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Churchill never said this – Work of other Lying Bastards.
Sir Winston Leonard Spencer Churchill famously said, “Truth is often the first casualty of war“. Hard to argue with that. But, rather ironically, he never said any such thing. This post is loosely about the lies that pervade our lives and surround us. It is easy to state that social media has made it worse. Lying in war, and propaganda for military or political purposes, has always been part of human history. For example, Ancient Roman General Julius Caesar, left us substantial war diaries. Fascinating reading, but they contain mostly lies: the political self-seeking propaganda of its day. I discussed Julius in my previous, ‘Destruction, Lust, Philosophers, Fascists, and Arseholes‘, available by following this link.
My story is based on several hours only. The morning of 1st October 1918, in the Syrian village of Damascus. Events that still resound and echo to this day. There are only two main characters in my story. The famous Lawrence of Arabia, and the totally unknown Australian Lighthorse Officer, Major Arthur Charles Niquet Olden.
Thomas Edward Lawrence – Author and Hollywood Action Star.
1 October 1918, Lawrence and his Arab irregular forces fought their way into and liberated Damascus. Thomas described it all in his autobiography, ‘Seven Pillars of Wisdom‘.
Lawrence emersed himself in Arab culture.
A Hollywood block buster movie tells the same story. It’s a great ripping yarn. Action, violence, panoramic scenes of glory, history and epic calvary charges complete with Arabic scimitar.
The Hollywood Blockbuster. Lawrence and many of his cavalry charges?
Who was Thomas Edward Lawrence?
Lawrence in Army Dress Uniform.
Thomas Edward Lawrence was a British archeologist, army officer, diplomat and author who became renowned for his role in the World War 1 Palestine Campaign, 1915-1918. Lawrence most famously created guerilla forces from largely nomadic Arab desert tribes. With the support, logistics and substantial funding from Britain, his forces contributed to victory.
A difficult relationship with truth.
Thomas’ birth circumstances gave him a complex relationship with the truth. He was actually born a bastard. His father an English/Irish aristocrat, his mother, the live in teaching governess to his Baron father. His father abandoned his first family and lived the remainder of his life with his mother. They had five children together. Seeking anonymity, they adopted ‘Lawrence‘ as a surname. Lawrence was the name of the family, Thomas’ grandmother worked for, when outside of marriage, she gave birth to his mother.
While six-foot, three-inch Peter O’Toole cut a towering figure as the lead in the 1962 blockbuster ‘Lawrence of Arabia’, the real Lawrence was only five feet, five inches tall (165CM). His small stature disguised a driven personality of quite extraordinary physical endurance. Lawrence had an ability to live with, and ride alongside Arabic nomadic bands who were born mobile in the desert.
In 1914, the British military has employed Lawrence on an archaeological expedition of the Sinai Peninsula. A research trip that was actually a cover for a secret military survey of territory possessed by the Ottoman Turks. Once World War I began, Lawrence joined the British military as an intelligence officer in Cairo. He worked a desk job for nearly two years before being sent to Arabia in 1916 where, in spite of his nonexistent military training, he helped to lead battlefield expeditions and dangerous missions behind enemy lines.
On 13 May 1935, Lawrence was fatally injured in a motorcycle accident, he was 46.
Australian Lighthorse Officer, Major Arthur Olden.
Major Arthur Olden – Australian Lighthorse.
Major Arthur Charles Niquet Olden, was a registered Australian dentist prior to World War 1. He joined the West Australian Mounted Infantry, Australian Military Forces, as a second lieutenant in January 1913. In 1924 he went to the Reserve Officer List and practiced the dangerous life of a suburban dentist.
Arthur landed at Gallipoli on 20 May 1915. He was subsequently twice wounded. One of these probably saved his life. Whilst recovering from this second wound in August 1915 Gallipoli, 600 Australian Light Horseman conducted a bayonet attack on the Turkish line in the infamous ‘Nek Battle‘. Within five minutes 400 Lighthorseman are dead, others terribly wounded. Arthur suffered what we would call ‘survivor’s guilt‘, which may explain his performance in Palestine – His way of honouring the boys he lost. The ‘Nek Battle’ is one of the greatest tragedies of Australian history, nevertheless it’s a compelling read. A detailed account is available by clicking this link.
In September 1918, when the 10th Lighthorse led the Australian Mounted Division in ‘The Great Ride‘ to encircle the Turkish armies in Sharon and Samaria, Major Olden was in command as temporary lieutenant-colonel. His cavalry work, like his earlier mounted infantry exploits, showed a fine balance of dash and caution. Olden captured the Syrian town of Jenin with a splendid charge by 500 Aussie Troopers and captured 8107 prisoners and five field-guns. Major Olden was awarded the Distinguished Service Order.
Death of a largely unknown Aussie Hero.
He died of hypertensive vascular disease on 5 October 1949, he was 68.
Lawrence of Arabia – What a lying bastard!
On the evening of 30 September 1918, Lawrence was wandering the British lines outside the besieged Damascus. He can’t sleep, he never slept much. The British have promised that Lawrence and his Arabic forces will in the morning take Damascus. Can they, do it? It’s the culmination of the strategy they have worked on for years. The first step in ensuring Arab independence from the Ottoman Empire. As for the British, we will deal with them latter. See the lies are already starting to be exposed.
And what of these Australians? War is just sport to them. Will they take Damascus, just because they no doubt can? What if the Arabs fail and the Lighthorse become the liberators, our strategy in ruins.
Lawrence knows well my Countryman. It was indeed the Australian Lighthorse’s audaciously successful charge and storming of Beersheba, a year previously, that has started the collapse of the Ottomans. Now the Australian’s are everywhere, clowning around as usually. I don’t think this lying bastard thought much of these men from Downunder who had sacrificed so much so far in this War:
“These Australians, shouldering me in unceremonious horseplay, put off half our civilization. They were dominant to-night, too sure of themselves to be careful: and yet: as they lazily swaggered those quick bodies, all curves with never a straight line, but with old and disillusioned eyes: and yet: I felt them thin-tempered, hollow, instinctive; always going to do great things; with the disquieting suppleness of blades half-drawn from the scabbard. Disquieting!”
Thomas Edward Lawrence. Seven Pillars of Wisdom.
Every Bastard is Lying.
Thomas Edward Lawrence, better known as ‘Lawrence of Arabia’, well he could bull shit with the best of them. His book is frequently self-seeking camel shit. More irony, given the books title, ‘The Seven Pillars of Wisdom‘. There must have been something in the Middle East water, because everyone was lying. The British Government led Lawrence’s Arab force, to believe they would receive independence in return for helping to destroy the Ottoman Empire.
Lawrence used this concept, and liberal doses of British gold sovereigns, to build his guerilla forces. However, previously in 1916, Britain and France created the ‘Sykes–Picot Agreement‘ to mutually carve up and occupy the former Ottoman Empire, no mention of Arab independence. Lawrence actually knew the factual intent, obviously kept it from his Arab leadership.
So, what actually happened in Damascus on 1 October 1918? The Australian Light Horse happened!
‘Up rides a Trooper mounted on his…’, well many troopers mounted on mongrel Aussie Walers.
British forces had Damascus more or less surrounded, but German and Turkish forces are escaping via an unblocked road to Aleppo. Major Arthur Charles Niquet Olden was ordered to ride around Damascus and block the retreat. The going is tough, and the horses are exhausted. He adopts the simple expedient of cantering his detachment through the centre of Damascus. Calvary swords and bayonets held high and flashing sharply in the sun. The horses steel shoes striking sparks of the ancient pavements. It’s a gamble, but they punt their audaciousness.
Australian Lighthorse enter Damascus, 1st October 1918.
Major Olden knows the German and Turkish forces have been withdrawing, but many are still here. Certainly, senior German and Turkish Officers, have long since skedaddled. They had acted similarly last year at Beersheba, upon realizing that these Aussie Lighthorseman really were going to cavalry charge the cannon and machine guns of that town’s defense. But the Australian’s respect the Turkish soldier, they know even an abandoned rear guard is capable of vicious resistance. I’m thinking about now the good Major was questioning his own audacious plan.
Investigating a large crowd outside the Hall of Government, Major Olden dismounts and with two officers, .45 Revolvers in one hand, cavalry swords in the other they gingerly enter. His troopers remain outside and are so concerned they brew up!
Ok, whilst the Skipper does Officer Stuff – Time for a brew!
What was the Skipper’s Officer Business?
Major Olden and his two officers enter an imposing Town Hall, up a grand two century old staircase. They enter a richly decorated room, pistols cocked, swords raised, they encounter a room full of dignitaries in fabulous uniforms, suits, ties, and traditional head dress.
Damascus’ Dignitaries are surprised when three dusty, dirty, armed Aussies walked in!
Expecting someone else, thinks Major Olden? Indeed, perhaps they were expecting Lawrence and his Arab forces. Regardless the mood changes quickly to welcoming these ‘British’ officers. Perhaps they actually wanted British liberators in preference to Lawrence and Co? Lawrence always exaggerated the extent of Arabic unity. Yes, Arab self-determination and independence provided a promise of unification, but everyone has separate interests and loyalties – Everyone was a lying bastard!
Or perhaps the dignitaries simply looked out the window and observed Major Olden’s support cast. Thirty of the toughest soldiers in the Palestine combat zone. Battle hardened troopers who had been through hell and would keep going – And I’m only speaking of the Lighthorse Walers, the mongrel Aussie warhorse!
Major Olden edits a speech and changes historic paperwork.
The Ottoman appointed Govenor of Damascus, Emir Said, grandson of the Sultan of Algiers, approaches Olden and commences a flowery speech in Arabic, to which the Major responds:
“The British will be here soon; it is to them you should make such speeches. They love that kind of thing. I’m an Australian”
Major Arthur Charles Niquet Olden. 1st October 1918. Damascus.
Having received his first lesson in the laconic culture of these strange lads from Downunder, the Govenor bows and presents a pre-written surrender document. Olden will accept the surrender, but insists the document is changed. History will now and forever record that Damascus actually surrendered to the Australians of the 10th Lighthorse Regiment. Upon seeing this document, Lawrence grinds his teeth in despair. There is never just a humble dentist when you need one! Disruption of Lawrences’ strategy! Disruption is a constant theme in history. You can read my Post on Disruption by following this link.
Olden and his officers, pistols now holstered, swords sheathed, return to their troopers. Showing them the surrender document, he says:
“I’m in the line of Rameses of Egypt, Alexander the Great, and Napoleon of France.”
Major Arthur Charles Niquet Olden. 1st October 1918. Damascus.
Troopers cheer, Walers whinny, but also stamp their hooves. A reminder to the human troopers, enough shenanigans, we have work to do! They simply ride off to complete their actual mission. As an Australian, it’s hard not to love the Aussie War Horse of WW1, the Waler. Iv’e previously written about them. You can follow this link to discover one of the greatest, Bill the Bastard.
Where is Lawrence of Arabia? Perhaps his Rolls Royce broke down?
What were the conditions like as Major Olden commenced his audacious move through Damascus? Well, the streets are deserted, markets closed, Turkish rearguard forces still very much in dominance. At one point the small detachment encounters a Turkish regiment, hunkered down in their barracks. Rifle fire cracks past the heads of Aussie troopers. And the Australian response? As it always was since Beersheba, swords drawn, forward at the gallop, Charge!
Henry Gullet, A Lighthorse trooper present that morning, describes, the Turkish response:
“For a moment the enemy decision was in the balance. But the sight of the great Australian horses at the gallop, flashing swords, and the ring of horseshoes, turned the scale.”
Henry Gullet. 10th Lighthorse Regiment.
As Major Olden trots forward to his date with history, other Australian forces enter Damascus. There is no more shooting, well if you exclude the local Arabs who are now expressing their joy by blazing away at the heavens. Yes, Lawrence does arrive some hours later in a Rolls Royce. By which time Australian forces have secured thousands of prisoners and controlled Damascus. There is little if any fighting, as the brave Turkish rear guard, having watched their officers previously skedaddle, have had more than enough.
Damascus opens like a flower. Markets spring open for business; we know these Australians are a hungry and ‘thirsty’ lot! Australian troopers are sprayed from balconies with champagne, perfumes, flowers and confetti. As Major Olden leads his contingent out of Damascus, the greatest risk is being hit by a rose petal, or perhaps puffing on the strong Turkish cigars that rain down upon them.
Damascus, 1st Oct 1918 – Liberation after 400 years of Ottoman Empire.
Lawrence Arrives -The Lying Bastards go to work.
We found Lawrence on the evening of 30 September 1918, outside Damascus, he is being manhandled by dominating, thin-tempered, and disquieting Australian Lighthorse troopers. His mind is on the 4,000 Rualla tribesman he had that night sent into Damascus. Thomas describes their function in ‘Seven Pillars of Wisdom’ – To prepare the political way for Lawrence’s arrival in the morning. This is complete bullshit, more of Lawrence being a lying bastard!
British forces have Palestine blockaded. Unless off course they are using the northern road from Aleppo. In which case they would be moving against the desperate retreat of German and Turkish forces. 4,000 tribesman is a huge number to simply be overlooked. It’s also a very big number of ‘diplomats’ to be sent on what Lawrence himself describes as something like a fifth column political operation. No fighting occurred in Damascus on this evening, though certainly the Ottoman forces were still in command, if ever increasingly reluctantly.
We have a reliable source to disapprove Lawrence’s claim. General Sir Henry George Chauvel, commander of the Australian Lighthorse, was himself present that evening and said:
“If any of Lawrence’s forces entered that night, they were unrecognizable to us. I am personally of the opinion that the first Arab forces followed Lawrence in the next day. By which time Lighthorse elements had taken the surrender off, and an entire Brigade had passed right through Damascus.”
General Sir Henry George Chauvel. Letter to the Director Australian War Memorial 1936.
October 1st, 1918 – Damascus. Lawrence ‘fights’ his way in.
Damascus was ‘liberated’ from the seat of an open roofed Rolls Royce.
Lawrence spent much time driving around in this particular Rolls Royce, his own personal vehicle that he had ‘liberated’ in Cairo. In ‘Seven Pillars‘ he is also frequently an occupant of one of several British armoured cars. None of that should hide the fact that he showed great courage and endurance on his many horse and camel mounted exploits behind Ottoman lines, blowing trains and bridges. However, no such reliance on vehicle transport is portrayed in the Hollywood movie that carries his name. Lawrence is more frequently to be shown leading great cavalry charges and wielding a scimitar – Such things never happened. Hang on! Someone did such things – The Australian Lighthorse.
‘Seven Pillars’, describes the reception Thomas experienced as he ‘marched’ into Damascus, hours after Major Olden’s Lighthorse visit, and seemingly unaware of events of that morning:
“When we came in there had been some miles of people greeting us, now there were thousands for every hundred then. Every man, woman and child in this city of a quarter-million souls seemed in the streets, waiting only the spark of our appearance to ignite their spirits. Damascus went mad with joy. The men tossed up their tar-bushes to cheer, the women tore off their veils. Householders threw flowers, hangings, carpets, into the road before us: their wives leaned, screaming with laughter, through the lattices and splashed us with bath-dippers of scent.”
Thomas Edward Lawrence. ‘Seven Pillars of Wisdom’. 1926.
Lawrence clearly presented the reception as a response to the arrival and ‘liberation’ of Damascus by his forces, we now know different. In consequence of the official Australian War Record, it’s reasonable to say that lying bastards really got to work!
Lawrence the Liberator – Well he immediately starts a brawl!
Lawrence eventually arrived at the Town Hall, the scene of Major Olden’s historic actions that morning. However, this time there would be no gracious bows, no attempt at speeches. Lawrence describes what happened immediately upon his arrival:
“In the cleared space were Auda abu Tayi and Sultan el Atrash, chief of the Druses, tearing at one another. Their followers bounded forward, while I jumped in to drive them apart; crashing upon Mohammed el Dheilan, filled with the same purpose.
Auda was too blind with rage to be fairly conscious. We got him into the great state-hall of the building; an immense, pompous, gilded room, quiet as the grave, since all doors but ours were locked. We pushed him into a chair and held him, while in his fits he foamed and shouted till his voice cracked, his body twitching and jerking, arms lunging wildly at any weapon within reach, his face swollen with blood, bareheaded, the long hair streaming over his eyes.”
Lawrence of Arabia. 1st October 1918. Damascus.
By comparison the surrender of Damascus to Major Arthur Charles Niquet Olden, and his Australian Lighthorse was a civilized affair. And Lawrence called my Countryman ‘Thin-tempered”!
Conclusion to Lying Bastards:
This is the end of my story, a few hours in world history. However, the lying bastards were just getting started. All along Lawrence had been working with Faisal I bin Al-Hussein bin Ali Al-Hashemi, the son of The Sharif of Mecca. Faisal desired to be King of all we would think of as Palestine, Israel, Lebanon and Syria. Faisal had been double dealing with the British and the Ottomans throughout the Great War. As late as March 1918, when Germany’s Summer Offensive smashed the Allied Front in France, Faisal had accepted an offer from the Ottomans and Germany to rule as their vassal. The Summer Offensive failed! Besides, Germany and the Ottomans were lying to Faisal – Who would have thought!
By 4th October 1918, Faisal and Lawrence have dispensed with the Ottoman appointed Govenor of Damascus, Emir Said. They know well that the Algerian Empire also has been lying as it eyes the Damascus prize. Faisal finally reigns as he desires. With Lawrence’s assistance he commences to consolidate his Kingdom by diplomacy with France and Britain. Diplomacy is obviously a diplomatic description of self-seeking men meeting and pretending they are not all lying bastards. All goes well until it doesn’t! On 24 July 1920, the French destroy Faisal’s forces in the Battle of Maysalun and Faisal is expelled from Syria.
On 23 August 1921, the British Government make Faisal the King of the newly created Iraq. Hard to believe, but the British are swayed by the arguments of no other than Lawrence of Arabia! King Faisal reigns until his death by heart attack on 8 September 1933, he is 48 years old.
Remember on the evening of 30 September 1918, Lawrence was wandering the British lines outside the besieged Damascus? Complaining of the dominating, cocksure Lighthorseman, and their lazy swaggering quick bodies, and disillusioned eyes. Seems he had time for a rum or three with Australian Lighthorse General Sir Henry George Chauvel. Chauvel asked Lawrence, “How do you and Faisal propose to govern with this mob of Arab Guerillas?
Lawrence simply replies:
“Shoot them for all I care, we don’t need them anymore”!
Thomas Edward Lawrence. 30 September 1918. Damascus.
So, the point of my story?
To end with something Winnie actually said:
Sir Winston Churchill and the power of Lying Bastards.
Australian General Sir John Monash watches defeat:
French village of Le Hamel, World War 1. This is a story of defeat, despair, slaughter, setback and one clever Australian Bastard, General John Monash, who changed the course of the War. 21st March 1918, the Western Front France. Germany’s Spring Offensive commences. By close of day 20,000 British troops are dead, and 35,000 wounded. By the end of day two, the British 5th Army is in retreat. German General Erich Ludendorff launched his last role of the dice, committed all remaining resources into pushing Britain back into the sea, leaving France no choice but surrender. The Allies lost nearly 255,000 men (British, British Empire and French).
The intent of this article.
I’m going to discuss the following interrelated subjects: the Battle of Le Hamel, combined arms warfare, and the Australian General Sir John Monash. Yes, I will, where relevant, present the historical context. But this is not a Post about history as such. These are certainly interesting subjects, and I will provide links to articles I found informative. This article about the Battle of Le Hamel is a good start. So, what is my writing intent?
My intent is to explore how General Monash used existing weapons systems, but in creative new ways. How he advanced the theory and practice of combined arms warfare. How his planning and teamwork excelled previous processes. And also, his psychological understanding of his troops, his adored Aussie Diggers of the Australian Imperial Force.
And finally, I am briefly looking to draw historical lessons that may provide some insights into the future of the Ukraine conflict.
Retreat! It’s over, have we have failed?
After four years of slaughter and sacrifice, the Allies were going backward.
The German Spring Offensive artillery bombardment began at 4.40am on March 21. The bombardment hit targets over an area of 150 square miles (390 km2), the biggest barrage of the entire war. Allied troops receive 1,100,000 high explosive and gas shells in five hours. This will not be matched until the Russian attack on Berlin in 1945. So, an Army in retreat is finished? Not necessarily, it depends on issues such as morale, leadership and immediate planning.
