting to start where modern Singapore started, the Site where Stamford Raffles rowed ashore in 1819. So, as my old corpse is obscuring the most important part of this photograph.
Singapore let’s eat.
When I started this Postcard series, I had intended some serious ponderings, but the last two days, exhausted from travelling, I’m just eating, eating, and getting my bearings. So, food:
The classic contemporary Hawker Centre.
Food in Singapore means the ‘Hawker Centre’. Ok, what is that?
Think local takeaway or cafe, kind off. Similarity suddenly stops. Hawker Centres are communal buildings, providing accommodation to small family run businesses: Malay, Chinese, and Indian traditional fare. Food is cheap, meals are large, crowded, noisy, aromatic, fresh ingredients – Hard to describe, but US chef, author, and TV personality, Anthony Bourdain does it best:
“So, it was another day in foodie paradise. And that is Singapore’s singular danger. It is easy to get sucked in, to get used to the trivial things on your daily table — the tiny dishes of sambal or chopped red chili peppers, the soy sauce, even the moist towelettes. And once you get used to the sights, sounds, smells and tastes, there is no going back. Western food becomes eerily bland and flat. You find your soul kidnapped by the memory of condiments. If you like the idea of getting lost in Asia, Singapore is the perfect place to start“
Anthony Bourdain.
Watch Anthony Bourdain’s ‘Parts Unknown’ for yes plenty of great food, but some opinions on the ‘success’ or otherwise of modern Singapore.
Hawker Centre History.
Where did this all start? The success of Raffle’s ‘Asian Pub‘, oh he also built a Trading Port: Well, it attracted workers from all over, and workers need to be fed and these workers, well let’s say Raffles and Co, were here to make money, worker’s welfare was not a huge priority. Up stepped the Hawker:
The Original Street Hawkers. They fed Singapore’s growth.
Hawkers, rode and strode Singapore’s Streets, feeding this new workforce, with the only food they knew, the traditional cuisine of their home Countries. This started, well pretty much immediately that Raffles opened shop. By the start of World War 2, Hawking was feeding most of Singapore, but that came at a price: Street congestion, no sanitation, gangs fighting for territory, rampant serious disease. The English Colonial Government tried what colonizers often do: Stamp out the problem but give scant attention to an alternative – How to feed the working population, the engine room of Singapore’s wealth.
Fascists come and go, Colonizers return.
The Japanese Invasion of 1942 stopped the Hawkers in their tracks: There simply was no food! Besides, the Japanese also wanted plenty of not just cheap labour, free forced labour.
1946, Britain, Holland, and France – having recently crushed Italy, Japan, and Germany, for their sheer audacity in trying to take over someone else’s Countries, well these European powers have returned to business as usual: Running someone else’s Country! Britain – Singapore, Holland – Indonesia, and France – Vietnam.
It was back to business for the Singapore Hawkers as well, but the same chaos, hygiene, health issues remained despite another 19 years of authorities trying to eliminate the Hawkers.
Food becomes a resistance movement.
The crack down on Hawker Centres post WW2 came to symbolize National Identity, IE: Singapore’s struggle for self-destiny, free of European or Asian empire building. During the 1950’s Hawker Centres frequently were the subject of ‘resistance’ art:
Street Hawkers running from Security Forces.
Hawker’s scrambling in response to ‘cockatoos’ warning of an authority raid. Having now walked the Singapore’s remaining back blocks, I cannot imagine apprehending such ‘villains’ was an easy business.
Singapore commences time travel into the future.
1965, Singapore has received the property deeds back from Britain and settled an ugly messy divorce with Malaysia. Lee Quan Yu’s new Government takes a different approach to the Hawkers. Lee considers the continuation of traditional regional food critical to building the multicultural society he has in mind, but he is ever pragmatic. Street Hawking is banned full stop, but not before the creation of the ‘Hawker Centre’ in which the same Hawkers can continue business. The new Hawker Centres are structurally sound, hygienic, and well maintained. Rents are controlled, the traditional Hawkers are never pushed into profit deficit by a greedy landlord. The same policy has continued down to today. But does it work?