The allies may have been in retreat, but they held – Just!
There is an immediate parallel in Ukraine. Ukraine has been fighting for three years. Their summer offensive of 2023, failed to obtain the forward momentum Ukraine and its supporting Nations hoped for. With United States support faltering, despite European ongoing efforts to increase theirs, Ukraine finds themselves much like the Allies in March 1918.
Scotts retreat in good order. The Spring Offensive failed.
Retreat? – Nuts! It isn’t over till it’s over.
Allied forces will be shocked and shattered on the 21st of March 1918. But then leadership and teamwork kicked in. The retreat had generally been in good order. Small arms and heavy weapons were pulled back, alongside the exhausted but increasingly stiffening and determined troops. Additionally, the United States would soon enter the war, fresh new troops in the hundreds of thousands were arriving.
By comparison German ability to find new troops was close to expended. The Spring Offensive may have gone forward, but at shocking cost in men, and equipment, none of which was easily replaceable. German troop losses were 239,000 men, many of them specialist shock troops who were irreplaceable. Shock troops created by taking the best, strongest, most experienced troops from other units. With such troops destroyed, Germany’s remaining units are largely composed of demoralized and exhausted old men, 18-year-old boys and the previously crippled and lame.
Allied troops also had the advantage of retreating back through country they knew; they had been here before. Back to previously prepared defensive positions. Their supply lines grew shorter and more reliable with abundant United States food, fuel, weapons, and machinery. Putin would do himself a favour and reflect on these typical issues when those you attack retreat.
The Spring Offensive Stalls.
In terms of morale, the initial German jubilation at the successful opening of the offensive soon turned to disappointment, as it became clear that the attack had not achieved decisive results. The German advance was through unfamiliar country. Land devastated by their own artillery. (Sound familiar Mr. Putin?) Supply lines grew longer. And actual food and weapons supplies to bring forward increasingly lacking. It was not only the German soldier who was hungry, their horses were equally worn out. Yes, the German Army of WW1 was not the mechanized instrument we recognize today. If you wanted food and ammunition, old Brandenburger had to haul it to you – Assuming someone didn’t eat him on the way!
German horse drawn artillery – WW1 was not mechanized.
General John Monash strikes back.
4th July 1918, Le Hamel France. German soldiers panic, with approaching British tanks, they leap unarmed from trenches, raise their hands, prepare to have their property ransacked by the rampaging Australian Infantry. Many already have their watches off, prepared to hand these to smirking, smoking, and aggressive Aussie Diggers. As Winston Churchill would later say:
“I love a man who smirks whilst he fights”.
Winston Churchill
Australian Diggers could still smirk during the Battle of Le Hamel.
As General Rommel would later say, “Only these bloody Australians steal whilst they fight”. The Australian digger of World War 1 was notoriously vicious in combat but usually friendly and caring to opponents when they surrendered. Well, after they had relieved them of their watches and ‘souvenirs’. Australians were the primary infantry at the Battle of Le Hamel, though for the first time in the War, American forces took part. My Countrymen of WW1, justifiably stand front and centre in the Aussie National Myth. I explore such myths at this link.
ANZACDiggers after the Battle of Le Hamel – Posing with knicked Souvenirs.
A tale of two Generals – One lost in past wars, the other just knew how to do stuff.
The German high command is as wild as a hessian bag full of kittens, they have just been informed all the gains of the Spring Offensive are lost. And indeed, Australian forces have runover and recaptured Le Hamel, German General Erich Ludendorff screams, “Der schwarze Tag!” – The Black Day of the German Army.
German General Erich Ludendorff – Not happy at these audacious Aussies.
So, what happened in these 3 months 21st March 1918 to 4th July 1918? Australian General Sir John Monash happened!
The Australian War Memorial has short biography of Sir John, linked here.
Australian General Sir John Monash
General John Monash has a Plan.
John Monash had been seeing slaughter since going ashore at Gallipoli in 1915. In August 1915 Gallipoli, 600 Australian Light Horseman conducted a bayonet attack on the Turkish line in the infamous ‘Nek Battle’. They attacked in three waves minutes apart. They only needed to run 20 metres to get at the Turks. But a failed artillery bombardment left them exposed. The first wave will run to their slaughter. So, they sent the second, and the third, they too are mown down. My Grandfathers generation suffered 400 dead in minutes, not one Turk was injured. Turkish troops were heard to yell, ‘Don’t come, stop!”
1915 ‘The Nek Battle’, Gallipoli – General John Monash said, “Never Again”!
With such motivations, General Monash adopted the principle, “Infantry should not have to fight their way forward on their own”. We would recognise this as a ‘Combined Arms Offensive’.
One clever Aussie Bastard, who swam against the tide of military thinking.
Sir John’s development and refinement of what we would now call ‘Combined Arms’, contributed to the conclusion of WW1. He described his view of his precious Australian Infantry:
“The true role of infantry was not to expend itself upon heroic physical effort, not to wither away under merciless machine-gun fire, not to impale itself on hostile bayonets. On the contrary, it was to advance under the maximum possible protection of an array of mechanical resources: Artillery, machine-guns, tanks, mortars, and aeroplanes. The goal was to advance with as little impediment as possible, relieving them of the obligation to fight their way forward.”
Australian General Sir John Monash, 1919.
Combined Arms – A concept as old as Alexander the Great.
Combined arms hit the enemy with two or more arms simultaneously in such a manner that the actions he must take to defend himself from one make him more vulnerable to another. In the case of Le Hamel, General Monash’s plan combined aircraft, tanks, artillery, and his beloved Australian Infantry. However, combined arms as a concept existed in the Ancient World, for instance.
Phillip II of Macedon (390BC), Alexander the Greats father, combined the Macedonian phalanx with heavy cavalry and other forces. The phalanx would hold the opposing line in place, until the heavy cavalry could smash and break the enemy line by achieving local superiority.
Alexander the Great – Macedonian Combined Arms.Infantry, Cavalry and Artillery (archers).
Combined Arms Norman Tactics changed British History.
At the Battle of Hastings (1066AD) British infantry fighting from behind a shield wall were defeated by a Norman army consisting of archers, infantry, and cavalry. One of the tactics used by the Normans was to tempt the English to leave the shield wall to attack retreating Norman infantry only to destroy them in the open with cavalry under a creeping barrage put up by Norman Archers.
Battle of Hastings (1066AD) – Norman cavalry slaughter the British Infantry in the open.
The concept of Combined Arms time travelled down to us. This ability of historical fact and concept, to travel across time and place, is but one reason I find history so fascinating. I explain my views on Time Travel and history at this link.
General John Monash certainly did not invent the Combined Arms concept, so what did he do?
General Sir John Monash’s contribution:
By July 1918 the Australian and New Zealanders (ANZAC) forces were fighting as their own units, under command of their own officers. The much-promoted John Monash was now in control at Le Hamel. This change came in consequence of events such as the Gallipoli Battle of the Nek. Previously ANZAC forces were subjugated to British control. The lads from Downunder didn’t like the results!
Some of the combined arm’s tactics employed at Le Hamel had been practiced before. There was nothing new about tanks or creeping artillery barrages. The Allies and indeed Germany and Turkey were trying all manner of innovations to get this war done. Admitting my Aussie bias, history seems to prove that John Monash’s contribution is indeed:
The extent and quality of coordination, planning and control of combined arms assets;
The training implemented in building teamwork between British tanks and Aussie infantry;
Reserve tanks will carry ammunition and supplies forward, and return with the wounded; and
The dropping of ammunition by aircraft.
Coordination, planning and control of Combined Arms Assets.
Determined to reduce any confusion or doubts, Monash held multiple staff conferences to initiate and discuss proposals and decide on the best course of action. As the plans developed further, and became more complex, more officers were added to provide expertise. The final conference at Bertangles on 30 June included 250 officers, 133 agenda items, and ran for 4 hours and 20 minutes. This is far cry from the earlier tactic such as:“At H Hour I will blow a whistle and you will all run headlong into the interlocked arcs of multiple machine guns“.
Monash’s exemplary planning and logistical skill reflects his civilian life of a civil engineer. He understood both science, mathematics, and the logistical imperative to have things where needed in the correct order. John certainly had an ego, he knew he was the boss, would not hesitate to let you know that fact. But teamwork was his objective, he delegated, he went looking for people who knew what he didn’t.
In his memoir, Lieutenant Rule of the 4th Australian Division describes a pre-Le Hamel Orders Group that would be at home in 2024 in Sandhurst, West Point, or Duntroon.
“We were given our plans and orders, and conference followed conference, until we all had our part down pat; each knew what his brother officer had to do and could take command in case of anyone else getting ‘cracked’ (killed). The men then familiarized themselves with a terrain model of the Hamel area to better understand their unit’s role in the coming days”.
Lt Edgar J. Rule, Jacka’s mob. 1933
British Tanks and Aussie Infantry – Deep seated mistrust.
Allied tanks, the Mark I, were first used in action on the morning of 15 September 1916 during the Somme Offensive. The Battle of Hamel would see the introduction of the Mark V.
British Mark V Tanks and Aussie Infantry – Brothers in Combined Arms.
General John Monash understood the unique personality of his Australian diggers. For instance, he knew well their refusal to salute British officers, after all he’d received plenty of demands for their punishment. A constant military offence that made the British officer’s ‘Sam Brownes’ glow red! Monash, like most Australian and New Zealand officers, simply ignored the issue. They knew well that when it came to fighting, and application of the 2 1/2-foot bayonet, few could rampage like the ANZAC’s. Monash also knew his Australians were cynical of tanks after their experience at Bullecourt in April 1917.
Charles Bean, war correspondent, and author of the definitive ‘Official history of Australia in the war of 1914–1918’ said of the Australians experience with tanks as Bullecourt:
“The tanks were to advance in front of the infantry, crushing wire and clearing enemy resistance. Unfortunately, four of the eight tanks intended to support the Australians, were late, disabled, or broke down; and the Germans had been alerted by the approach of the tanks. The Australians withered under intense machine-gun fire along insufficiently broken entanglements without a single tank ahead of it to clear a passage. The failure of the tanks placed the infantry at unnecessary risk and contributed to over 3,000 casualties. This led to a deep-seated distrust in the tanks. This intense bitterness was grounded in the fact that the whole tanks experiment had been based on a gross overestimate of the tanks capabilities.”
Charles Bean. 1919.
General Monash has some work to do.
The Monash dilemma – How to get cynical and distrustful Aussies to work with something they despise?
The introduction of the Mark V in mid-1918 culminated advancements in tank technology. This tank could move as fast as a running infantryman, was driven by one man (as opposed to four), had better visibility, and dramatically increased mobility. All useless if the Australian infantry would not work with them, did not trust them. What about these ideas thought Monash:
Each Australian unit will have its own designated tanks. The tanks will carry the Australian units markings;
Furthermore, the British Tank crews will start living with the Australians. Extra rum rations all round. You bloody ripper!
A training location will be established: trenches constructed, strongpoints, and wire entanglements to demonstrate to the Australians the capability of the tanks in overcoming them; and
A bell system will allow Australians to communicate with the tank commander; Thus, the Australian troops will communicate as they advance with the tanks and mark with phosphorous grenades what resistance they wanted eliminated.
Since his experience at Gallipoli, Monash had seen his Australian’s storm and cease ground, at tremendous cost and sacrifice. Such ground was then abandoned because of the inability to resupply. Resupply required men to manhandle ammunition, food water, hessian bags and barbed wire across a destroyed battlefield. A broken battlefield exposed to artillery, machine gun and sniper fire – More casualties. Monash’s solution – Some of the sixty provided Mark V tanks, will do nothing but haul critical supplies, on return they can bring back the wounded.
Simple practical solutions, just what you would expect from a civil engineer. Ok, what’s the next problem?
Hey mate, do you think that RE8 Aircraft can drop some tobacco along with the ammo?
General Monash had air support in the form of two squadrons of the Australian Royal Flying Corp (RFC), equipped with the Royal Aircraft Factory R.E.8s. They provided the usual support: Trench strafing, reconnaissance, suppressing counter battery fire, and so on.
General Monash needed more, and with planning, creativity and some practice they used the following solutions during the Hamel Battle:
The RFC will use precisely the same maps in intelligence collection and reconnaissance as Monash’s staff officers;
Thus, upon dropping such completed maps back to HQ, such intel can expeditiously be used in the battles conduct;
The RFC will parachute drop ammunition from their bomb racks as required direct to fighting troops; and
(Off course that had never been done before! Another clever bastard worked out how)
Aircraft will fly artillery suppression fire in support of the tanks.
Battle of Hamel. Australian Flying Corp RE8 Fighter Bomber.
93 Minutes! You mean it actually worked! General John Monash never had a doubt.
The Battle of Le Hamel was a small battle, an experiment in the possible. Monash’s experiment in how cynical, hardened, Australian infantry might actually work effectively with British tanks. Reliable resupply from tanks and ammunitions drops from aircraft will sustain offensive advance.
While a coordinated offensive was not a new approach to warfare, Hamel represented the culmination of three years of learning and innovation on the Western Front, testing an all-inclusive approach to mobile warfare. The flawless execution of the operation resulted in Hamel becoming a model for future operations on the Western Front. Monash described his battle plan:
“The perfected modern battle plan is like nothing so much as a score for an orchestral composition, where the various arms and units are the instruments, and the tasks they perform are their respective musical phrases.”
General Sir John Monash, ‘The Australian victories in France in 1918’.
The Australian diggers will achieve all Monash’s strategic objectives in 93 Minutes. Three minutes over that allocated by General Sir John Monash!
As for the ultimate objective, stopping this slaughter:
World War 1, the guns fell silent on 11th November 1918.
Lest we forget.
John Monash – Civil Engineer, Combined Arms General, and British Knight: Time Traveller.
I intended to offer more of Sir John’s wisdom, but I have largely summarized all there is. For directly after WW1 Monash simply returned to his normal Job, that of a Civil Engineer. See John was the epitome of the Citizen Soldier, in 1914 he was an Officer in the Army Militia, we might understand it better as Army Reserve, Territorial Army or National Guard. By 1920 he was back in Australia building power systems, roads, and bridges.
John Monash was a hero to my Grandparents, and Parents generation.
He even appears on the Aussie $100 note:
Sir John Monash – Aussie meet him in their currency.
I would be surprised if my kids had any idea. He has a university named after him, and several academic prizes.
1918, Knighted by King George, to the embarrassment of his loyal, cynical Aussie diggers.
He even has his own postal stamp.
In times of emergency, Citizens become excellent soldiers, we have seen that with Ukraine’s warriors of both sexes. But warriors require Leadership, and Leadership that will swim against the tide of status quo thinking. Perhaps a Leader, who says, “No thanks, I don’t need a ride, I need ammunition”.
We must not give up on Ukraine, we just need some clever bastard, to empower a unified effective plan, and see it executed.
When I see video of one solitary Ukrainian Bradley Fighting vehicle, taking on three Russian heavy battle tanks – And I consider how Ukrainian’s took existing domestic drone technology, and commenced destroying Putin’s oil capacity, having sunk 30% of his Black Sea Navy, well:
I think Australian General John Monash would smile and say: “It’s not over whilst some Bastard still has a clever Plan”.
(The concept of Stoicism consistently pops up in my writing as a sub theme. It will do it again in this piece. The Stoic Philosophy, and its positive impact on modern life, has gained popularity on social media. If you the reader want to know a little more, I highly recommend Chris Kirk's regular stoic ponderings at 'https://ascendbeyond.beehiiv/com')
At school in 1977 I heard the Sex Pistols for the first time – absolutely hated them: I was sadly listening to the Eagles and other equally lame California soft rock. I guess the disruption, represented by the Sex Pistols, completely escaped me. The social, economic, and political catalyst for the Pistol’s emergence went completely over my head.
British Punk Band, ‘The Pistols’, was British Disruption on drugs!
Pretty sure I never used the word ‘disruption’ in a sentence. But as I travelled, I came to believe, that the world obviously needed an awful lot of it. The status quo, well not the British Rock Group: The existing state of affairs needed a bloody great shake up.
Mindless anarchy and long life – mutually exclusive?
So, what is Disruption, is it not just anarchy?
Sid Vicious, ‘bass guitarist’, member of the Sex Pistols, believed in disruption as chaos, destruction, and complete anarchy. In defense, Sid was only 20. So, I pondered what his views were today: Woops, he died before he reached 22 – Anarchy, anger and worm poo!
Ok, so Disruption requires substance and intent. The Sex Pistols had neither, but they achieved Fame if not fortune. 2004, Rolling Stone magazine listed them No 58 in their ‘100 Greatest Artists of All Time’. Talent is certainly not a precondition of fame, which explains Donald Trump.
So British Punk Rock brought disruption and not much else. Billy Bragg thinks as much, but along came ‘The Clash’ and lead singer Joe Strummer.
“Were it not for the Clash, punk would have been just a sneer, a safety pin and a pair of bondage trousers”.
Billy Bragg. British shit stirrer, political activist and folk singer.
The humble T Shirt has given voice to many social revolutions.
The Clash brought much needed class to the art of disruption.
‘The Clash’ sought disruption, but they had process, talent, substance, and intent.
In 1979, London Calling brought a new level of disruption, one that was thoughtful, and considered. Let’s respect the past, break it yes, but extend it, build on it, positive renewal of the past. The not-so-subtle hint of Strummer’s intent is in hindsight, perfectly clear from the album’s homage to Elvis Presley’s first album.
Disruption – Respect the Historical Legacy: Positive Creation not Anarchy.
Sometimes you just need to tell people what you stand for, what your intent is – Strummer did this!
Punk Rock – Proactive Creative Disruption.
Disruption and the Boss – enduring time traveller.
So, it seems disruption can be enduring. Well certainly Strummer’s intent has been enduring:
London Calling by the Boss!
On June 28, 2009, Bruce Springsteen packed out London’s Hyde Park. The name of the tour was ‘London Calling‘, the opening song a homage to ‘The Clash’. Thirty years to the day, the best Punk song ever written, was still disrupting London. Do yourself a favour, find this concert, sit back, embrace the Bosses energy and drive. Time travelling to 2024:
Ok, so I hear you saying, “So what, it’s all just music, makes no real difference”.
Well Bruce Springsteen gives a far better reason for music then I ever could:
London Calling by the Boss!
Now Bruce is no Sid Vicious. For starters Bruce has a rare and unique talent, people such as that have earned their fame. Bruce and Strummer share the need for disruption, but in a considered, thoughtful way: Certainly not anarchism:
Even Patriots can be Disruptive.
Disruption does not mean anarchy.
So, it seems that disruption does not require destruction of the status quo. Indeed, it often is respectful of the past, but desires fundamental improvements. Disruption can become the status quo or at least a major common aspect of it. That’s precisely what Earnest Hemingway did:
Have you ever read literature from the 19th Century? Like me you started and gave it up as totally incomprehensibly complex. Can’t sleep grab a copy of Conrad’s Heart of Darkness (1899) or Lord Jim (1900). Hemingway thought so as well. Hemingway sought to disrupt what had been acknowledged as fine literature in the past. In so doing he created a unique formula based on comprehensible, uncomplicated language which is simple and straightforward.
Hemingway was so disruptively successful that without us even being aware, most Western writing, is based on Earnest’s Iceberg Theory:
Ernest Hemingway introduced disruption to the history of literature.
Disruption and the Art of Warfare.
Tragically warfare has been the cause of much human disruption and suffering. So, understanding a little of disruption requires some warfare time travel. The growth and fall of the Roman Empire remains the most disruptive element of Human History. We still feel its impact today. What is but one element of that disruption that time travelled down 2000 years to us?
My Postcard, ‘Time Travel – Destruction, Lust, Philosophers, Fascists, and Arseholes‘, found Julius Caesar stalled on the beaches of Ancient Britain. His speech to his reluctant seasick troopers involved a reminder of how they could trust their weapons and their teamwork. Seems rather pragmatic. Not if you consider that Rome’s opponents, Celts and German tribes, had a military tradition of individual combat. Brave and exceptionally violent warriors. But no match for a Roman Legion. Wherein each man took shelter from the shield of the man next to him. And lunged out from behind those shields with a short stabbing sword.
Ancient Rome created military disruption on a grand scale.
Military disruption requires innovation and sound thinking.
Rome conquered and disrupted their known world. That disruption was based on innovation, and adoption of these principles:
Leadership and teamwork;
A professional Non-Commissioned Officer Corp ‘Centurions’, who we would recognize as Sergeants and Warrant Officers;
The empowerment of Centurions to make tactical decisions literally in the front lines, in response to dynamic battle conditions;
Proficiency with personal weapons: The short Roman sword ‘The Gladius’. Not visually dramatic like a battle axe. But delivering lethal thrusts to vital organs from behind the protection of your shield and that of your mates; and
Combined arms warfare: The coordination of artillery, cavalry and infantry.
Testament that today’s disruption becomes tomorrow’s status quo: Rome’s opponents eventually copied such innovation. Significantly,
Rome’s disruptive warfare innovation, and those 5 principles, time travelled 2000 years down to 2024. All professional Western Militaries now fight like this. Putin seems to have misplaced his copy of ‘The Gallic Wars by Julius Caesar’! President Zelenskyy’s success resistance to Russian aggression indicates he actually reads his copy:
President Zelenskyy Learnt Disruption from Julius Caesar.
Disruptive thinkers who time travelled down to us.
Although once disruptive thinking can become the norm, often it is misunderstood. World War One Witnessed Teamwork on an epic scale. With the blow of a whistle large bodies of men, would emerge from the ground in teams. And run diligently into the interlocked arcs of mass machine guns! Teamwork does not always make the Dreamwork, certainly not in the face of misunderstood new technology. Australia World War 1, General Sir John Monash, another disruptive thinker, you can read his story at this link.
Time travelling to North Africa 1942, General Irwin Rommel, has a completely new innovative spin on disruption:
British Military Academy ‘Sandhurst’ should have maintained its German Language classes.
WW1 taught Erwin that military plans would not survive contact with the enemy – Chaos and Disruption were inevitable! Counterintuitively he embraced Disruption. He trained his men to seek out chaos, to create disruption. He trusted his Afrika Korp troopers to respond to such inevitable chaotic disruption, faster and more effectively than his opponent. It worked!
Unlike Putin, Rommel knew his Caesar. He also empowered his Non-Commissioned Officers to make tactical decisions literally in the front lines, in response to those chaotic disruptive conditions.
OODA Loops? Another brilliant disruptive thinker.
1981, another counterintuitive thinker formalized Rommel’s attitude towards embracing the inevitability of disruption. US Airforce Pilot Colonel John Boyd gave us the OODA Loop. (Observe, Orient, Decide, and Act)
OODA – Always Make the other guy react to you.
OODA, a cycle of thinking within a disruptive chaotic environment, designed to make such disruption the other guy’s problem. Another example of how disruptive thinking can become the normal status quo – 40 years later The OODA loop has become an important concept in litigation, business, law enforcement, management education, and military strategy.
Disruptive Innovation – A brilliant man called Magleby.
Time travelling has frequently introduced me to Disruptive Innovation, I thought it was just one of my obsessive quirks, then last week I actually discovered that serious thinkers (obviously excludes me), actually make this a Profession. Take American professor Clayton Magleby Christensen (with a name like that I assumed his Dad thought he would have to fight for a living!) In 1997, old Magleby published his theory of ‘Disruptive Innovation’:
Disruptive Innovation will rip you another arsehole about this big!
Founded in 1843, British establishment and status quo Newspaper ‘The Economist’, has called Magleby, “The most influential management thinker of his time”. Do we really need any more evidence that disruptive thinking can become the norm?
I do wonder why disruptive thinking that endures, always seems to require intellectuals – Then I remember Sid Vicious! Why can’t we simply ask the common man what outcome he requires from all this disruption? Let’s see what Henry Ford thought on this question?
“If I had asked people what they wanted, before I built the first mass produced car, they would have said faster horses.”
Henry Ford. 1930.
Henry Ford – Mass produced affordable cars, disruption extreme.
The Sid Vicious style, disruptive anarchy is self-seeking and will never endure. It must always be resisted and yes permanently DISRUPTED! I include Putinism and Trumpism in that shameless group of self-seeking miscreants;
The status quo frequently deserves DISRUPTION, but the intelligent, patriotic, and considered approach of Joe Strummer and Bruce Springsteen is more effective. If nothing else music gives voice to the unheard;
Julius Caesar proves that well founded disruptive principles can endure and remain useful for a very long period of time travel; and
Irwin Rommel’s approach to chaos and disruption is healthy for the mind and body. Life is chaotic, disruption is inevitable – Best prepare by aspiring to stoic endurance and resilience.
Oh, and I learnt that some people, like Clayton Magleby Christensen, actually know what they are talking about.
Postscript # 1:
In case the presence of Erwin Rommel offends anyone. Rommel’s actions were disruptive to Hitler’s NAZI government. He was murdered for it in consequence. If only the world had more of Rommel’s disruptive influence.
All the characters briefly discussed above share one trait – Stoicism. Stoicism, an attitude to life has travelled down to us from the Ancient World. However, it’s so much more than historical interest. Many people today, especially so the younger generation, have discovered the life sustaining benefits of adding some stoicism to your morning cereal.
Chris Kirk, A former British Commando, now genuine good bloke, and advocate of the Stoic Life, well he is well worth having a Captain Cook at.
(This Post was originally published in January 2023. With the passing of 12 months, and upon reflection, the warnings contained therein have become even more acute.)
Welcome to 2023! I’m eagerly expecting a year of wonder, interest, frustration, and concerning events. What may come over the horizon? Like taxes, you can count on more political propaganda this year! When did it start? What’s its intent? Who were/are some of the great propagandists of time travel? Does propaganda take many forms? What if any are the defenses against the black arts of propaganda. I’ve been pondering such in between XMAS and New Year festivities. Yes, I know at 60 you would think I had a life!
Defence Against the Dark Arts (DADA) – Chapter 11 PROPAGANDA
Make America great again – Powerful dangerous effective propaganda.
November 17, 2012, was a historical day in US history. Donald Trump ‘created’ a slogan that is perhaps the finest expression of propaganda in the contemporary world. Incidentally he stole the concept, who would expect anything else!
MAGA – Make America Great Again – clever but dangerous propaganda.
MAGA is brilliant as a propaganda slogan. Its simplicity and statement of nothing precise, provide the receiver multiple imagined reference subjects. All the bad evil things in your life, Trump will fix. Taxes, immigrants, talk of climate change, inflation, the Clintons – Trump can fix it. A defining aspect of both propaganda and Fascism is the promise of easy fixes. If only you were to give enough power to those who brought you the enlightenment in the first place!
Surely, a baseball cap could not possibly warn of the threat of the violence inherent in the propaganda system. Well of course it can’t! That’s the point of propaganda. To convince common people to support, allow, and sustain actions which they would otherwise abhor!
People are diverse and complex, nothing more diverse than opinions on the structure of society. Some of those opinions are ugly! Fascists, and their belief that violence is legitimate political discourse. You’re not likely to see that printed on a baseball cap, it wouldn’t fit.
Behaviour never lies – The Winnie defense.
Winston Churchill knew one defense against these dark arts was to watch people’s behaviour, and not listen to their words.
Winston’s Primary Defence Against the Dark Arts of Propaganda
But I’m getting ahead of myself. When and where did Propaganda commence its Time Travel?
Origins of Propaganda:
Time travelling back 2538 years to ancient Persia we find King Darius. Darius would bang on with his own version of MAGA – Make Persia Great Again (MPGA), which loses something. I guess the illiterate Trump was lucky America starts with a vowel!
Jumping forward 110 years, we find Pericles in the Acropolis, washing dolmades down with litres of retsina. Prior to the rise of Greece, most people lived under despots. With limited means to represent their political desires as a group. Pericles and his mates were well aware of their group interests. All well informed of the political affairs of their City State. We know Greece as a democracy, but it was a closed shop, excluding women, slaves, non-Greeks and other undesirables. Perhaps Pericles’ propaganda was focused on keeping democracy just the way it benefitted his interest group?
Pericles knew nothing of newspapers, radio, television, LinkedIn and Twitter. But he had public games, theatre, law courts, public oratory, and religious festivals. All of these were used as powerful engines of propaganda to mold attitudes and opinions.
Architecture as Propaganda.
The Greeks were great thinkers, or perhaps it was the retsina. But Pericles realized when the curtain went down on your latest ‘Broadway’ production, well your propaganda went silent. I know, let’s build a huge temple on the highest most expensive land in the city: The Parthenon was born. It’s notable that other great propagandists also chose large architectural monuments to propagandize their message. Christian cathedrals are notable examples as well Hitler’s world capital ‘Germania’.
The Parthenon, built 2450 years before Trump Tower, was intended to show the world the Greeks were strong and brave. In order to serve Pericles’ nationalistic goals, the temple was built on the sacred Acropolis. Seen by anyone approaching the city, permanent glorification of the greatness of Greece. The Parthenon may have survived, but Pericles’s intent for the Greeks did not. The famous Parthenon marbles were knicked by the British in 1812. And the European Union has financially bailed out Greece on more than one occasion. Seems propaganda often does not stand the test of time!
Bits of the Parthenon – The best bits are in the London Museum
Propaganda and the Ancient World.
My previous Postcard, ‘Lust, Fascists and Arseholes’ discusses the fact that Julius Caesar’s writing was self-seeking propaganda. Roman writing is the primary ancient history which time travelled down to us. Tragically, most of it is Roman self-seeking bull shit, consequently much was lost about other worthy ancient civilizations. Propaganda distorts history, it really is Fake News.
Another Roman Emperor, Marcus Aurelius did not have the same penchant for self-seeking bollocks. Marcus wrote about Defence Against the Dark Arts (DADA), his writings on stoicism justifiably time travelled down to us. Reason is the greatest defense against propaganda, but the dark arts are sneaky!
2000-year-old warnings on defense against propaganda.
Fart jokes and propaganda.
Propaganda was on for young and old with the invention of the printing press in 1450. Several hundred years of mass-produced propaganda followed. As the Protestant Reformers and the Anti Reformation Roman Catholics, slogged it out for righteous dominance. You didn’t think the printing press would have been used to educate the mud eating British peasants, did you?
There does not seem to have been much discipline to 15th Century propaganda. Certainly, a lot of buttock baring, farting jokes, and other schoolboy humour. Seems to be what influenced Donald Trump’s personal propaganda style!
I guess Twitter simply maintains a proud tradition of Propaganda.
The two world wars elevated propaganda to a studied art form. Propaganda counters and bi-passes logic, reason, rational thought, and common sense: It manipulates emotions. My previous Postcard, ‘Bastard Horse and Scared Young Men’, introduced my Uncle Les, who ran off as a 16-year-old, joined the Australian Light Horse and fought through World War 1. I’m guessing that Les’ ‘adventure’ was inspired by manipulative propaganda:
WW2 – Liars, creeps and other bastards
If WW1 made propaganda an art form, WW2 was the master period. NAZI Germany knew the manipulative magic of the Dark Arts, creating a Government Department run by Joseph Goebbels.
“Make the lie big, make it simple, keep saying it, and eventually they will believe it”
Joseph Goebells.
NAZI Creep – Joseph Goebbels. Master of destructive propaganda.
Now this guy was a real creep, couldn’t lie straight in bed! Winston warned us that, “Behaviour never Lies”. True to form, the actual cowardice and brutality of Goebbels was exposed in May 1945. Instead of facing the Russians, he and his darling wife murdered their 5 children and killed themselves.
NAZI propaganda, had at its core a complete disdain for people. But they had thought it through, they knew the psychology upon which it played.
Hitler – An appeal to those of limited intelligence.
The little corporal had no more respect for the people, then Goebbels:
The little corporal had no more respect for the people, then Goebbels.
Welcome to the Red Baron’s not so little friend.
Hermann Goering, was no fool, self-seeking, pompous, and arrogant, but clever and calculating. A decorated WW1 Fighter Pilot Ace who flew under command of the Red Baron. When the Baron was shot down by Aussie troops, Fat Boy Goering lead the Baron’s Flying Circus. During the1946 Nuremberg War Crimes Trial, he defended himself effectively against US, Russian and British lawyers. Sentenced to Death by Hanging. True to Churchill’s advice, Hermann also committed suicide.
I imagine Winnie would have chuckled and fired up another Cuban, when he was told of the arrest of Hermann by US military police:
“Hermann was wearing a woman’s silk kimonos, French knickers, long hair, and painted fingernails: He was also completely off his face on morphine.“
US MP Arrest Report Fat Boy not so Slim
Notorious propagandists don’t always come dressed like successful seemingly well-meaning politicians.
Hermann had the usual NAZI distain for the views of the German people. He also speaks to the evil power of propaganda:
I seek not to be an apologist for old fat boy Hermann. But as an example, that evil propaganda is not just the tactic of ignorant sociopaths. A fact we may forget after all these years of laughing at Donald Trump.
Speer Defense – I should have known but I didn’t.
Albert Speer, Hitler’s architect – A man of exceptional logistical talent and extraordinary revolting judgement in political friends.
Albert Speer, Hitler’s Architect – Built propaganda.
Speer was a propagandist, not words like the slimy Goebbels, but architecture and political rallies on a grand scale. Speer designed ‘Germania’, Hitler’s vision for a European/World capital that eclipsed anything Pericles imagined, with or without a Grecian Urn full of retsina. A capital that would for 2000 years, demonstrate the superiority, power and authority of NAZI Germany:
‘Germania’ – Hitler’s Propaganda on a Massive Scale
Germania was never conceived, Speer’s model disappeared in ashes, in consequence of Allied Bombing. Much like most German cities and all of Hitler’s NAZI evil vision. Contemporary propagandists of the Neo-Nazi, and White Nationalist variety, never seem to mention how Time Travel reveals the ashen consequences of their nonsense.
Speer’s Cathedral of Light – All smoke and mirrors.
Speer’s built propaganda works, ‘The Cathedral of Light’, featured in Nazi Party rallies. It consisted of 130 anti-aircraft searchlights, at intervals of 12 meters, aimed skyward to create a series of vertical bars surrounding the audience. Speer described the effect. “The feeling was of a vast room, with the beams serving as mighty pillars of infinitely light outer walls”. The British Ambassador to Germany, Sir Neville Henderson, described it as, “Both solemn and beautiful… like being in a cathedral of ice”. Henderson, quintessentially British establishment, should have known better: Propaganda often appears as seductive entertainment.
Cool as Speer’s ‘Cathedral’ may have been, it was all smoke and literally mirrors, the world should have reacted to the chilling message of hate and domination! Humility seems an excellent DADA principle.
NAZI Cathedral of Light – Illuminating Evil Propaganda
In the 1920’s and 1930 Speer was a crap unsuccessful architect. A period when German architecture, design and engineering was world leading. Innovative, focused on solving real problems, and creating healthy affordable environments for the common people. Hitler condemned this, declaring it Marxist, immoral and decadent. Speer’s neo classical exaggerations arrived! German architects, designers and engineers fled to the US in droves – Contributing mightily to US economic success post war. Today’s neo-Nazis and white nationalist propaganda, never seems to mention that driving away critical talent is an inevitable reaction. Talent gone – toadies remain.
In consequence of his logistical genius, Speer became Hitler’s Armaments and Production Minster. The dubious distinction of producing more weapons in the last 12 months under massive, allied air raids, then in the preceding years. Speer also faced the 1946 Nuremberg War Crimes Trial, it seems he never knew of the Holocaust (dubious), but was responsible for the abuse, starvation and death of thousands in his industry. Speer received a 25-year sentence in solitary and served every day. Russia objected hypocritically: “The US, spared Speer from hanging in return for the secrets of his logistics”. No doubt these Russian ‘vodka sours’, were not a sense of thwarted desire for justice, but because US Security captured Speer first! Abundant hypocrisy and propaganda are long standing comrades in solidarity.
Albert Speer was charming, quick witted and urbane: Also, self-seeking and ruthless. Propagandists come in many forms. And Russian President Putin is the contemporary worst! Putin is also the current world’s greatest hypocrite. A subject I discussed in my Postcard, ‘Fools, heroes, and Villains’.
Russian for Dummies.
Putin controls Russian Propaganda, what he says goes and is repeated!
In some ways, Russian propaganda builds on Soviet Cold War–era techniques, with an emphasis on obfuscation and on getting targets to act in the interests of the propagandist without realizing that they have done so. In other ways, it is completely new and driven by the characteristics of the contemporary information environment. Russia has taken advantage of technology and available media in ways that would have been inconceivable during the Cold War. It’s tools and channels now include the internet, social media, and the evolving landscape of professional and amateur journalism and media outlets. It is international, effective, far reaching, a firehose of falsehood – And Putin controls it all, what he says goes and is repeated!
Now we are back in 2023, is there any self-protection against propaganda?
Conclusion: Defence Against the Dark Arts.
I would like to suggest keep yourself informed. But that’s hard, we are all very busy and effective contemporary propaganda, as Putin uses, is much more sophisticated than silly slogan bearing baseball caps. EG: Russian Propaganda Robots (BOTS) are just as likely to slam this Post. Which explains why Siobhan O’Reilly of Kilkenny, is always bagging me online. I thought it was my endless charm and wit!
Winston Churchill’s advice, ignore the words, focus on the actions is dependable. But in the case of your precious vote, the actions come after your vote, the damage may be done.
So, then I remember the old adage: “If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is”. Remember propaganda is trying to deceive you into supporting something your rational mind would reject. Propaganda promises quick fixes, adult rational people don’t willingly believe in quick fixes, do they? Tragically if the propaganda is effective, they do. 74,222,958 US Citizens voted for the MAGA baseball cap!
To trace the origins of that old adage requires time travel back to 1580, with Thomas Lupton’s ‘Sivquila’. I would suggest getting a copy of Thomas’ work, but this is the only piece of wisdom it contains. Unless of course your house is infected with fleas, wolves, demons, witches, and sorcery. Thomas has plenty of quick fixes for these common problems. So yes, Thomas was also a propagandist, the adage that travelled down to us was firmly aimed at the Catholic Church and its promise of salvation.
I will leave you with old Winnie’s wisdom to back yourself, but even that seems not as it appears!
A previous Postcard ‘Reluctant Heros – Hate, compassion, and daring’, introduced Raphael Oimbari, a Papuan New Guinean who represents many thousands like himself who cared for, carried, and maintained Australian troops in the vicious fighting on the Kokoda Track, Papua New Guinea in WW2. Raphael was a ‘Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel‘,(Wiki has an excellent in-depth report) although the Aussie Diggers just called him mate. Men like Raphael were the unsung heroes of this important military campaign. No commendations and little formal recognition found their way to Raphael’s jungle home. Another unsung hero worked alongside Raphael, Dr Geoffrey Hampden, we will meet him soon. This is their story, in a much-abbreviated form.
Nothing is ever as it seems. This statement has inspired my interest in time travel, IE: the study of history. The itching desire to find the truth, what really happened through time. Often our school education perpetuated myths and half-truths, even complete bull shit. Driven by the motives of government, religion or such. We learn things from our parents, siblings, and friends. Often, they speak through bias, or perhaps complete ignorance. Contemporary social media has made bull shit and fake news a constant attack on objective fact. Nothing new in this as Mark Twain, reminds us time travelling from the 1890’s:
“I was educated once – it took me years to get over it.”
Mark Twain 1890.
Mark Twain – Truth often just isn’t so.
Heroes, Lies, and Half Truths enter my World.
Books and the printed word have a certain legitimacy. We often readily accept their contents, even though its more frequently biased than objectively true. Even Winston Churchill, Britain’s World War 2 Prime Minister and prolific writer knew this to be true:
“History will be kind to me, for I intend to write it myself.”
Winston Churchill.
Winston was a brilliant man, inspiring Leadership skills, remaining studied to this day. However, he was also deeply flawed, and not beyond spinning ripping yarns of self-promotion.
Old Winnie could be a notorious BS Artist.
So it was with the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels, I first learned of them at school in 1971. The ‘Queensland School Reader’ read like a travel blog promoting the former glory of the British Empire, Winston Churchill would have been proud. Hero’s and heroine’s exploits lived in vivid detail, and an expectation planted that we would aspire to be like them. Most of them were men involved in war, or other colonization pursuits.