Well US President Joe Biden thinks so:
US President Joe Biden – Any chance of a Hot Dog?
Anthony Bourdain also thinks so:
“I come here mostly to eat because that’s what Singaporeans do here. And they arguably do it better—with more diverse, affordable food options per square foot than just about anywhere on Earth”.
Anthony Bourdain
UNESCO also thinks they work pretty well, in 2020 Hawker Culture was added to UNESCO’s List ofIntangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Seriously, I have no idea what that means, but I do know, UNESCO has not recently added my local Fish and Chip Shop or Macca’s to that list!
“Jam-packed in between the carefully feng shui-ed architecture, the skyscrapers, and office blocks are rich, deep, very old, and deliciously funky remnants of the Old World – Chinese, Indian, Malay – and a culture that still cherishes the joys of a simple, good thing.”
Anthony Bourdain
I can’t help pondering, that for a government, often accused of totalitarianism or at best a benevolent dictatorship, well the Lee Government handled the Hawker issue with sensitivity, taking something flawed, something that others had tried to destroy and made it endure – There is great Leadership on display here. Or,
Perhaps the Hawker Centre is simply an excellent place to eat?
(This Postcard was written in September 2022, prior to commencing my October 2022 adventure in Singapore)
In October 2023 I am commencing an Adventure in Singapore. In preparation a little time travel, let’s briefly discuss a short history of Singapore. “You can’t really know a person until you get in their shoes and walk around in them,” so saidAtticus Finch in ‘To Kill a Mockingbird’. So, in regard Singapore’s Lee Kuan Yu, Prime Minister 1959 to 1990: Since I will soon literally be walking in his footsteps, well I thought it smart to put on his shoes.
Let’s start with what I know:
Young Mr. Lee Kuan Yu.
Lee Kuan Yu was born in British Empire, Singapore 1923. Pondering the young Lee, I reflect that all people start as a child – If the adult becomes brilliant, average, a force for good or evil, or time travels through history: We all start as a simple innocent child. Life changes us, our past makes our future or can do: Time travel (click this link to understand my view on time travel)! Ok, I’m stalling, what do I really know? Not much:
Lee, like my dad was alive when the invincible British Singapore fortress fell to the Japanese in oh, about 1 week. Lee lived it up close and personal, my dad, just like so many Aussies, just felt the fear of Japanese Invasion from afar.
Making of Singapore.
Lee, made Singapore, how? I’m very sketchy on the details.
Lee frequently had people flogged for chewing gum and dropping rubbish: I recall very well the West’s shock. Australian’s recoiled, we might be trash, but public floggings: How backward was this Lee character? Seems, we had long forgotten Britain, actually sent its ‘white trash’ Down Under, for petty crimes: Aussie authorities had a flogging penchant right up to 1958, when shock and horror Lee was alive. And that’s about all I know! What shaped him?
Time Travel with Mr. Lee Kuan Yu.
Lee was Cambridge educated, 1950 admitted as a Barrister. So, it seems he was a proper part of the Established British Empire. Whereas Ho Chi Minh, Uncle Ho to his mates, leader of the Vietnamese Communist Party: Well, the best the French and the United States could do for him were menial café jobs. It seems Lee understood the British, so when he, in his best Cambridge English, politely asked them to leave, well they actually did. It took over 100,000 dead French and US boys, and well over 2 Million Vietnamese: For those Western powers to say, Ok Uncle Ho, you can have your Country back.
Jumping to Feb 1942: Singapore has fallen to the Japanese. 80,000 British, Australian, and other Commonwealth troop, marched off to build Japan’s Death Railway, try and stay alive – 40% did not. Lee was arrested, mainly because he was educated and Chinese. Randomly separated into two groups, Lee’s group worked for Japan as British Intelligence Officers: The others were shot and fed to Singapore crabs. Perhaps another example suggesting that some people are just destined to be greater than crab poo. So,
Singapore, no bullying policy.
Lee witnessed all of this; it shaped his future. In 1961 Lee issued a public radio address and stated:
“I emerged from the war, determined that no one, neither Japanese nor British—had the right to push and kick Singapore around, we could govern ourselves”.
Lee Kuan Yu
Singapore became an independent State on 3 June 1959. A brief merger with Malaysia followed racial and economic conflict broke the marriage. In August 1965, the Republic of Singapore we know today emerged.
Singapore, successful time travel.
In 77 years, Singapore went from in Lee’s words: “Third World to First World”. Just how much of the Singapore we know, reflects Lee’s values? In 1974, Lee promoted water recycling – by 2015, Singapore achieved permanent water self-sufficiency. Although Singapore is very wet, that’s foresight many Countries would be envious of. Singapore in 1965 was illiterate, squalid housing, limited health care – Lee established world class education, health care, with 90% house ownership through public finance. So, yes today’s Singapore has emerged to Lee’s vision. Ok, so where’s the downside?
Singapore a flawed democracy.
The West has frequently criticized Lee’s authoritarian rule. Only in recent times has the Government included substantial representations of Parties other than Lee’s. But voting is open and free: Not surprisingly, Lee’s party receives more than 80% of the Vote. So, Benevolent Dictatorship it may well have been in its turbulent birth years: But it seems it’s a benevolence most Singaporeans freely vote for. However, Singapore is now considered a ‘flawed democracy,’ Lee’s party just can’t let go of control of journalism, elections, and the court room.
Singapore has at least one essential democratic issue in common with its ‘white trash’ neighbours: Both Singapore and Australia have compulsory mandated voting. But, whereas Australia rates number 13 in the International Democracy Index, Singapore is way down at 86. Some context to this Index – New Zealand 8, US 36, Ukraine 92, Russia 144.
Singapore, time travel and a serious destination.
In 1965, 100,000 tourists visited Singapore, in 2019 2.75 Million. In 24 hours, Lizzie and I will increase that number by two!
Young Mr. Lee, you created a serious Journey destination. (click this link to gain an insight into what I love about Singapore.)
(This Postcard was written in September 2022, from Australia whilst preparing for my adventure to Singapore. I had only just started writing and admit to having little if any idea what I would say, how to start, or even if I could.)
Firstly, my apology: My Postcard Number 1 introduced my intent to write about my upcoming Journey to Singapore. Since then, 6 Postcards, no Singapore. Just, distractions, crossroads, sidetracks, and lame dabbling in some form of written Stand-Up Comedy. Ok, I admit I’ve been delaying, I have absolutely no idea what a Travel Blog is, let alone how to write one! So, how about I document what I know off Singapore? While I’m about it might even do a little time travelling to reinforce my knowledge.
Sir Stamford Raffles – Colonizing Hero or Self-seeking villain?
Sir Stamford Raffles arrives.
Stamford Raffles rowed his pinnace ashore in Feb 1819, founding Singapore. With a ‘chilly bin’ full of Guinness he started a Pub, it became the internationally famous Raffles Hotel. A deck hand press ganged in Hong Kong, being of cultured upbringing, did not like drinking without food. Try these Singapore Noodles! Stamford’s French Chef, abhorred Guinness, saying: “Labière anglaise a le goût de la merde“, Aussie English translation meaning kinda: “English beer looks and tastes like something me bluey passed“: Try this Singapore Sling.
I first visited ‘Raffles Pub’ in 1986. It was somewhat run down and scruffy, rather rakish, and charming. Not very posh and none to selective about clientele, after all they let me drink in the main bar.
Singapore loves its Colonial Heritage.