Honour, courage, bravery and loyalty to Queen and Country. Worthy aspirational traits, well if you ignore Australian republican aspirations.
But it inspired me and prompted my lifetime interest in time travel.
Australian School Textbook 1960 – For Queen and Country
Not so much lies as sparing on objective truth.
Such textbooks were anachronistic, something from a previous time, like Australia in 1890. 1970 Australia, involvement in yet another Asia war, this time in Vietnam. Australians, a growing number, believed war was not noble, or honorable, just savage and this time unjustified. Historical documents like the ‘Queensland School Reader’, provide a waypoint in time against which Australia’s progress as a multicultural society can be measured. The problem was that it only reported the good stuff, the history filtered through the ruling white establishment. So yes, the Papuans who assisted Australian troops in WW2 were brave, and loyal. But that’s not anywhere near the complete objective story.
The following summarizes objective facts omitted from the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel story:
Often little more than slaves, driven by Aussie masters;
Physically beaten and intimidated;
Worked like beasts of burden;
Poorly fed and paid, often not at all;
And many simply melted away into the jungle;
Many wanted nothing to do with this Australian war; though
Many were armed and deadly soldiers, as brave as the Aussies.
To understand something of the Papuans, let’s review where they came from, and some brief history:
Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels and European Empire Building.
Papuans arrived some 60,000 years previously having walked from Africa. Their lives did not change all that much until the dreaded European empire builders turned up in the 1880’s. Noting that the Dutch had taken and controlled the west, Dutch New Guinea from 1660 till 1966. The British colony, not yet the independent Australia, grabbed the southern half of east New Guinea, Germany the northeast. The Europeans had no interest in the welfare of Raphael, other than his cheap labor on cocoa and coffee plantations. Of course, European Christian missionaries followed, their interest being the saving of Raphael’s soul. No one bothered asking Raphael if his soul was in peril, but it certainly was now!
1930’s Papua was all under the protection of the Aussies.
With the 1914 outbreak of World War 1, Britain decided the presence of a German colony in the Pacific was unacceptable. The newly formed independent Australian Navy steamed North to forcibly expel the German presence. After a violent but brief encounter, Australia found itself in charge of another large piece of someone else’s Country. It would remain so until 1975 when Papua finally achieved its independence.
There was off course several years, 1941 till 1943, when the Japanese Empire decided that their ‘Greater East Asia Co-Prosperity Sphere’, absolutely required invasion of Papua and a march down the Kokoda Track to secure Australia. Japan’s fine words actually meant: ‘Japan willprosper, whilst the rest of Asia simply COoperates‘.
And the positive impact on Papuans of all this frantic European activity? Diddly squat! Raphael and his village effectively gained nothing but hard work for minimum wages. In 2024 Papua remains one of the Planet’s poorest Nations. Raphael’s descendants remain largely in a subsistence existence.
Fuzzy Wuzzy’s and their Aussie Mates.
In retrospect the Papuans had little reason to be loyal to their Australian colonial masters, who often treated them as second-class citizens in their own country. Nonetheless many worked until they dropped. It is said that no living soldier was ever abandoned by the carriers, not even during heavy combat. Their compassion for the wounded and sick earned them the eternal gratitude of the Australian soldiers, who called them ‘Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels’.
One of my attractions to time travel, the study of history, is its ability to inform you of the more objective truth of any subject. Let’s have a quick captain cook at what Raphael actually thought of his Aussie Mates:
Reluctant heroes – Raphael and George
Go away, leave us alone!
After the war researchers were astonished to learn that Papuans were united in one opinion:
“We just want the ‘whites’, Japanese and Australians to go away, leave us alone.“
Raphael Oimbari
Australia did, but not until 1975.
Such an opinion, if broadly known would have been a shock to the wartime generation, who never gave much thought to what colonial rule meant for and did to indigenous populations. But,
This opinion should take nothing away from the commitment, bravery, sacrifice, and endurance that men like Raphael provided to and for wounded Aussie boys.
Many Aussie boys survived combat due to men like Raphael.
Benevolent masters versus Japanese Prosperity.
Australia treated men like Raphael as at best very low paid workers, if you can call rice and tobacco pay. But one opinion unified the Australian troops with their Papuan load bearers – Disdain of the Japanese! Quite simply the Papuans hated the Japanese – Who stole their food, raped their women, made them slave labourers, and killed indiscriminately. I guess by comparison Aussies were benevolent masters!
My school textbooks failed to mention that the Fuzzy Wuzzy were not just beasts of burden, they were also brave warriors. As much so as the Aussie troops, and they played a completely unrecorded role in stopping the Japanese advance.
The Papuan Infantry Battalion (PIB)
The Papuan Infantry Battalion was raised in 1940 by the Australian Army. Though all Officers and most NCO’s were Australian or New Zealanders, it should take nothing away from the bravery and courage of the Papuan troopers. Most significantly, few Australians even know of the Fuzzy Wuzzy Warriors. History was limited to portraying the loyal black servants of the dominant white Australians – History itself is more frequently biased than objectively true.
What little I knew of the PIB was of a poorly equipped force lead by a ‘Dad’s Army’ of old Australian Papuan resident plantation owners.
Dad’s Army or Fuzzy Wuzzy Warriors
The objective truth is that such a Dad’s Army knew the rugged unmapped Papuan jungles as their back yard. As coast watches reporting, by air dropped radios, on the movement of Japanese forces, they contributed critical intelligence to the successful defeat of the Japanese. But then there were lethal Fuzzy Wuzzy Warriors.
Green Shadows and Fuzzy Warriors.
Soldiers of the Papuan Infantry Battalion (PIB) were the first to offer resistance to the Japanese invasion of their country. PIB Captain Harold Jesser said that the Battalion was called the ‘green shadows’ because of an entry found in a Japanese diary in Papua.
“The local natives moved silently in the jungle, inflicting casualties on us-and then are gone, like green shadows.“
Japanese War Dairy.
Fuzzy Warriors – Tool of Trade, automatic weapons and machete!
Sergeant John Ehava, won the Distinguished Conduct Medal, the highest bravery award given to a Papuan during World War two. At the end of the Papuan campaign an element of the Papuan Infantry Battalion under Ehava was ambushing Japanese who were escaping north along the coast towards Salamaua. Ehava’s award citation describes what followed.
“On February 8, 1943, at the Kumusi River mouth a patrol under Sergeant Ehava attacked an enemy party attempting to cross the river. During this engagement Sergeant Ehava saw another enemy party approaching on his left. He immediately detached himself from his patrol and, at great personal risk, took up a commanding position and armed with a Bren gun held his fire until the enemy was less than 40 yards distant. He repulsed the attack and personally killed 30 of the enemy.”
Distinguished Conduct Medal (DCM) Citation.
Men like Sergeant Ehava fought as bravely as any of the Aussie Diggers who have been written into my Country’s mythology. Sadly, and dishonestly their stories simply were not passed on. It seems the white fellas were more interested in their own place in history.
Another Reluctant Hero:
Men like Raphael had one white fella in their corner: Doctor Geoffrey Hampden “Doc” Vernon Military Cross (MC).
Geoffrey Hampden “Doc” Vernon Military Cross (MC).
Geoffrey was an Australian doctor and surgeon, resident in Papua growing coffee and providing medical services to remote communities. World War 1 had smashed enough war and slaughter into Geoffrey’s life. From March 1915 to August 1918, he served as a Regimental Medical Officer with the Australian Light Horse at Gallipoli and in the Middle East, where he was awarded the Military Cross for devotion to duty under fire. When the Japanese knocked on the door, Geoffrey lied about his age, enlisted again, pulled on his boots – He was 61!
Geoffrey may have been deaf, in consequence of a near miss with a Turkish artillery shell at Gallipoli, but nothing wrong with his legs – He was one of the few Aussies who could keep pace with Raphael up the brutal Kokoda Track. He also had command of pidgin English, the language of the Papuans – his years of diligent care of the Papuans meant that they had enormous respect for this skinny old man.
Raphael and the Aussie Myth.
Men like Raphael were held in great respect by my Grandparent’s and Parent’s generations, somewhat less by my own, and tragically rarely known to my children’s.
The respect and reverence for men like Raphael is captured in the following verse, written by a soldier of the 39th, which I had to learn in school in the 1970’s:
Many a mother in Australia, When the busy day is done, Sends a prayer to the Almighty For the keeping of her son, Asking that an Angel guide him And bring him safely back Now we see those prayers are answered On the Owen Stanley track, For they haven’t any halos, Only holes slashed in the ears, And with faces worked by tattoos, With scratch pins in their hair, Bringing back the wounded, Just as steady as a hearse, Using leaves to keep the rain off And as gentle as a nurse.
The problem with such myths, is they disguise the truth. They invent a white man’s view on what happened to Papuan’s who really had little if any choice in the matter.
Raphael Oimbari said in 1982:
“We worked hard despite all the danger. We were promised compensation and I ask now for what we were promised. Australian government said you work, you will be like us, but it hasn’t happened. Work for us, we all sit down at the same table, same spoon, same food hasn’t happened. Worked day and night so that things would change, I thought of nothing else. I worked hard for nothing. Australian men went home and got pensions. I’m just rubbish. Old men like me are dying without getting anything … nobody counted how many of us were killed.”
Raphael Oimbari.
And with that quote Raphael disappeared from history, or did he?
Raphael and George – Lest we Forget.
Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels – Often reluctant, yet nonetheless Unsung Heroes.
The truth of Raphael’s words came home to me in researching this article, easy to find precisely how may Aussie (625) and Japanese (10,000) boys died on the Kokoda Track, not even an estimate in regard Papuans!
Alongside the romanticized myth lies a contradictory and unpleasant truth of what life was really like for some Papuan carriers. They were not all volunteers, nor were they all treated kindly with the respect and friendliness that the myth suggests. It has remained in Australia’s public consciousness with varying significance, yet always concealing the negative aspects of this historical narrative. What is most important is to recognise that without the help of the Papuan carriers, reluctant help in many cases: Australia may have had a very different outcome on the Kokoda Track.
Reluctant? Perhaps – Tough and Enduring, definitely!
And what of Dr. Geoffrey Vernon MC?
Geoffrey followed the 39th Battalion up the Track. From the first contact with the Japanese, Dr. Vernon placed himself just behind the front line. He surprised an old Warrant Officer friend from WW1 when walking up the track and out of the mist he simply said in classic Aussie laconic understatement:
“Jack, I heard there was some action here and thought you may need some assistance. Where do I start?”
Dr. Geoffrey Vernon. MC.
Without Geoffrey’s immediate aid, many more boys would have been lost or indeed suffered more than they already had. Dr. Vernon similarly cared for the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels who gave unrelenting care at tremendous loss in evacuating Aussie Troops down that horrible, hated Kokoda Track. Geoffrey survived Kokoda, how he managed to evacuate wounded, and reestablish front line triage, with the constant moving warfare up and down the Track, well that is indeed the work of an unsung hero.
Dr. Vernon simply largely disappeared from Australian History; Geoffrey died in Papua of malaria in 1946.
Fuzzy Wuzzy Warriors – Lest we Forget.
In June 2008, and Australian senator called for Australia’s Parliament to give official recognition to Papua New Guineans’ courage and contributions to the war effort.
I was stunned to learn that Australia has not officially recognized these wonderful Papuan nationals who saved the lives of Australian servicemen. They carried stretchers, stores and sometimes wounded diggers directly on their shoulders over some of the toughest terrain in the world. Without them I think the Kokoda campaign would have been far more difficult than it was.
In 2009, the Australian government began awarding the ‘Fuzzy Wuzzy Commemorative Medallion‘ to living Papua New Guineans who assisted the Australian war effort, usually bringing survivors and their families to Port Moresby for ceremonial presentations.
Let me introduce two reluctant heroes, Private George Whittington and Raphael Oimbari. Raphael and George met in 1942, they would have preferred not to. This Postcard tells the story of men such as these. A story in our troubled times I believe it’s worth remembering.
Reluctant heroes – Raphael and George on the Kokoda Track, WW2, New Guinea
39th Militia Battalion- very reluctant Aussie heroes.
George was part of the 2/10th Australian Infantry Battalion, professional soldiers, who relieved the decimated reserve 39th Militia Battalion, who had slowed the Japanese advance down the Kokoda Track, Papua New Guinea in 1942. George though shot in the face, survived, but died in 1943 of scrub typhus.
Both George and Raphael were reluctant heroes. George is a representative of all the young Aussie men, whose fight, wounds, and death on the Kokoda Track became legend. Raphael, the thousands of Papuans who carried wounded Aussie boys out of the bloody combat, back to the comparative safety of Port Moresby. What is a reluctant hero?
How do you recognize a reluctant hero?
Don’t take my word for it. I’m a notorious tale spinner and bull shit artist. So, in respect to yourself the reader, as follows a quote from Jessica Morrell who actually knows about such things:
“A reluctant hero is a tarnished or ordinary man with several faults or a troubled past, and he is pulled reluctantly into the story, or into heroic acts. During the story, he rises to the occasion, sometimes even vanquishing a mighty foe.”
Jessica Morrell in ‘Bullies, Bastards and Bitches’.
Why my interest in legitimate heroes?
I remain interested and proud of the Aussie reluctant heroes. National heroes create national myths. Such concepts are important to a Countries identity. Maintaining their legacy will require honesty, transparency and integrity. National mythology remains a consistent theme of my pondering Postcards. ‘Bastard Horses and Scared Young Men’, explores this further. Primarily because they typically are ordinary people, people who eventually say: ‘Enough, I don’t like what’s happening, I’m going to stop it”. I’m also very cynical about ‘classic heroes’, that some politicians pretend to be, that pretend they are our salvation, that they by stint of their ‘specialness’, can make things better. Sounds like bull shit to me! But, genuine classic heroes, well we are going to meet one of those, but also a small group of reluctant heroes. Firstly, a little time travel back to 1942 and the Kokoda Track:
Where the hell is the bloody Kokoda Track?
The Kokoda Track runs over the rugged steep inhospitable Owen Stanley Range, Papua New Guinea. Which in 1942 was an Australian protectorate and had been since the opening days of WW1 when Australia destroyed a German garrison in occupation. Papua had been a German colony from 1884 till 1914.
The Japanese Imperial Forces sent a naval force to seize Port Moresby, the capital of Papua, a strategy designed to separate Australia from the United States. However, subsequently Japan received a beating in that Battle of the Coral Sea. Inconsequence their second option prevailed, a force march over the Own Stanley Range.
Kokoda Track – Bastard of a Place.
Kokoda – What a bastard of a place!
The Kokoda Track was 150 kilometres of hell! Even today, with modern light backpacks, structured trails and professional guides – 10 days, and that’s only one half, Ower’s Corner to Kokoda. The rainforest is thick, dark, steep and impenetrable, a soldier wandering off 5 metres to relieve his dysentery, risked not ever finding his mates again.
Compared to the great land battles of WW2: Kursk, Alamein, Guadalcanal – Kokoda was a skirmish. A skirmish that killed 625 Australian, 10,000 Japanese boys, and an unknown number of Papuan New Guineans. Kokoda descended into a clash of cultures. A relatively new Australian society, versus a centuries old Japanese culture of martial pursuits. And the poor bloody local Papuans found themselves smack in the middle.
Kokoda was fought with rifle, pistol, bayonet, machine guns, small mortars, fists, and teeth. There were no tanks, no air support for resupply or evacuation – No Australian artillery to break up Japanese attacks, yet somehow the Japanese had manhandled their own artillery up there! Another aspect of Kokoda, complete underestimation of the professional Japanese Forces: We would more aptly call it racism!
Death, torture and yes, the human taboo – cannibalism!
Kokoda displays all the horrendous, horror of men at war: Death, mutilation, hunger, sickness, disease, murder, rape, torture and yes, cannibalism.
Cannibalism! Though the men of the 39th had no delusions about war, they knew it was not ‘cricket’. But they were totally unprepared for the Japanese culture of war. In the crisis of nearly being overrun, a group of Aussie wounded were left behind to the tender mercy of the Japanese. A counterattack drove the Japanese back, the 39th discovered all their mates had been tortured as bayonet practice, slain and then some eaten. Kokoda was a clash of cultures, much like Ukraine and Russia. Kokoda’s fighting had no limits, no pity or compassion – There were few if any POWs on either side after that episode. 10,000 young Japanese boys marched down the Kokoda Track towards Australia. Only 600 would ever see the Cherry Blossom in Japan ever again.
23rd July 1942, theAustralian 39th Battalion first contacted the might of Japan at Awala, small extremely remote village on the Kokoda Track. The American Fleet lay smashed at Pearl Harbour, Singapore had fallen – All seemed lost and dark. Japan was rampaging toward Australia – In their way the 39th – A Bloody Rag Tag Bunch of Reluctant Heroes!
39th Militia Battalion – Boys and old men, reluctant heroes all.
Off to Kokoda then. WTF is Kokoda!
The soldiers of the 39th were part time reserve soldiers, some only just 18, many were well past 60. Australia introduced conscription in 1939, but it only applied to the Militia, the professional Army remained all volunteers. Militia members often joined the permanent Army, many didn’t. Some of the 39th had been passed over by the regular army. Too old, broken down, misfits, hopelessly unfit, lame, crippled, lacking fighting spirit, and reluctant. Fighting in Australia was one thing, but Africa no thanks, see the Militia could not by Law be sent outside Australia. The Lads had seen what WW1 did to their fathers and uncles – War was no longer some grand adventure. Understandable reluctance, yes!
Then some bright politician had an idea. If Papuan New Guinea was an Australian protectorate, well pretty much part of Australia – Off to Papua it is then lads!
So, the lads found themselves crawling and scratching up Kokoda, very little training – a few rounds through a 303, old weapons as befits ‘simple’ reservists. Clad in highly visible khaki uniforms in a sea of dark green – It really was a desperate measure! Australia’s professional army, Australia’s Imperial Force (2AIF) was fighting in Africa, would take time to ship them back. Assuming we could get around Winston Churchill, he did everything he could to block the return of the AIF.
So, there we are, reluctant heroes in place, in hell on earth and all hell is about to let rip.
How did the Australian Government lead such reluctant heroes?
The answer is not very well, well certainly not at supreme command level.
General Douglas Macarthur was the supreme allied commander based Down Under. Had been since the Japanese surprise attack on Pearl Harbour and Douglas’ abandonment of his own troops in the Philippines.The US decided it needed an unsinkable aircraft carrier – What about a little place called Australia?
Winston Churchill did not help. Winnie, you said Singapore was invincible, now we are about to be overrun by some very brutal effective lads from the Land of the Rising Sun – We like our own land of glorious sunset plains and vision splendid, thanks a lot! And as for knicking our AIF because of some equally effective German Panzer commander in Africa – Might just call Washington.
US General Macarthur – All mouthy corn cob, no trousers!
Two Generals with big heads – But NFI about Kokoda.
Macarthur was all corn cob and personal self-seeking puffery – Just perfect for his aspiration to be the next US President!
Macarthur broke the cardinal rule of warfare, know your terrain. Douglas infamously said of Kokoda:
“It’s just like Leonidas the Spartan, at the Pass of Thermopylae, two old *iggers with shot guns could hold it.”
General Douglas Macarthur. Description of the Kokoda Track.
I’m sure Australia’s Prime Minister John Curtin, wished the British War Cabinet under Churchill was still in charge. But John has another blow hard to contend with, Australian grown, Field Marshall Sir Thomas Albert Blamey.
Thomas Blamey, another blow hard.
Field Marshall Sir Thomas Albert Blamey, the Australian, supreme Australian commander, under ‘Old Corn Cob’, well he had no more idea of the horrendous conditions our reluctant heroes were facing at Kokoda. Not sure what ‘Field Marshall’ signified as he certainly knew nothing about the ‘Field’ of Kokoda, and little of infantry tactics.
Thomas said of the 39th:
“You ran like rabbits, remember it’s the rabbit who runs who gets shot, not the man with the gun.”
Field Marshall Sir Thomas Albert Blamey
Blamey was describing the 39th’s simply brilliant series of textbook tactical withdrawals, more of that soon. Thomas thought he could run Kokoda from Army HQ, Brisbane. Some 2000 kilometres away, an awful long distance in 1942. Thomas did more brown nosing, than nosing around such that he had appropriate knowledge of the Kokoda logistical obstacles.
Sir, Should I call you President?
Kokoda and Legitimate Leadership.
In Blamey it is hard to imagine a worst leader to be in charge of Aussie troops, However,
At the front the 39th were led by NCO’s and Officers who were simply first class. They really were ‘Dad’s Army’, veterans of WW1, they had reenlisted expecting to pass on their knowledge to their sons in boot camp. Another round of combat carnage was the last thing they expected. They lead from the front, statistics prove that. -Officer and NCO casualties were 15 times higher than in Africa fighting Rommel. If they were reluctant, they did not show it. Men like Colonel Ralph Honner who took command of the 39th, replacing the previously killed CO.
Shakesperean Drama on the Kokoda Battlefield.
So how did the 39th Perform:
From the first contact on 23rd July 1942, The 39th could not possibly block the Japanese, so they fought a series of textbook tactical withdrawals back to the Village of Isurava, where on 26 August 1942 the full-time professional soldiers of the AIF started to arrive and fill in their depleted ranks.
Together the 39th and the AIF continued their tactical withdrawal, until on the 05 September 1942 the 39th were relieved – All remaining 185 of them.
39th Battalion – Scruffy, Knocked about – Not Beaten!
The AIF dug in at Imita Ridge on 18 September 1942, the planned last stand, there would be no more withdrawal. But the Japanese were defeated. But there were no words for ‘retreat’ nor ‘tactical withdrawal’ in the Japanese Imperial Field Manual – They were simply instructed to ‘Advance to the Rear’.
No casual withdrawal, as the AIF chased them all the way back to Gona.
So, what was so heroic about the reluctant heroes of the 39th?
There are no recorded grand classic heroic actions by the soldiers of the 39th. But their big brothers of the AIF, at Isurava, they displayed plenty of that. Take Charlie McCallum’s action in covering the withdrawal of 39th and his own mates from the AIF:
“Charlie had already been wounded three times when his platoon was ordered to withdraw just as the Japanese were about to swamp their position on the high ground at Isurava. Charlie held and fired his Bren gun with his right hand and carried a Thompson submachine gun in the other hand. When his magazine ran out on the Bren, he swung up the Tommy gun with his left hand and continued to cut down the surging Japanese as he changed magazines on the Bren. When the Tommy gun was empty, he used the Bren gun again, and continued his one-man assault until all his comrades were clear. When he knew his mates were clear, Charlie fired a final burst and calmly moved off back down the Track.”
Extract from Charlie’s Victoria Cross nomination.
The Teamwork of heroes.
The 39th’s heroics were typically not of the individualistic self-sacrificing type, though there was plenty of that. Theirs was one of teamwork, the ability to learn fast and adapt in life-threatening, soul-destroying conditions. The fact that they mastered one of the most complex of infantry manoeuvres, the successful tactical withdrawal, and kept it over 7 weeks is quite remarkable – Many of these men had not even fired a 303 rifle until the voyage to Papua.
On the evening of the Japanese attack at Isurava, a Platoon size group of 39th seriously wounded had been sent, in the care of Papuans, back along the track to Moresby. On hearing the escalating din of battle from Isurava, the platoon about turned, hopped, crawled and staggered back to rejoin the fight. One had no foot, the other a bullet in the throat, and a third a forearm blown off.
One of the young 39th soldiers said:
“We never did it for King and Country – Fuck that. We did it because the 39th expected it of us.”
Unidentified digger of the 39th.
Lost, crippled, and bloodied – Not so reluctant heroes now.
Four days prior a 39th forward patrol had been driven off the Track by Japanese units surging on Isurava. Surviving the murderous, groping jungle, they emerged back on the Track.
Their Commanding Officer Col Ralph Honner described what happened then:
“It was enough to make a man weep, to see those poor skinny bastards hobble in on their bleeding legs. On hearing of the news that the 39th and AIF were fighting for their lives at Isurava. They turned and hurried off back up the track to Isurava, as fast as their crippled feet could carry them”.
Colonel Ralph Honner
Shakespearian elegance in the jungle of death.
How did the 39th perform? Strewth, all bloody rippers!
Col Ralph Honner, with much more Shakespearian elegance, addressed the last parade of the 39th on 05 September 1942:
One hell of a After Action Review.
Lt Col Ralp Honner’s address has understandably become a significant event in Australian nation building. The Australian made 2006 movie ‘Kokoda’ brilliantly and tear jerkingly recreates this address in the short extract.
The End of Reluctance:
May we never forget that common ordinary men can do extraordinary things. They can beat the odds.
Yes, we need classic individual heroes, men like Prime Minister Churchill, and President Zelensky – People who inspire us to keep going. Men and women who would rather stand against evil then hitch a ride away from danger.
But, more than ever we need everyday heroes, people prepared to stand up and resist oppression, evil and all the crap things in our world – Even if they start out somewhat reluctant!
(This Postcard was originally published in January 2023. Like many, I was both enraged and deeply concerned about Putin's illegal and unprovoked attack on Ukraine. When little Vlad suggested that the West needed to stay out of it, well I had to respond.)
Who would venture out in the midday sun? Well according to the 1931 Noël Coward song, only ‘Mad dogs and Englishmen’. Coward would perhaps smile in considering the deconstruction, and reconstruction of his lyrics. As a result, they have morphed to accommodate ideas quite removed from the simple witty satire originally intended. Noel knew social media to be newspapers and the medium he mastered, popular music. Today’s social media brings the glare of the midday sun, onto most people on the Planet. That is to say, Noel’s lyric are a metaphor for public exposure. Most people have some exposure to social media. As a result, most people, know how cruel, how energy sapping, how destructive, such exposure can be. Only a certain type of person enjoys such attention. Consequently, only fools, heroes, and villains venture out in the midday sun!
Does anything more than popular entertainment result from social media dominance? Perhaps it depends on whether those exposed are heroes, fools or villains. Above all whether we can understand the difference. I was pondering such issues when I decided to write to little Vlad.
Putin – fool and villain. Dear Vlad,
Recently I sent a letter via LinkedIn to President Putin as follows:
Oh, Mr. Putin you are a hypocrite. You say, “The Wests’ provision of weapons to Ukraine will prolong the war, it must stop”.
Do you remember the USSR, it was in all the papers, especially its dissolution on Dec 26, 1991. Well,
The USSR was attacked by Germany on June 22, 1941. The USSR was sustained by Allied Convoys delivering weapons and materials. Oh, that sounds remarkably familiar.
And you clearly forget that in excess of 10,000 merchant sailors perished on such convoys.
Convoys like PQ17, 35 ships commenced the journey, only 11 made it to the USSR.
Lest we Forget!
Peter Veal, January 2023
Vlad the Hypocrite.
I attached the following poster. Which depicts Allied Convoys making the extremely dangerous run to Russia. Arguably Russia would have succumbed to German Nazism during World War 2 if not for such sacrifice. Now Putin complains of the same Countries sustaining Ukraine: Hypocrisy!
British Merchant Seaman – Uncelebrated Quite Heroes
I’m still awaiting a response from Vlad, perhaps he’s busy? My intent was to define Putin’s hypocrisy in complaining of the West’s support for Ukraine. Whilst ignoring the historical fact that in 1941 the West supported Russia (USSR).
Over 10,000 Merchant Seaman died crewing these convoys. This figure excludes military personnel, sailors and airman: In total 72,000 lives! Britain expended weapons and treasury it really needed for self-defense. British convoys commenced in August 1941, only a few months after the Battle of Britain, had ceased to be an existential threat. Consequently, as much as Britain needed Russia to resist Germany, it desperately needed all its weapons, men and treasury rebuild its defensive and offensive strength.
Extraordinary Heroism and Conspicuous Courage. Death in a freezing cold sea, a long way from home.
So, what does it mean to be a hero?
What is the importance in Society of Heroes?
Should we still value heroic endeavours in the contemporary world?
One person’s Hero, another’s Fool a short time travel trip.
In Ancient Greek tradition, a hero was a human, male or female, of the remote past. Heroes, in consequence of descendance from immortal gods, possessed superhuman abilities. Equally, they had all of the qualities and faults of their fellow humans. But those human characteristics were always on a much larger scale. Counterintuitively for the modern mind, ancient heroes were not paragons of virtue. Whether fool or villain, ancient heroeslike their parent gods, were objects of cult worship.
Obviously, some of this tradition time travelled 2500 years down to us: Donald Trump.
Funny? No: Pathetic and Insulting to Real Heroes, yes!
If you’ve been lucky to escape this absurdity, Trump has recently released a range of digital trading cards which portray himself as a superhero! Quick pause to be sick and then we will continue………………………
Trump certainly fits the classical tradition: No virtue, all the failings of mortal humans but on a much larger scale, and at least in his ‘mind’, descended from a god albeit a self-seeking, sociopathic one, his father Fred Trump!
A sensible definition of a Hero.
Out of respect for legitimate heroes, like the merchant men on Convoy PQ 17, let’s move on. What’s a contemporary more plausible definition of hero?
The Oxford English Language Dictionary defines Hero:
A person who is admired by many people for doing something brave or good;
The main male character in a story, novel, film, etc.;
A person that you admire because of a particular quality or skill that they have; or
In North American English, a long bread roll split open along its length and filled with various types of food.
Ok, Item 4 demonstrates how contemporary language has become ‘monetized’, to the point of meaninglessness. So, this Postcard definition (with the help of people who actually know what they are talking about):
Definition of HEROICS:
It’s performed in service to others in need – whether that’s a person, group, or community – or in defense of certain ideals;
It’s engaged in voluntarily, even in military contexts, as heroism remains an act that goes beyond the requirements of military duty;
A heroic act is one performed with recognition of risks and costs, be they to one’s physical health or personal reputation, in which the actor is willing to accept anticipated sacrifice; and
It is performed without external gain anticipated at the time of the act.
Heroism is a concern for other people in need—a concern to defend a moral cause, knowing there is a personal risk, done without expectation of reward. What are the consequences of neither having legitimate heroes, nor honouring them:
Enough chat, lets discuss some real heroes:
Who were the Heroic Men of Convoy PQ17.
The merchant seaman of Convoy PQ17 were just average British men, men of combat age, who just loved being at sea, right? Absolutely wrong! PQ17 included: Indian, Chinese, West Africans, Scandinavians, Dutch, Canada, New Zealanders, and Australians. Notably and in contrast to the times – The British Merchant Navy was similar to a ‘Foreign Legion’, recognized as an open society, free of distinctions of class, race, religion, age or colour.
The men who crewed such convoys, are often portrayed as grizzled, crusty older men. Perhaps stoking boilers or a cook smoking whilst stirring yet another stew of salted beef. Much of this is true, for example the oldest known merchant seamen were in their seventies. Chief Cook Santan Martins of SS Calabria was aged 79 when he was killed in action in her sinking by German Submarine U-103 in December 1940. But, there were also boys.
The youngest merchant seamen were invariably “Boy” ratings, Deck Boys, Galley Boys, Mess Room Boys, Stewards Boys or Cabin Boys typically 14 or 15 years of age. Ken and Ray Lewis, aged 14 and 15 years respectively, were killed sailing together aboard the SS Fiscus when it was sunk by German Submarine U-99.
Heroes of the British Convoys that supplied the USSR in World War 2.
What motivated such Heroes?
So why did they do it?
Well, it certainly wasn’t for the pay and conditions! The basic working week was 64 hours, before overtime kicked in. Food was usually coarse and poor as refrigeration was not available. Salt meat from brine tubs and butter from tins provided much of the staple diet.
On British vessels attacked and sunk by enemy action, merchant sailors received no pay from the moment that their ship sank, regardless of survival if picked from the sea, it was all recorded as non-working time! Fortunately, this changed in May 1941, so the few survivors of PQ 17 were paid: An amount substantially less than a British Army Privates pay, so not very much!
From the outbreak of war in September 1939, British Merchant Seamen could decide if they wished to sail and risk attack by German forces. The extremely high losses were public knowledge. Such men knew the fear and went anyway.
The men of PQ 17 were not there for the pay or conditions, they weren’t volunteers as such, but it seems they had a choice: They really were unsung heroes! They must have known the risk of death in a cold dark sea.
Lying in the dark, trying to sleep, waiting for the shattering, shaking, and shock inducing impact of a torpedo: They really were heroes, scared and frightened, but nevertheless heroic.
Heroes: Real and Fictious:
Do we need to bring back real heroes? Why if at all do we need heroes?
We need heroes first and foremost because our heroes help define the limits of our aspirations – Courage, humour, and justice: Or indeed the lack of them. Sometimes those heroes are real characters, sometimes fictious. Sometime those heroes are very young and very scared, but they perform heroic acts regardless. The fictious ones are often satirical, funny, pathetic even: They provide a voice that the real unsung heroes may never otherwise have.
Old Tin Legs – Sir Douglas Bader:
Watch this Mum – No legs! Nothing beats Determination!
Those lucky to have been born in my generation or earlier, the Swinging 60’s, know Douglas well. For others, a potted history:
Douglas was a WW2 British Spitfire Ace. Quite remarkable given he lost both legs crashing his plane in 1931. Flew top cover over ‘The Dunkirk Evacuation’, then ‘The Battle of Britain’, until shot down over France in 1941: Multiple escapes from German captivity, the first within days of being shot down. Such a pain in the arse, Germany locked him in ‘Colditz Castle’.Not one to let the weeds grow under his tin feet, Douglas spent his time in Colditz smuggling contraband around inside his tin legs.
Sir Douglas is a legitimate hero in the classic military sense, boundless drive, courage, and resilience But, just as important is the example he sets in overcoming adversity. Imagine losing both legs in 1931? We’ve all seen contemporary amputees working hard to regain mobility, and that’s with extremely sophisticated prosthetics. Imagine having two tin legs manufactured by a craftsman who last week was beating out wing panels for a Morris Minor?
Heroism is not just displayed in military settings. Not all heroes are solely of the ‘daring do’ military type, some heroes, who time travelled down to us, were simply heroic regardless of setting!
Captain Lawrence Oates.
“I am just going outside and may be some time.”
Captain Lawrence Oates.
Last week, 19 January, was the anniversary of British Naval Officer, Captain Scott’s ill-fated race to the South Pole. He lost the race and his life. Also losing his life was a British Army Officer, Captain Lawrence Oates. Lawrence was another classic military hero. Seriously wounded in an 1898 Second Boer War engagement, when called on to surrender Lawrence replied, “I came to fight not surrender”. For that action Lawrence was recommended for the Victoria Cross, the Commonwealth’s highest military medal, since 1856 only ever awarded to 1358 individuals. But another action made him an enduring hero.
On the return from the South Pole, Lawrence performed an extraordinary feat of self-sacrifice. Injured and crippled from frost bite, he knew he was slowing down the team, compromising their chance of a safe return. Lawrence walked out into the night with classic British understatement: “I am just going outside and may be some time”.
Captain Lawrence Oates – ‘A Very Gallant Gentleman’.
Enduring British Heroes of total fiction.
Some fictious heroes, just endure, for their message travels across time – Take Captain James ‘Biggles’ Bigglesworth – then we have a not so humble bank manager, the WW2 British Home Guards, Captain Mainwaring.
Am I entering the Realm of Fantasy here?
Captain George Mainwaring a fictional WW2 British Home Guard Captain of the sitcom ‘Dad’s Army’ fame. First aired on 31 July 1968,‘Dad’s Army’ still remains a favourite, despite 53 years of time travel! But seriously, what can the bungling George tell us about heroism?
George is pompous, blustering, with an overdeveloped sense of his own importance.But he is also brave, self-sacrificing, loyal to his men without fault, and prepared to make very hard decisions. If not perhaps classically heroic in appearance, Captain Mainwaring is at least out in public demonstrating fundamental Leadership skills. However, even the bumbling, likeable Captain, does at times display heroics beyond that expected of a Home Guard Officer. When the local parishioners are taken hostage by a downed Luftwaffe air crew, George leads a successful rescue mission. Success is only possible when George places his own life in danger as a distraction, allowing the Platoon to flank and overcome armed German airman.
Captain George Mainwaring symbolizes all the ordinary people that have performed extraordinary heroic feats of self-sacrifice in the interests of others.
Lest we forget that fact. Britain has not.
Lest We Forget all the Captain George Mainwarings
The End – of Heroes
The time has come to change our model of heroism. Being a hero is no longer a mythical classification reserved for superheroes in comic books, or a few legendary men and women, or classic military types. Nor should we tolerate narcissistic politicians, who debase the concept of ‘Hero’ for self-seeking purposes.
The meaning and definition of words is important. That the Oxford English Language Dictionary, defines ‘Hero’ as a:‘Bread roll stuffed with food’, is quite absurd!
Our role models need reprogramming, who do we want to emulate. People we respect because of their ethical values and morals? Or those who have many social media followers?
Social media makes it far too easy to confuse celebrity with excellence.
Recognition and acceptance of the value of Principles is part of the answer: Trustworthiness, Integrity, Courage, Honesty, Authenticity, and Humility – Foundational Leadership aspirations. Oh, and let’s toss in some essential Captain Mainwaring –Loyal to his men without fault and prepared to make very hard decisions.
The war in Ukraine has many lessons – We need more of such Principles.
Who could ever have guessed that the good President was a fan of Corporal Jones?
The Wisdom of Humble Butchers can inspire Presidents!
(This Postcard, originally published January 2023, is one of my 'Postcard Snippets' range. Intentionally abbreviated, little more than introductions to a complex subject. Often, they first appeared as spontaneous Posts on Facebook or LinkedIn, sometimes on the anniversary of a historical event discussed therein. I provide links and suggestions to the interested reader so they may choose to follow the bouncing ball and discover more about the endlessly fascinating stories History and Time Travel expose.)
Recently I sent a letter to President Putin as follows:
Oh, Mr. Putin you are a hypocrite.
You say:
“The Wests’ provision of weapons to Ukraine will prolong the war, it must stop.”
Vladimir Putin
Do you remember the USSR, it was in all the papers, especially its dissolution on Dec 26, 1991. Well,
The USSR was attacked by Germany on June 22, 1941. The USSR was sustained by Allied Convoys delivering weapons and materials. Oh, that sounds remarkably familiar.
And you clearly forget that in excess of 10,000 merchant sailors perished on such convoys.
Convoys like PQ17, 35 ships commenced the journey, only 11 made it to the USSR.
Lest we Forget!
Peter Veal January 2022
I attached the following poster – Allied Convoys sustained Russia in World War 2, now Putin complains of the same Countries sustaining Ukraine: Hypocrisy!
British Merchant Seaman – Uncelebrated Quiet Heroes
I’m still awaiting a response from Vlad, perhaps he’s busy? My intent was to define Putin’s hypocrisy in complaining of the West’s support for Ukraine, whilst ignoring the historical fact that in 1941 the West supported Russia (USSR) after attack by Hitler.
I was struck by the sacrifice of Merchant Seaman, over 10,000 killed running convoys as depicted above. This figure excludes military personnel, sailors and airman: In total 72,000 lives!
Extraordinary Heroism and Conspicuous Courage. Death in a freezing cold sea, a long way from home.
Bill the Bastard and Les – Aussie mongrels fighting a War.
Let me introduce Bill the Bastard. You have already met my Uncle Les in my previous Postcard ‘National Myths – Bastard Horses and Scared Heroic Young Men’. Les was a country lad: riding, shooting, and living rough was part of his way of life. Leslie was like all Aussie Lighthorseman of the First World War, rough, tough, adventurous, brave, courageous – And that was the horses I am describing! Bill the Bastard was an Aussie War Horse, a Lighthorse Trooper. Les and Bill spent the War chasing Turkish cavalry around the Palestine Desert. Other Australian Light Horsemen were dispatched to the battlefields of Gallipoli and France. Their stories are accessible for reading through this provided link.
Mongrel Warriors – Aussie Troopers and their Horses of World War 1.
What a contrast. Turkish troopers represented the upper segments of their society, mounted as they were on highly trained thoroughbred horses. Australian’s troopers, Les and Bill, well they were the other end of the social spectrum. They had the characteristics required for success. What Australians will still describe as: “You gotta have some mongrel in you to succeed.”. By example, my previous Post, ‘Lawrence of Arabia and other Lying Bastards’, describes another adventure of the Australian Waler. You can read their story by following this link.