Now ‘Raffles Pub’ is top shelf all the way. I took these photos a few nights back. Wet through, and rung out from walking Singapore: Well, I could not get in! Besides, $35 for a Singapore Sling, well that’s not really my cup of tea!
Without question ‘Raffles Singapore’ is the finest of the colonial architecture of Singapore, says a lot, because though the Singaporeans, were keen to see the British return to Europe, the Singaporean’s have spent considerable wealth maintaining the architectural heritage that remains in consequence of the British Empire.
Singapore, how did we get here?
Ok, that’s about my limit of knowledge on Singapore, other than:
The Singaporeans were mighty pissed in 1942, when Britain’s unconquerable armoured gunned fortress, fell quickly to Japan. The Japanese plan was really complicated: Let’s knick a pile of pushies from China, then ride down into Singapore from the opposite side of all those British guns. The British Commonwealth were dismally badly prepared for World War 2. One of many strategic failures was to underestimate the grit, tenacity and creativity of Japan. I suspect racism and bigotry played no small part in that.
In the 1950’s Singapore asked the British to go home. Unlike the French response to Vietnam’s similar request, surprisingly they actually did. Perhaps they remembered Publican Stamford’s advice:
“Better to walk out of a Pub Brawl, then been thrown out“.
Sir Stamford Raffles.
Singapore managed communism with just a little slaughter and mayhem, well by Vietnamese and Indonesian standards.
Singapore’s Prime Minister, Lee Kuan Yew, warned Australia in 1980, “You will become the poor white trash of Asia‘. Very surprisingly, Australia’s Prime Minister Bob Hawke agreed with him.
Singapore, myths, ripping yarns and lies.
So, all of my extensive knowledge is true, or perhaps not?
in Feb 1819, Stamford did indeed establish the Singapore we know. A little time travel to 0135BC finds Claudius Ptolemy, a Roman Geographer, writing of the existence of the geographic place we know as Singapore. Which, introduces another of my pondering obsessions: Just how much knowledge of the Ancient World has been lost? More so given in 1776, British Captain James Cook, after several weeks Rugby Touring in New Zealand, literally ran into an unknown Australia! An Island 10,700 times bigger than Singapore.
The Buddhist Kingdom of Sumatra actually founded Singapura in 1250. Singapura means ‘Lion City’ in Sanskrit. Remaining the National Symbol today. Genghis Kahn, obsessed about time travel, also had a penchant for ‘Duty Free,’ establishing a Singapore trade mission in 1320. Singapore is hence the oldest location where a thriving Chinese community existed outside China.
1613, the Portuguese destroyed Singapore. Why? Perhaps the sailors were thirsty, and no one loves A Pub with No Beer. Indeed, their time travel was 200 years too early. Singapore sank into obscurity until Stamford decided, what a great place to build a pub!
Cocktails, noodles and other truths.
Singapore Noodles, well they are actually ‘Hong Kong Noodles,’ created by Hong Kong chefs in 1955 to add a little panache, to oh so common stir-fried noodles. Perhaps, Singapore had already established its position as an Asian food paradise for international travellers.
Stamford’s pub did indeed create the ‘Singapore Sling,’ but in 1915. Bartender Ngiam Tong Biam, an empathetic soul, realised some ladies, actually like a serious drink, but walking around in those high heels and silk sarong kebaya, carrying a double scotch was, well not very lady like. But a pink coloured drink, with fruit and an umbrella: Who could possibly know it has 3 times the boot of Stamford’s Guinness!
The value of Travel.
I have to catch the post now, so, why did the British leave so willingly? Can wait for another Postcard.
“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow mindedness.” So wrote Mark Twain in 1880, and it’s true. In our troubled international times, and abundance of open mindedness would surely be a positive attribute in all society.
Travel is excellent, even more inspiring when you actual know something about your destination.
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Welcome to Postcards from Downunder. My ponderings on travel, and all manner of human activity, all presented with a historical context.