The language we speak is ever evolving, and a brief historical example explains this. At the 1066, English Battle of Hastings, we would not recognize the English, French, or German languages being spoken. The English of 1066 used words, and changed their meanings in a manner we would recognize. A ‘bastard’, who we know as William, was present at the Battle of Hastings.
Another right Bastard called Bill.
William the Conqueror, led the successful Norman Invasion of England in 1066, which changed the course of British history. British King Charles 3 is directly descendent from William, consequently the ruling British Monarchy actually took the British Throne by force of arms. Try doing that in Europe in 2024, without creating an awful fuss. The Pre-Norman English, preferred to call William ‘Bill the Bastard.’ Not all was wine and roses in 1067, England.
Jumping forward to 1914, the year Australia entered World War 1.
1914, the Aussie subjects of George 5, King Charles 3’s, Great Grandfather: Well, they had turned the ‘Kings English’ on its head. ‘Bastard’ had become a salute of honour, praise, and respect. Only Australian’s would take another country’s derogatory terminology, spin it, give it a completely opposite meaning. Aussie’s still do this. It’s origins?
Perhaps started with British convicts, those from the ‘back blocks’ of London, those transported to Australia for petty crimes. Such people created a coded language ‘rhyming slang’, intended to be their own, intended to confuse those in authority.
Definitely an Australian motivation for such colloquial language is in large part a ‘thumb your nose’ approach to those who get above their station. Australians still aspire to an egalitarian society where no man is king, and no man’s fine language makes him better than the rest.
Up steps ‘Bill the Bastard’! A horse who really represented this Australian Mythology of the ordinary bloke, being as good as the next, and capable of extraordinary achievements.
Australia’s War Horse – No they weren’t all called Bill.
Bill was an Australian ‘Waler,’ a War Horse. A Waler is an Aussie Iconic image: stout, ugly, tough, loyal, and resilient war horse unique to Australia. Troopers, like my Uncle Les, consider them mates. Bill had his origins in the English Thoroughbreds and Arabs the English Government shipped Down Under, along with an awful lot of Convicts. This was a tough new land; no fine English blood line would cut it. After introducing some ‘mongrel’ blood from South Africa and Timor: Bill appeared. A tough new breed, just the thing for: Beating the toffs at the Local Races, pulling the wife and kids in a buggy to Sunday Mass, riding to the pub: And fighting a war!
Bill fought in and survived the Battle of Romani 1916. He and his rider, raced through Turkish gunfire to collect four wounded Aussie Troopers. Two wounded troopers climbed up in the saddle behind the rider. Bill’s stirrups each supported another. It was fortunate for all, that the Turkish soldiers were consistently poor marksman. Bill galloped 1.6 miles back though soft sand, with Turkish rifle fire cracking around their heads.
Bill the Bastard rescues five Australian soldiers.
Bill, the now tired old bastard, had earned his rest. Withdrawn from combat, he worked on Gallipoli, retrieving the fallen bodies of Aussie and Turkish boys. He retired on a farm in Gallipoli, and now rests in a marked grave with other fallen heroes. Bill has not been forgotten and recently a large bronze statue has been created in his honour.
How these Australians bastardize the King’s English.
(Another diversion to discuss Australian slang. I did warn in 'Time Travel and Me' of my unapologetic Aussie voice. The Aussie use of the derogatory 'Bastard' is the finest example of what my Countryman have done with the King's English. As follows a famous quote to illustrate)
(During the 1932-33 cricket test between England and Australia , English captain, Douglas Jardine, walked into the Australian dressing room to complain about being called a bastard. The Australian captain asked his team):
“Which one of you bastards called this bastard a bastard?”
It is a Leadership Lesson, about the risk of underestimating the underdog, the rough trade, low breed, back blocks stock, non-establishment types: They are often the heroes!
And, if it is just a good story, you can find ‘Bill the Bastard’ by Roland Perry, on ABE Online Books, for as low as $3.60 AUD, bloody good read about a real tough bastard!
(This Postcard is one of my 'Postcard Snippets' range. Intentionally abbreviated, little more than introductions to a complex subject. Often, they first appeared as spontaneous Posts on Facebook or LinkedIn, sometimes on the anniversary of a historical event discussed therein. I provide links and suggestions to the interested reader so they may follow the bouncing ball and discover more about the endlessly fascinating stories History and Time Travel expose.)
On the 7th of December 1941, Australia was at war with Japan. Both Countries commenced their catastrophic clash of cultures in the Pacific. Australia declared war on Japan, in consequence of the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbour. That surprise attack awoke the sleeping giant that was the United States. It was however, along with the British Commonwealth, woefully unprepared for war. Japan had the upper hand as a result of preparation, recent combat experience, and shear bloody ruthlessness.
Then things changed as a result of two primary victories. Firstly, men such as though below, halted, reversed, and then drove the Japanese forces out of New Guinea. Secondly, in parallel with the first action, A combined US and Aussie fleet, defeated the Japanese Imperial Navy in the Battle of the Coral Sea.
One of my passions is Time travel, you may recognize it more readily as the study of history. Military history remains at the forefront of historical studies, above all because it contains so many lessons about the nature of humans.
Japan brings war Downunder.
23rd January 1942, Japan landed on New Guinea, approaching Australia via the Kokoda Track. After a year of brutal, ruthless, slaughter, where few POWs on either side were taken; on the 9th of December 1942 Japan began its withdrawal from New Guinea. But such withdrawal came with a problem. Japanese Imperial forces had no military order for retreat, they had never needed too or even drilled a retreat action. The commanding General had a pragmatic solution:
“Advance to the rear“.
General Tomitarō Horii
However, it was not that simple. Aussie men, men of my grandfathers and father’s generation, men just like those below, they weren’t having any of this simply walking away routine. Consequently, they chased the Japanese all the way out of New Guinea, well actually most Japanese boys stayed permanently, rotting in the ground.
Yes, typical of Aussie troops, what are scruffy lot! They might have been unkept, but when Australia was at war, well these blokes stepped up.
1941 multicultural Australia at war.
This photograph is historically interesting, because of the two issues it illustrates:
An Australian will recognize the multicultural mix we already were by 1941. First Nations, fair skinned Scots, olive skinned Italians and Welsh, light-built Angles and heavy-built Saxons – All Australian; and
For a Country caught with its pants down by the outbreak of war, well in barely more than half an Infantry Section, there are by 1942 standards, a predominant number of automatic weapons. 303 Bren Gun, jungle clearing sweeper, usually fired from the hip in advance, and supplying fire support in withdrawal. The .45 Thompson Machine Gun of 1920’s gangster fame, a heavy unreliable weapon, but critical fire power at close quarters in New Guinea’s heavy rainforest. Devastatingly effective when poked through the firing port of a once concealed Japanese bunker.
Scruffy Aussies at War.
“I saw an Australian step out of the jungle, naked other than a pair of torn shorts, firing a Thompson with one hand, he threw grenades with the other. I knew we could not defeat men such as these.”
A Japanese Warrant Officer
Scruffy, naked, but effective Aussie Diggers.
Australia at War – Lest we Forget, but please don’t celebrate.
On ANZAC day, Australians and New Zealanders stop and remember the sacrifice of men such as these. War is the worst form of human behaviour. As a result, war must always be the last resort. Of course, sometime wars of self-defense are the inevitable response to aggression. TheRules of War must be maintained, otherwise we many never find our way back to peace. It’s difficult to consider peace with an enemy, who invaded without provocation, and then rapped, pillaged, tortured and cannibalized their way across your Country. The alternative to war by rules is simply terrorism and inhuman brutality.
17,000 Aussie men like these, died in the War against Japan, 8,000 of these as starved, brutalized, tortured, and over worked prisoners of war.
10,000 Japanese boys marched down the Kokoda Track, New Guinea toward Australia – Less than 600 would ever see Japan again.
Fortunately, Australia and Japan are now close friends, as Australia is with Vietnam, after similar brutal combat. No holds barred enemies, don’t have to remain so, things can change, but both sides must make the choice.
Lest we forget out shared humanity in our present troubled times.
Japanese Samurai Musashi wrote about Do-It-Yourself Carpentry.
Samurai and Tips on Home Renovation:
Musashi elevates humble carpentry to a life journey of pursuing artisanship. Why is the 1987 founder of a very successful weightlifting supplement company interested in DIY house renovations? Sorry you have the wrong Musashi.
I’m speaking of Miyamoto Musashi (circa. 1584 – 13 June 1645), a Japanese swordsman, strategist, artist, and writer.
In 1643 he retired to a cave and wrote. Musashi’s writing is studied today similar to the Ancient Worlds’ Chinese General Sun Tzu, or the Stoic Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius. IE: Lessons on leading a meaningful life. My premise for this journal series is that humble carpentry teaches and sustains many of the principles that many consider essential to a meaningful life.
Musashi’s work is most commonly known through movie portrayal of martial art fights with the hero effortlessly wielding a sword in both hands. Musashi created and mastered that fighting style. And his peers laughed and mocked him, “Well that’s never going to catch on!”
The pursuit of craftsmanship, in any endeavour, is a noble pursuit.
My Do-It-Yourself Carpentry – Plan and Vision:
Part 1 and Part 2 of this Journal explained my current DIY Project. That is, in undertaking a substantial DIY home renovation I’m taking the opportunity to document my learnings, setbacks, successes and ponder the relevance of humble DIY and life affirming principles in general. So, what is the major plan that I am pursuing? The one Musashi suggests I can pursue with “True Measure“:
Well, ‘She Who Must be Obeyed’, has decided she no longer has need of one of the major walls in our 1890’s home. Just how hard can that be?
Overcoming Setbacks – Carpentry Problem Solving and Resilience:
“The comparison with carpentry is through the connection with houses. The carpenter uses a master plan of the building, and the Way of strategy is similar in this manner of planning.” Musashi, 1643 ‘The Book of Five Rings’.
One of the many challenges of renovating houses is the unknowns: rotten timber, termite or water damage, asbestos, or simply inadequate previous construction. And regardless of your planning, the extent of such can never be adequately known until demolition commences. In this case the eternal optimist in me hoped the existing beam would continue over the wall to be removed. But as you see the beam sits on the edge of the wall, removing the wall would collapse the beam and hence the roof and wall supported by it – Technically called a setback!
The life principle of resilience required the problem to be analyzed, and a solution implemented. Replace that beam?
A Humble Carpentry Solution:
The solution was to manufacture a strengthening beam by combining two lengths of 185 x 35 kiln dried pine. This was then stitched to the existing beam with galvanized plates.
Material selection:
When this house was built in 1890 it was all Aussie hardwood, a strong durable material. But unfortunately sourcing it destroyed old growth forests. And only the finest timber kept everything else was simply burnt. I don’t find this acceptable in 2024.
The softwood timber used is plantation grown, kiln dried reducing shrinkage and readily replaced with relatively fast growth cycles.
Fast grown softwood is not as strong as the old school hardwood. Timber strength is designated by a ‘F’ Rating. This softwood F7, the existing hardwood in 1890 F14, but 130 years latter sitting in a dry roof space, slowly curing, as high as F50.
I compensated for weaker timber by using a deeper section and stitching two lengths together. The extra height required was no issue. The completed pine beam weighed 15 kilograms, readily handled, an important planning aspect since I work on my ‘Pat Malone’. And equivalent kiln dried hardwood beam would be 30 kilograms and three times the price.
Budgets and Planning:
One strategic benefit of DIY is you can potentially save a lot of money.
The solution above cost me:
Timber $65 AUD,
Nails and connectors $40 AUS, and
And most importantly minimal delay to my programme.
The scenario of having such a setback whilst having contracted to a building contractor:
Work stops,
A structural engineer would be consulted,
A structural engineering solution developed and documented,
Material sourced,
Work recommences,
Budget: Professional fees, Builder’s markup, Builders margin – Say $2000 AUD, and
Time delay? – two to three weeks.
Conclusion:
DIY can be very frustrating! But perseverance brings experience. And experience makes you just that little bit more resilient.
How do you become proficient with tools? Use them. No one moved anywhere near mastery of any human endeavour without both failure, and more practice – the resilience to have another go. I’m pretty certain that Miyamoto Musashi did not quickly master fighting with a samurai sword in each hand.
This is Part 2 of my journal documenting a rather large and complex DIY planning project I have undertaken, I guess in my retirement I have nothing better to do. After all there is only so much fishing one man can squeeze into his life – How I wish. Part 1 available here expands on my motivations.
Well, ‘She who must be obeyed’ and I have literally spent 12 months pontificating, arguing, drawing, deciding, then changing our minds.
The first important fact to consider with existing houses is the extent of the existing space. Financial efficiency stems from working with what you have got – that simple. Accepting your existing resources and physical limitations, and then moving forward with a plan, is also a fundamental life tactic. In a reno the cruel fact of life is that every extra square metre of floor plan you build means more $. So don’t build extra space unless there remains no workable compromise solution within your existing walls.
So, the DIY Planning Journey:
Just start sketching and recording ideas, starting the DIY planning journey starts with but one step.
There is no such thing as a bad idea. What? Well, the journey to a solution often involves documenting what simply is bad, indifferent or impractical. At least you know now what you don’t like.
On this project I literally have sketch books full of silly concepts. And though I’m an Architect, I chose to simply use the basic Publisher package available on all our laptops. Designing your DIY project does not need fancy software! Keep it silly simple! The most important thing being to use a medium that all involved in the design can understand – Scrapbooks, photos, samples, whatever it takes to ensure that communication is effective.
This concept was rejected as not providing sufficient space in the new Kitchen. However, it allowed us to lock in certain strategic decisions:
Building a new Laundry was essential as it provided a second bathroom, always missing from the old 1890’s house,
A new Laundry would provide toilet and showering facilities whilst the existing Bathroom was demolished and refunctioned as a Ensuite, and
The new Laundry allowed the existing Bathroom to become a Ensuite to the Master Bedroom.
Always be mindful that rejected ideas may hold part of final solution.
And the DIY Rejections Continued:
This concept provided a workable large kitchen. But we decided having a Kitchen directly opposite the Master Bedroom was not so brilliant.
It’s worth noting my home is a Country retirement home. There are no resident children, just one still hard working from home businesswoman, and one retired want to be Country Squire, with too much time on his hands! So, in some ways the old 1890’s farmhouse is morphing into an open plan unit or villa.
The Final DIY Planning Solution:
This is the final outcome. Its construction will be the subject of this journal.
As a rule of thumb, the longer you spending arguing over design the better outcome.
Preparation:
I don’t have a workshop. Typically, in the past, I’ve made do with relocatable sawhorses. But in my Preparation Planning I considered the scale of what I had committed to:
Cutting kitchen doors, gables and large wall and ceiling claddings,
Cutting and prepping hanging beams, and joists required to remove a wall that separates the existing Kitchen and Lounge, and
Cutting and assembling Kitchen joinery drawer and cupboard fronts, kitchen carcasses, etc.
Well, some crappy wobbly sawhorses just would not cut it!
Critical preparation a solid 2400 x 1200 work bench. Materials required:
Two good quality adjustable trestle horses,
2400 x 1200 x 20 mm thick sheet of craftwood,
Six 2400 x 70 mm pine wall studs, and
Wood screws.
Total cost under $300 AUD, worth every cent!
I also rigged up two LED floodlights and a multiple power outlet on the ceiling of this deck, which is conveniently directly accessible to the DIY Kitchen Project. I’m expecting some long nights. Note to self – Where’s the bar fridge.
PS: I also did not tell ‘She Who Must be Obeyed’ that I was knicking her deck for the duration. Planning advice # 1 – Often faster to ask for forgiveness then permission.
Conclusion:
So now I’ve completed the Planning, executed my Preparation, well let’s crack on!
I’ve always had a passion for building stuff. Outside my professional construction career, I have actively engaged my whole life in ‘Do It Yourself’ (DIY) projects. As a kid I hung around dad’s garage workshop. By sixteen I was well accustomed to rebuilding car brakes, suspensions and engines.
I brought my first house at 23. Never opened a tin of paint before then, let alone renovated a house.
I paid $75,000 AUD for that house, three times my annual wage as a graduate Architect in 1986. In 2024 the median house price in that same City is $910,000 with a median wage being $85,000. I was very lucky!
After a lick of paint, some new carpet, a ‘wonder kid’ new kitchen (totally impractical but it looked funky), well I sold that house twelve months latter for $125,000. I made two years wages completely tax free! Needless to say, I was hooked on renovating crappy old houses and selling them on. I followed that passion for 40 years.
Life Lessons Learnt from DIY:
Of all the things I discovered that are as applicable to successful DIY as they are to life in general, I would include the following:
Preparation,
Planning,
Have the right tools,
Be resilient, expect things to go wrong, learn how to adapt,
Have and follow a vision, and
Don’t be afraid to ask the help of experienced experts.
Current Project DIY on a Grand Scale:
My current, and hopefully last project, is a 1890’s farmhouse I purchased some 20 years previously. I’m undertaking part refurbishment part extension. Phase 1 includes remodeling a rather tired old kitchen.
It’s all DIY. Though I have an electrician undertaking the seriously dangerous stuff.
Since it’s keeping me rather busy, I don’t have time for my usual Postcard history dabblings – So I thought I would maintain a journal of my experiences. Yes, some of my thoughts on life, and some insight into successful DIY for beginners.
It’s not well known that old Winnie was a qualified brick layer.
Winston in his long and turbulent political life had periods of deep depression, and periods out of power in the political wilderness. In such times he built walls, small cottages and ponds at his home. He found solitude in humble labour, it quieted his troubled soul, it gave him great satisfaction.
Indeed, for many DIY does precisely that, I have certainly experienced the same outcomes.
Then there is the practical benefit of doing it yourself – dollars saved. Building today is very expensive. And renovations are particularly so. Builders find them risky, too many potential unknowns, damp, leaking roofs and walls, termites, bad footings and so on. And old 1890’s farmhouses, well they a crooked, old hardwood is well very hard, and difficult to drill and work around.
On my mother’s side I was always told my ancestors left Kilkenny, Ireland around 1860. First to New Zealand then settling in the State of Queensland, Australia. In 1860 Queensland was an awful long way from Van Diemen’s Land, now the Australian State of Tasmania. Was my family connected to Van Diemen’s Land? And why flee Ireland seeking refuge in New Zealand?
New Zealand was still in a war, trying to steal the Country from the native Mauri people – surely Ireland was not that bad, that it was preferable to move to the other end of the Planet into a colonial war zone? Well Ireland was still suffering from the effect of several potato famine, about half the Irish had died or joined the diaspora seeking a future and survival abroad. But still New Zealand in 1860, there weren’t even many ‘Micks’ there!
Recently I started researching the ‘Irish Republican Brotherhood (IRB)‘. In around 1858 British Army Intelligence had cracked open that Irish secret society. Another example of traditionally how experienced the British Army was at infiltrating insurgency movements. Though this time they had for years missed the growth of IRB operatives within their own British ranks. An underground Guerilla Army of around 80,000 formal recruits.
Off to Tassie seeking answers.
The British Army commenced a round up, local imprisonment and for some, transportation for life Down Under to Van Diemen’s Land. 1860, Kilkenny was a hotbed of Republican resistance. My Australian Catholic Irish family were still proudly republican down to those I grew up with. So, do I come from Fenian guerrilla independence resistance? Or terrorists in other’s views! Did my ancestors bolt to avoid the door kick in at dawn? Were they indeed rounded up and sent Down Under for their political views?
I’m not sure yet. So, continuing my personal journey of discovery, I’m in Port Arthur, Tasmania, Australia’s early convict prison and about its most southerly European settlement.
If you’re ever Down Under pop down to Tassie. With a population of 570,000, ‘Tassie’ is indeed small. Yet that’s a good thing, small enough to suffer no vehicle or pedestrian congestion, large enough and old enough to be very interesting. Two of its primary assets are pristine wilderness and heritage.
Ghosts and spirits of Convicts passed.
But be warned it’s rather spooky! What with the spirits of dispossessed First Nations People and British Convicts – There’s many reasons for disgruntled spirits to seek some payback! But on this day, it’s a balmy 4 degrees Celsius with crystal clear sky: I’m ignoring the ghosts, instead pondering a temporal local spirit or two that would make a Scot say: “Those bloody Aussies can make a superb wee dram!”
Beautiful, yet cold day – Need some spirits to keep the Spirits at bay.
Where is Port Arthur, Tasmania?
In 1866 an unwilling ‘tourist’ described Port Arthur as follows:
“To find a prison in one of the loveliest spots formed by nature in one of her loneliest solitudes creates a revulsion of feeling I cannot describe.”
Unknown Irish Political Prisoner
Tasmania, Australia, or until 1840, ‘Van Diemen’s Land’, is a beautiful place to this day. Tasmania is home to Port Arthur, one of Australia’s notorious convict prisons. Port Arthur is about as far South as European occupation in Australia – No land mass separates it from the South Pole, just a huge wild cold Southern Ocean. Consequently, Port Arthur can be bitterly cold and wet. Typical of Australia, Tasmanian suffers awful drought and is at risk of ravaging by bushfires. Indeed, the ruins you see in this Postcard are the consequence of bushfires from 1897.
Port Arthur is readily accessible by aircraft or a large vehicle ferry. I flew from my home in Queensland. It cost about $600 (AUD) return and takes 2.5 hours. The ferry from Melbourne, capital of the mainland State of Victoria immediately adjacent Tasmania, is popular, but first you need to get there, and second you need to cross the Bass Strait. Matthew Flinders proved the Bass Strait existed in 1798. Matthew quite rightly called the strait, the most dangerous water on the Planet.
Port Arthur Australia’s Notorious Convict Prison.
Van Diemen’s Land and Port Arthur.
Why did Britain occupy Van Diemen’s Land?
The answer is simple – International politics! In 1770, Lieutenant James Cook will chart the east coast of Australia. He claimed it for Great Britain, ignoring the First Nations People who had been there for 60,000 years. The First Fleet of British ships arrived at Botany Bay, Australia on 26 January 1788 to establish a Penal Colony. But other Europeans had previously been eyeing parts of Australia, specifically Van Diemen’s Land (Tasmania).
Explorer Abel Tasman discovered Tasmania in 1642, working under the sponsorship of the Governor-General of the Dutch East Indies. In January 1793, a French expedition anchored near Port Arthur, exploring the area for a period of five weeks. In 1802 and 1803, another French expedition explored the region adjacent Port Arthur as well as charting the area Lieutenant Matthew Flinders had previously named Bass Strait.
Britain could not tolerate such interest from France. Consequently, in August 1803, the Govenor of the mainland colony established a military outpost on the Derwent River, now Hobart the capital of Tasmania. Thus, Britian believed it had forestalled any claims to the island arising from the activities of the French explorers.
First Nations People and Tasmania.
Before the British arrival, there were an estimated 3,000 – 15,000 First Nation Tasmanians. Their population suffered a drastic drop in numbers within three decades, so that by 1835 only some 400 full-blooded First Nations people survived. Incarcerated in camps where all but 47 die by 1847. As on mainland Australia, introduced disease claimed thousands of lives. Starvation due to European’s decimating traditional food sources, seals and kangaroo – easy prey to gun powder weapons. However, an active genocide occurred as the trespassing British Government and a desire of settlers for land, simply destroyed the existing inhabitants of Tasmania.
1870 – The last four Tasmanian First Nations People.
And what of the Transported Convicts?
By 1710 Britain decided to rid itself of the ‘Criminal Classes’, so they sent them to the future United States. The War of Independence closed that opportunity, so eventually Australia became the new destination. You don’t need to look far into transportation to see the rampant hypocrisy of the white Christian ruling class. For indeed this ‘Criminal Class’, were largely the agricultural workers, made redundant by the Industrial Revolution. Already living a subsistence existence laboring in the production of crops, the introduction of machinery made their labour redundant. Many fled to the big cities, but these opportunities working in mechanized factories only offered very long hours, barely subsistence wages, workplace danger, poor food, and a polluted, overcrowded environment.
The crimes of most convicts were petty by our standards: Stealing food, pick pocketing, and frequently amongst the women, stealing a hankie or scarf. So, whilst the Industrial Revolution created a new wealthy Merchant Class and boosted an existing Professional Class: Bookkeepers, architects, engineers, etc. – It completely destroyed a rural Working Class whose lives had not really changed much in centuries.
18th Century London – The Benefit of Industrialization.
Convict Transportation Downunder – The first Convicts arrive:
26 January 1788, the First Fleet arrived in Australia, carrying 1400 people: Marines, sailors, civil administration, and free settlers, of whom 796 were convicts. The 600 male and 196 female convicts had languished after sentence locked in rotting old British ships. After surviving six months at sea, they found themselves on a foreign shore, most never to return.
We often imagine such convicts locked in our contemporary image of prison. But for these convicts, there were no prisons, they simply lived in tents or rough built huts. Not till much latter were prisons, which we would recognise, such as Port Arthur actually constructed. None too eager British Marines will provide security. The Marines themselves were a scruffy lot, for Britain’s Navy had taken the opportunity to also rid itself of troublemakers. Troublesome soldiers and marines will be a constant theme in the new colony. British officers, marines and soldiers will create Australia’s first and only military coup in 1808 when the Government of William Bligh, of Mutiny on the Bounty fame, is overthrown.
So, for many convicts, arrival in Australia meant open space, fresh air and at least some relative freedom. Sustenance will be a problem. The first colony will nearly starve until they learn to harvest the bounty of a new Country and what crops to grow. But we need to retain the context of where this ‘Criminal Class’ came from, risking starvation in Australia was perhaps preferable to starvation in their country of birth.
Arriving in Australia – For many the worst was behind them.
Van Diemen’s Land – Male Convicts go to work:
Food and shelter were the most pressing priorities. Convicts were quickly separated according to skill sets – farmers, fisherman, and carpenters being looked on favorably. Convicts in these categories, if they were well behaved, rarely spent time in chains, though the military guard was ever present. Punishment was harsh and brutal. Many convicts would have ‘interviews’ with the ‘Cat of Nine Tails’, the British Military flogging with a nine roped lash. For male convicts lacking such critical skills, having only their labour, days were spent in chain gangs, building roads, cutting and hauling timber. Always the marines were present and always the gangs were chained at the ankles.
Unskilled Convict Male Labour – The Chain Gang.
And what of Convict Women?
Anne Summer’s 1975 publication, ‘Damned Whores and God’s Police‘, well describes the lot of Australia’s convict women. The first grouping is self-explanatory if not all that accurate. What of God’s Police? In the latter Anne was describing the outcome for many. In a male orientated colony, with at the social bottom: uneducated, unskilled ex-convicts, sailors and common soldiers, none of whom had any money let alone investment capital, versus a controlling hierarchy of comparatively wealthy,well-educated military officers, public servants and increasing privately funded settlers – wives were in big demand, the status quo hierarchy having the first pick.
Consequently, many female convicts, upon arrival, immediately were sent to established households as domestic servants. Not one day of the original sentence actually will be served in what we would recognise as prisons conditions. Servants quickly became lovers, carers of children from previous deceased wives, and then wives and partners in business, property investment and farming. They became ‘God’s Police’, upstanding morale defenders of Britain’s transported society. So, for many convict women, transportation Down Under provided opportunities and a quality of life they could never have attained in Britian.
Foundational role of Women in Australia.
Van Diemen’s Land and Irish Political Prisoners?
40,000 Irish convicts were transported to Australia between 1791 and 1867. The most common offence was stealing and only 600 were transported for the ‘political’ crimes of treason-felony and mutinous conduct. The largest group arrived in New South Wales in 1798-1806, following the United Irishmen uprisings against British rule. The leaders of the brief ‘Young Ireland’ uprising of 1848 were convicted and sent to Port Arthur. In 1867, 62 Fenians (members of the Irish Republican Brotherhood) were convicted of treason-felony and mutinous conduct and were transported to Western Australia.
In our contemporary ‘enlightenment’ its perhaps difficult to understand that transportation, as opposed to execution, showed considerable leniency on behalf of Britain. By comparison the Easter Rising in April 1916, would see 16 Irish Republicans executed by firing squad by order of a British Military Court Martial. The Court was held in secret and none of the accused allowed defence representation. 3,430 were arrested, some held until June 1918, all without trial.
So, it seems there was considerable support in Mid 19th Century Britain, for Irish Republicanism, enough to pressure authorities to treat lightly those convicted of treason. This becomes clear when we look at the Young Ireland movement that found themselves in Port Arthur.
Port Arthur and the ‘Young Ireland Traitors’
William Smith O’Brien was the leader of the Young Ireland uprising. Convicted of Treason/Sedition, his death sentence was commuted to transportation to Port Arthur, after Petitions for Clemency were signed by 70,000 people in Ireland and 10,000 people in England. Upon arrival in Van Diemen’s Land, O’Brien and his three fellow traitors, were immediately offered a ‘Ticket of Leave’, effective parole and the right to live free in society. O’Brien refused and was imprisoned, well kind off! A small but quaint cottage was built for O’Brien. He latter accepted a Ticket of Leave, after lobbying from the local press.
O’Brien’s Cottage – The lightest penalty for treason in British History.
London’s hierarchy seemed not to appreciate that sending your unwanted, especially the troublesome Irish, too the other end of the Planet, was all well and good. But a ground swell of Irish Republicanism became established Down Under. Traitors like O’Brien were supported by the local newspapers, and off course a substantial part of society who were Irish and had themselves been transported. Both Irish Republicanism, and the tension between British Anglicanism and Irish Catholicism became a significant element in Australian life. I felt the tail end of it in the 1970’s. These days most Australians are agnostic at best, and more likely to fight over a Rugby League match.
In Search of My Own Beginnings.
Although I have not as yet discovered at Port Arthur a relative of political prisoner status. And I acknowledge it’s perhaps distinctly Australian, to desire to prove my existence stems from a common convict, let alone one transported for treason. I have found a likely suspect though in one John Walsh transported for the grievous crime of knicking six potatoes!
Convict # 26397 – John Walsh – Potato thief!
John Walsh (Walsh is my Mother’s Maiden Name) was Roman Catholic and born in Kilkenny. At the time of his trial in 1852 there were 3000 Roman Catholics registered with the parishes in Kilkenny. My own empirical experience of living in a rural town of 10,000, proves that if you share a surname, well your definitely related.
This is simple conjecture on my part, but it’s possible that this is where my journey as an Australian started. If nothing else John serves as an example of the humble foundation stock from what successful Countries are often made. Just imagine – Dispossessed by the Industrial Revolution from your simple life of agricultural labour, watching your loved ones starve and die as yet another potato cropped failed, and then sent to the arse end of the world for knicking a few dollars’ worth of spuds!
Conclusion – Lesson’s from Van Diemen’s Land:
If you don’t know where you have been, how can you navigate the future:
Despite harsh punishment if caught, some convicts did escape, but there was nowhere to run. Tasmania still remains a largely wild natural place full of dangerous snakes, wombats, Tasmanian devils, wallabies and other abundant wildlife and edible flora. But knowledge and tools are required. Escaped convicts had little such survival know how. Many returned and accepted several dozen ‘interviews’ with the ‘Cat of Nine Tails’, solitary confinement and more years on their sentence.
Solitary Confinement – Many simply went mad.
Some were adopted by First Nations People, the legitimate owners and custodians of the Land. Who often had sympathy for escaped convicts, from a safe distance they had seen how British Authorities brutalized, they did not like it. I can’t help but wonder just who were the ‘savages’?
Those convicts became the genetic seed pool of contemporary Australia. Yet we tried for generations to erase the ‘Convict Stain’. However, from around 1950 a new view emerged. Today convict heritage is quite a badge of honor – Yet another quirky Australia cultural tradition. And contemporary Tasmania?
Well, I’ve eaten amazing ‘Goat Curry, Garlic Naan, and Rice’ at a crappy shopping mall in one of Hobart’s poorest neighborhoods. Saturday brunch – ‘Persian Lamb, Mint and Yogurt Turkish Wrap’, accompanied by Chilean Tempura Mushrooms. And one of the best Vietnamese Pho and BBQ Crispy Pork in a cheap student cafe.
From such beginnings, Nations can rise and seek something better. What will be required? Knowing where you’ve been, accepting it and making a choice to proactively embrace change, and acceptance of all.
(This Postcard was written in Kuta, Bali, Indonesia on the Island of the Gods in October 2023.)
I arrived in Bali, the ‘Island of the Gods’, several days previously. The intent of this Post is to discuss the relationship between spiritualism and eating. In Bali, compared to my Australian home country, evidence of spiritualism abounds. But it soon becomes apparent that Balinese spiritualism is intrinsically connected to daily food and eating. Arriving at my accommodation was embarrassing as I immediately stood on a daily offering called canang sari. Through your journey you will encounter these as they are placed around nearly every doorway, intersection, temple, and upon all things that need protection.
Canang sari are comprised of edible food, additionally flowers, money, and even cigarettes. In this manner the Balinese seek to placate the multitude of gods, spirits, and demons that surround them. It’s a good starting point for my Postcard as I will be discussing primarily Balinese spiritualism and eating. However, I will follow my pattern of discussing Balinese food in some historical and cultural context.
A Canang Sari, the basic daily expression of Balinese spiritualism.
Spiritualism, eating and me.
Ok, this is me. Obviously not in Indonesia, but in Brisbane, Australia August 2023, at the Royal Agricultural Exhibition. About to eat a ‘Dagwood Dog’ or ‘Pluto Pup’, or if your Scottish, a deep fried saveloy. I agree, not the finest United States cultural element Australia has ever borrowed. As an illustration it does suggest I am not all that fussy about what I consume. Equally important, you can see I am hardly short of calorific intake. Consequently, these days I do pay attention to the quantity and quality of what I consume. Perhaps surprisingly this photograph has a very Balinese like spiritual side to what appears to be a rather poor eating choice. How is that so? Let me explain.
Dagwood Dogs, Spiritualism, and Family.
I first visited the Royal Agricultural Exhibition around 1972, I was 10, and accompanied by Grandmother. My mum’s family after arriving from Ireland in 1860, settled in a rural farming and grazing area. They were country people through and through. So, the Exhibition adventure was one of tagging along with Gran as we seemingly visited all her network, and friend’s exhibits. Bulls, cows, horse, plows, tractors, pigs, and chooks: I could name them all, and I learnt what all their poo smelt like!
This is the first time I realized, that by birth I was connected to an extended family of people, who I knew nothing about. Yet my Gran obviously had an extensive network, one she valued and respected, one she had very strong connections with.
My youngest daughter first accompanied me to the Exhibition around age 14, introduced me to the delight of the Pluto Pup. Since then, some 16 years, it’s always the same thing, “Pluto Pup time”!
This is an old Australian dude, trying to describe the role of food and family in Balinese life and spiritualism. IE: The Balinese are primarily Hindu, and each person has a deep spiritual connection to past ancestors, direct and extended family. Food being the medium by which daily life, marriage, deaths, and off course their multitude of Gods, demons and spirits are celebrated.
My Grandmother was a real Bull Artist, my inheritance.
Food and Religion.
Further tying food and faith together are moments of celebration, most notably, the Galungan Festival. During this period, dishes like Lawar (a traditional mixed salad with spices), Satay Lilit (minced seafood satay), and Babi Guling (suckling pig) orchestrate a culinary symphony which ignites the senses while paying respects to the divine. It’s a vivid, delicious example of how food plays more than a simple sustenance role in Balinese culture. Balinese food is very seductive, a subject I’ve discussed previously. Follow this link please to, ‘Seductive Eating on the Island of the Devil Demons‘.
An interesting facet about Balinese cuisine is the strong influence of Indian and Chinese cultures, evidenced by the liberal use of spices and ingredients like chilies, turmeric, galangal, and soy sauce. Many of these were introduced through trade and migration waves several centuries ago. Such influence is most evident in dishes such as Lawar and Babi Guling.
Spiritualism and Eating: Classic dishes.
Firstly, there’s Babi Guling, a sumptuous roast pig dish, possibly the most iconic of Balinese meals. The pig is stuffed with aromatic spices and roasted for hours on a spit, resulting in succulent meat with a crispy skin. You’ll know you’re near a Babi Guling vendor from the tantalizing smell alone!
Babi Guling – Balinese Sacred Dish
Next up is Ayam Be tutu. This dish consists of chicken or duck slow cooked to perfection in a rich blend of local spices, then wrapped in a banana leaf. The result? A tender, flavorsome treat that falls off the bone.
Ayam Be tutu – Roast Chicken just nothing like your English Grandmothers.
For lovers of spice, Sambal Matah is a must-try. This raw chili sauce, bursting with shallots and lemongrass, pairs excellently with grilled meats and seafood. Its potent heat might surprise you but is sure to keep you coming back for more.
Sambal Matah – By comparison a Casaer Salad is just lame.
Lastly, don’t forget to try the Jaje Bali. This assortment of colorful, bite-sized desserts, crafted from rice flour, fruit, and coconut, is the perfect sweet ending to any Balinese meal.
Jaje Bali – Sweet Desert a celebration of Spiritualism and Eating.
Spiritualism and Eating – Balinese style, a rich cultural history.
Not only are these dishes mouth-wateringly delicious, but they also offer a beautiful peek into the rich cultural tapestry that Bali has to offer. Each dish is a testament to the island’s history, agricultural bounty, and the Balinese peoples deep respect for nature.
Every aspect of Balinese life is steeped in spiritual symbolism, and food is no exception. The process of preparing meals, from selecting ingredients to the cooking techniques used, is not a casual act but a spiritual one. Ingredients are chosen with care, dishes are cooked with intention, and meals are consumed with gratitude to the gods, showcasing a nexus of spirituality and sustenance.
One prevalent practice is the preparation of ‘Banten’, or food offerings to the gods. Often, these offerings include a delicate balance of sweet, salty, bitter, and spicy elements, mirroring the Balinese spiritual philosophy of Tri Hita Karana, which emphasizes harmony with the gods, with fellow humans, and with nature. These food offerings are a tangible expression of this belief system, showing the intricate relationship between Balinese spiritualism and eating. Banten are carried in the numerous ceremonial processions that punctuate Balinese life.
You cannot visit Bali without encountering Ceremony, it regular dictates life.
Canang sari – The daily spiritual offering. Eating yes, but by the local squirrels and birds.
Though large intricate Banten being carried in processions are common, there is a daily every day, thrice a day offering – Canang sari. These are everywhere. On small altars, and at the entry ways of shops, cafe and accommodation. Indeed, if you want your tourist dollar to be spent with the local Balinese, always ensure the places you frequent have Canang sari on the footpath.
Canang sari, are made from palm leaves and filled with a variety of items, including food. This fascinating local custom magnifies the spiritualism and eating associated with Balinese food and represents one of the many ways in which spirituality is deeply etched into the evolving foodways of the Balinese people. Food is seen as a gift from the gods, a symbol of life’s energy, and an offering to the divine. In essence, the significance of food in Balinese culture is a testament to the local people’s profound appreciation towards nature and a divine validation of their religious beliefs.
I am always profoundly impressed watching the young ladies who work in my accommodation make their thrice daily offerings. Young people, working long hours, 24-day working months, around $50AUD per month. Yet, they solemnly with grace, gratitude and dignity, quietly without fuss make their personal connection with their Gods, demons and spirits. It’s a spiritual interlude in a at times crazy commercial focused society. It bothers no one that just as quickly the local squirrels and birds descend to the available feast. It seems humble local animals are also entitled to their slice of spiritualism and eating.
Balinese Daily Offerings -The Canang sari.
Death and Rebirth – A whole lot of dressing up, colour, food, drinking and celebration.
I was staying in Amed, a smallish traditional fishing village some 150 kilometres from Kuta the tourist hub. The traditional Hindu Balinese are extremely open to outsiders and ever keen to share their spiritual culture. Actually, in my Indonesian adventures outside of Bali, I have generally found all Indonesians to be friendly, accommodating, curious and oh so accepting of cultural differences. I’ve written of such experiences in the primarily Muslim city of Yogyakarta. Click this link for access to, ‘Rock Star Antics -Spiritualism Indonesia‘.
So it was that I stumbled into a funeral ceremony. One of the most distinctive aspects of Balinese mourning is the ‘Ngaben’ ceremony, also known as the ‘cremation ceremony’. Unlike Western traditions where funerals are a somber affair, in Bali, it’s a colorful and joyous celebration of the deceased’s journey to the afterlife. Shocking to my Western sensibilities was the presence of the deceased, indeed the presence of the deceased actually being cremated, surrounded by a large group of family and friends.
Balinese Cremation Ceremony – Humble Fisherman, but no less Dignified.
Similarities and differences to my own cultural past.
I’ve been to many funerals, mainly Irish Catholic. Men and boys in black suits, women in black dresses, some hidden by veils, and lots of crying. The sad pall bearer procession as old men carry a mate on his last journey. And yes, traditional Irish Catholic funerals have a distinct cultural spiritualism, accompanied by eating and certainly much drinking. This was nothing like that!
For the women it was an opportunity to dress up in a multitude of colours. All wearing the traditional ‘Kebaya’, and all carrying freshly made Banten on their heads.
Balinese Cremation – Banten Offerings, Food for the Spirits.
Passing to the other side is hard work – Food, drink and celebration is required.
The purpose of this festive event is to ensure the smooth transition of the soul from the physical world to the spiritual kingdom. Balinese Hindus believe that a proper send-off, filled with laughter and music, helps the soul to detach from the earthly realm more easily. There should not be any tears of sadness, for that will hinder the soul from reaching the next life.
Balinese Hindus hold strong beliefs in reincarnation. They believe that the soul does not perish but is reborn into a new form. Therefore, the rituals surrounding death are viewed as a part of this ongoing cycle. The cremation ceremony, with its festive nature, serves to celebrate the soul’s journey to its next life. It’s seen as an opportunity for the soul to be released from its earthly ties and start afresh in a new existence. This perspective on death and reincarnation highlights the Balinese people’s philosophical outlook on the continuity of life beyond physical existence.
Banten and Canang sari were in abundance. As were tables full of glorious Balinese food, and jugs of Arak, a local liquor made from fermented palm tree sap – moonshine if you like! I had experienced many a drunken Irish wake, but this was pure celebration. Laughter and joy to see the departed progress into a new abundant life. It was hard not to be moved and yes drawn into such a culture of celebrating death and spiritualism with eating and drinking in such a joyful celebratory manner.
A Balinese Cremation is accompanied by huge bundle of offerings.
The not so Spiritual side of Eating in Bali.
On returning to my villa in Amed, welcome to Bali Belly! What is Bali Belly? Everyone seems to get it no matter how careful you are with hygiene. Tap water is a no right across Indonesia. I’ve travelled Indonesia extensively, I’m careful, but there I was – stuck in my Villa with a toilet ever close. Just as well the Villa had amazing views.
The fishing village of Amed Indonesia – Spectacular views, Bali Belly or otherwise.
So, I spent three days recovering from the cremation ceremony and no doubt the moonshine. My Balinese hosts were supportive, they too suffer Bali Belly, all the time! As I said the not so advertised aspect of spiritualism and eating in Bali. They fed me twice daily steamed rice with poached Mahi Mahi fish, there go to cure. Hadly a hardship.
I had plenty of time to read and write, indeed I wrote the first draft of this Postcard, naked but a sarong, black coffee and water.
Laid up with Bali Belly – Spectacular view, time to read and write.
I also had time to really interact with my Balinese Hindu hosts, and that really turned into a spiritual experience.
Spiritualism – An Aussie Non-Believer delves into Balinese Hindu Prayer.
Several days after the cremation ceremony I was drinking black coffee in the restaurant of my villa. Chatting with my hosts, in my broken Bahasa Indonesian and what passes for English in Australia, a question occurred to me. A question that only perhaps a blunt, forthright, and perhaps ignorant Aussie would ask. “Why do the staff in this villa complex, not perform daily ceremony?”“I never, unusually for me, trip over Canang sari offerings.” The response was surprising:
“Oh, we are lazy Hindus.” There was much laughter, perhaps a little embarrassment. The notable aspect of Balinese Hindu’s is their irrepressible sense of humour. I would like to think that is one reason they generally get on so well with my Countryman. Also, why they have been so tolerating of our often loud and boisterous behaviour. Then immediately they invited me to conduct morning ceremony the next day. So, I fronted up, still nauseous, still conscious of being close to a toilet, but also very excited. Let the preparation begin.
Wayan assisted my Preparation – Sarong, waist scarf and head gear.
Wayan provides Spiritual Instruction on undertaking morning ritual.
Wayan’s instructions were very simple. No solemnity, no dogma. “Clear your mind, think of your family, think of your loved ones, reflect on your ancestors.” Now I started to understand, that at least for these humble fishing villagers, daily spiritualism was all about family, past and present. No mention of the Hindu Gods, spirits, and even demons that inhabit the Hindu theological world. Herein ended the instruction, we were set.
Wayan and me. Attired and equipped with Canang sari and plenty of incense.
Morning ritual commences.
I did not however consider that Wayan would lead me up and down the cliff face on which the villa complex resided. It was very hot and humid, and I was not feeling all that spectacular. As we visited big temples, small altars, all with spectacular ocean views, well I was feeling non too spiritual. But I hoisted up my sarong and gamely followed.
Not sure if the smiling was repressing my nausea.
I really thought I would simply accompany Wayan, but no he encouraged me to conduct the offerings. Place the Canang sari, speak to your family and ancestors, place the incense in a specific position, three splashes of holy water whilst conducting dialogue with that family, a moment of reflection – Offering completed.
Speaking with my ancestors.
Our final offering was made adjacent a swimming pool, right next to my own villa. Now I was thinking, well at least I can use a toilet I’m very familiar with! As I bent to conduct the process described above, I do recall asking my ancestors: “Please, give me a hand here, our Irish Catholic family is going to be highly embarrassed should I collapse headfirst under water in a very informal baptism”.
My final morning offering – Spectacular location.
With that the morning offering was complete. Though I returned with Wayan to the restaurant to the cheers, hugs, laughter, and celebrations of my gracious assembled hosts. One final personal blessing by Wayan, I was anointed with rice and a sacred hibiscus flower. Now I really needed a toilet and the spiritual embrace of a tall cold icy glass of spirits, no not moonshine, but Sailor Jerry’s spiced rum. Spiritualism is tiring business!
More smiles and the final blessing – Actually I was very proud and happy.
Conclusion: Spiritualism and eating.
So, what did I learn along this Indonesia journey?
There is nothing intrinsically spiritual about food itself. But there is spirituality associated with food. The Balinese I was lucky to share this experience with are relatively poor by Indonesian standards. Certainly, much so by Australian standards. During Covid, as Indonesia shut down, everyone from Amed returned home to their local fishing villages. Tourist income stopped. But the family village is always spiritual home, and always provides shelter in times of duress.
Food was simple. Boiled rice from the family paddy field. Grilled pilchards captured by the family generations old fishing boat. Grandparents, parents, kids, cousins, wives of sons – They all just got on with it. The daily rituals of offerings continued. Gratitude prevailed.
I remain convinced that the spiritual aspect of food in Bali, is as much about family bonding as anything else. The hours spent with parents and kids, preparing spices and condiments. Grandparents passing on the intricate techniques of preparing Banten and Canang sari to their grandkids. And off course the daily offerings made in profound gratitude for what you have.
Perhaps at the end of the day Family and Gratitude captures human spiritualism at its most profound.
Feeling very grumpy today! Postcard # 33 and nothing to write about. It has been said that the first writing is always autobiographical, well I’m 40,000 words in since Postcard # 1 on Sept 09, 2022, and not a thing to say, long life or otherwise.
I turned to Ernest Hemingway for guidance:
The Grumpy Old Man of the Sea.
Well, that just made me grumpy and depressed! I’m 61 Earnest, how much more living do I need to do? Off course this maxim was Ernest’s excuse for running around the world. Working as an ambulance driving medic in the 1936 Spanish Civil War, getting ahead of General Patton’s advance in WW2 whilst capturing German held towns, slaughtering African wildlife, walking away from crashed planes and killing really big fish. If only someone told him that was the Bi-Polar acting, not the search for something to write about.
Ernest and Grumpy Disruption.
Ernest disrupted the world with his no nonsense writing, but seriously Earnest, a little more positivity might sweeten the fact that my writing is well, stalled!
Earnest’s Writing was nothing if not to the Point!
Ernest gave me some direction, “Put on paper what I see, do it simply“. I think I’ve done that, but it only filled 21 crappy Post Cards!
OK: Let’s try writing about grumpiness!
Think you’re Grumpy, ask your partner.
Then I discussed this with my wife Lizzie, who instantly confirmed: “Write about grumpiness and cynicism, you’re a master on those subjects!” So now I was grumpy, depressed, and confronting the awareness of how shallow and transparent I obviously am!
The very young Hemingway inspired me to write about grumpiness: Lizzie was spot on as grumpiness is something I truly know and care about.
Grumpiness it is!
“All you have to do is write one true sentence. Write the truest sentence that you know.’ So finally, I would write one true sentence, and then go on from there. It was easy then because there was always one true sentence that I knew or had seen or had heard someone say.”
Ernest Hemingway. ‘A Moveable Feast’, 1964.
One sentence is easy, what about the rest of the Story?
So, there you go, perhaps not one ‘True Sentence’ but since ponderously, prevaricatingly starting this Postcard I’ve written 300 words, much ado about nothing much!
Classically human – Much ado about nothing.
So, does grumpiness have a cause? Did the ancient Greek plays of the propagandist Pericles feature Grumpy Old Men? Do external events make me grumpy? Is there a cure for grumpiness?
What is Grumpiness?
In the world of psychology and mental health, there’s no technical definition or criteria for grumpiness, Grumpiness is a mood. A mood is a prolonged emotional state, typically between a handful of minutes to several hours or even days. You can’t be grumpy for 10 seconds. That would just be an emotion.
And you probably don’t know why you are grumpy. Everyone says, “I just woke up grumpy”. Usually for no particular reason, grumpiness is mysterious!
Being a man, naturally I reacted to mysterious mumbo jumbo as, well Mumbo Jumbo: No way, there must be a logical ‘mansplaining’ reason for grumpiness, surely? Then I discovered ‘Irritable Male Syndrome’ – I got even grumpier!
Irritable Male Syndrome (IMS):
Some medical practitioners believe the stereotypical grumpy old man, may be suffering IMS, clinically called ‘Andropause’, colloquially ‘Male Menopause’. Andropause is most directly caused by a decrease in testosterone. Testosterone is the key to male reproductive development. It also factors in other male characteristics, such as muscle mass and body hair. Levels of testosterone tend to decline gradually in men starting in their 30s: And I thought the grumpiness in 30 something men was down to overworking, exhausted partners, trying to keep up with the Jones’, and large mortgages.
Having solved the riddle of my grumpiness, I presented my findings to Lizzie, who promptly said:
“You didn’t slowly become grumpy at 40, 50 or 60, you’ve always been consistently grumpy!”
My wife Lizzie.
So now I was grumpy, depressed, transparent, and trying to find solace in the fact that I was a least consistent!
Grumpy guide to weightlifting.
I’m not really into self-help books. Grinding out my morning weightlifting routine, I was pondering this IMS thing. Pondering such could not hurt, could it?
Are excellent tribal tattoos an optional requirement?
When I was a school kid, teachers often wrote on my reports, “He is consistent..”. I always thought, Ok, that’s a lame code for averagely crap at everything. Then Dwayne reminded me how the world’s view on consistent effort has positively changed.
So where did this mysterious grumpiness commence?
I’m still not finding any solace in being consistently grumpy!
The Origins of Grumpiness.
The world’s first recorded ‘Grumpy Old Man’ was Hesiod, the ancient Greek. Hesiod was such a pain in the arse, his notoriety time travelled down to us. He spent his years complaining, boasting, offering gratuitous advice and being a complete misogynist.
Hesiod – The first Grumpy Old Man.
Hesiod’s book ‘Work and Days’ time travelled down to us. In many ways it’s the first self-help book, not something you expect from grumpy old men.
Grumpy Old Men make enduring Time Travellers.
Today we are accustomed to grumpy old men supporting equal opportunisms. They give everyone an equal spray. However, Hesiod started this, letting rip on everything, he mastered and invented the grumpy old man genre.
A Grumpy man’s guide to women.
Hesiod on women:
“Do not let a flaunting woman coax and cozen and deceive you: she is after your barn. The man who trusts womankind trust deceivers.”
Hesiod. 700 BC.
Attacking half the population is definitely not self-help instruction for budding writers!
Hesiod even has advice on toilet habits:
“Never piss in the mouths of rivers which flow to the sea, nor yet in springs; but be careful to avoid this. And do not poo yourself in them: it is not well to do this“.
Hesiod. 700 BC.
The Earth’s rivers and oceans would have received help from adoption of this wise advice. Perhaps readers read Hesiod’s advice on attacking women, decided this guy was an idiot?
Hesiod keeps his most grumpy tirade for his own generation:
“The father will not agree with his children, nor the children with their father, nor guest with his host, nor comrade with comrade; nor will brother be dear to brother as aforetime. Men will dishonour their parents as they grow quickly old.”
Hesiod. 700BC.
Hesiod remains in print 2600 years after his death. Consequently, proving you can be a grumpy old bastard, and still remain relevant.
I have no idea if Hesiod suffered Irritable Male Syndrome, or if he failed to work out in the Ancient Greek Fitness Centre, which Doctor Google informs me was actually called a Gymnasium. Surely a man can be simply consistently grumpy in response to life’s vicissitudes. So, I started with a grumpy character who since my childhood I have known as a bad guy.
Vice-Admiral William Bligh.
Commander William Bligh – A right royal grumpy bastard.
William Bligh, of the ‘1789, Mutiny on the Bounty’ fame, was a right grumpy bastard. Lesser known outside Australia, William was also the 1806 Governor of the New South Wales Colony, destined to become Australia. Did he have anything to be grumpy about?
Bligh had a spectacular Royal Navy career, starting as a cabin boy at age 6, Vice Admiral upon his death in 1814 at age 60. Today we would be appalled at the thought of one so young working on any ship at sea, let alone a British combat ship! But the Royal Navy was concerned about a young man’s welfare, so William would have been limited to only one litre of beer per day! William’s peers, the common sailors, were ‘Three Sheets to the Wind’ every day on 4 litres of beer. Perhaps hard to be grumpy around a ship full of drunken, cursing, jig dancing, and hard-working sailors.
However, William applied himself to his studies becoming in the words of his mentor Captain James Cook: “The Royal Navy’s greatest navigator”. 1776, age 22, William’s luck changed, everything went SNAFU, grumpiness set in. Cook selected Bligh for his third Pacific voyage. Cook promptly had himself eaten by Tahitians, Cook’s second in command died from tuberculosis, leaving William to sail the ship home to Britain which he did in 1780. Extraordinary achievement for a 22-year-old. Long ocean voyages of responsibility became Bligh’s habit along with his grumpiness.
Then in 1789, Bligh in command of HMAS Bounty, had a heated discussion with Lieutenant Fletcher Christian.
Captain Grumpy meets Lieutenant Charm.
One grumpy bastard and a smart arse.
Fletcher, had none of William’s professionalism, exquisite seamanship, or traditional British Navy ability to endure regardless of setbacks, just get the job done. Whereas Bligh was grumpy and standoffish with the sailors, Christian was extrovert, charming, charismatic, and romantic. His mercurial mood swings, being what today we would call bi-polar. The Bounty had just left Tahiti, a land of plenty, no work, and beautiful island lasses, to whom Christian Morality, was well just silliness.
A mutiny ensued and Bligh found himself with 18 loyal crew, in a 6-metre-long boat, in the even longer, wider open ocean. Not perturbed, Bligh sailed 47 days to the European colonial outpost of Timor. Quite extraordinary feat of navigation and leadership. Doubtful whether many, if anyone living today, could replicate such a journey. If William Bligh lacked sufficient reason to be really grumpy, well it just keeps getting better.
Grumpiness, another Mutiny and Propaganda.
In 1808, Bligh now the Governor of New South Wales, became the victim of another mutiny, this time a successful coup by the British Army forces charged with protecting the Colony. A watercolour painting depicts the arrest of Bligh.
Australia’s First Public Propaganda.
This cartoon is Australia’s earliest surviving political cartoon and like much propaganda it makes use of caricature and exaggeration to convey its message. The New South Wales Corps’ officers regarded themselves as gentlemen, and in depicting Bligh as a coward, the cartoon declares that Bligh was not a gentleman and therefore not fit to govern.
Now we see the reason for William Bligh’s grumpiness, this cartoon, how most Australian’s remember Bligh, is a complete fabrication! If anyone deserved to be Court Martialed, it was the New South Wales Corps’ officers. My previous Postcard,‘Propagandist Bastards Dangerous Deception‘, discussed the destructive power of propaganda. Bligh was justifiably grumpy, a man of exceptional talent, perhaps the world’s greatest ever navigator: Time travelled down to our generation as a coward hiding under a bed.
Lieutenant Charm and his Princess.
And what of Fletcher Christian? Well, he certainly was not grumpy! He and the Bounty Crew returned to Tahiti, Fletcher married his princess, they sailed off to find another lost island and basically disappeared from history. Well actually Christian was killed in a love tryst, other mutineers were killed playing rugby with Tahitians, the rest were captured by the resilient, and persistent British Navy. During transport back to Old Blighty their ship the ‘Pandora’ ran upon a reef, some drowned, some survived. Some of those survivors were flogged and hanged – A lot of grumpiness all round then!
Christian looks rather smug not grumpy!
The End of Grumpiness.
Well, I’m still grumpy! But, with more than a little assistance from Ernest, I did manage to write 2000 words. Not many true sentences, but then Hemingway predated Fake News, Postmodernism, Gonzo Journalism, and the contemporary world which celebrates, “Much ado, about nothing”. Oh, William what a brilliant time traveller though art.
Classic Human behaviour – Much ado about nothing.
So, what makes me grumpy? Yes, I guess I avoided answering that obvious question:
The standard of driving makes me grumpy. I blame the Japanese. These absolutely reliable, small, fast, automatic hatchbacks – Easy to drive fast, swerve, change lanes, all make old men grumpier! My first cars in the 1970’s/1980’s were slow, cumbersome, manual three speeds, notional brakes – You needed to learn to control such beasts. Or perhaps I’m just jealous?
The rise of White Nationalism, Support of Neo-Fascism and Trumpism – This makes me absolutely raging with Grumpiness – Toss Putin in with that as well.
Writer’s Block Reflections.
I commenced this Post, blocked, little direction: Much to do about nothing. Yet, I have managed 2000 odd words, very odd words I imagine. Every person has a story to tell. The key to overcoming writer’s block is well start writing. That is the essence of Hemingway’s advice, “Write one true sentence“. There are 8 billion humans out there, odds on someone will relate to your story.
Conclusion:
These are events outside my direct control, but they have impact, though not much I can effectively counter them with. Fletcher Christian gave William Bligh a literal lifeboat, William marshalled his loyal team, sailed and rowed his way out of adversity, well more aptly saved himself for yet more adversity to come.
Old Hesiod, the World’s original Grumpy Old Man had a peer in the Ancient World, Marcus Aurelius Emperor of Rome. Marcus definitely did not have IMS and most certainly followed Dwayne Johnson’s testosterone firing workout routine.
Marcus’ writing on stoicism time travelled brilliantly, it remains relevant. A fact that no doubt makes Hesiod grumpier still. Hesiod may be interesting, though I don’t see Linked In Posts promoting Hesiod’s advice about not crapping in your local river. But Marcus provides a lifeboat to navigate your own life’s river, polluted or otherwise, and the even longer, wider open ocean.
I’m still consistently grumpy: But now I’m off to hit the weight bench!
Marcus Aurelius Roman Emperor and not so Grumpy Bastard.
Spiritualism Indonesia. (Ok this is me. Well, me in a somewhat perplexed, cynical, and whimsical mood, which is much my permanent state. I've just turned 61 and 3 years into retirement as I start to write my 30th Postcard. This Postcard was intended to discuss my ponderings on various subjects during my October 2023 adventure in Indonesia. Surprisingly for me it turned into a discussion of spiritualism in Indonesia. I've explored Indonesia many times previously. I've written previously of my adventures there, one of these can be read at this link.
I'm the least spiritual person I know, unless we are speaking spirits from the fine waters of Scotland or Kentucky. Though I was raised traditionally Irish Catholic, well it never really worked for me. Putting aside my observations of rampant hypocrisy and lashings of violence dished out during my foundational school years, my connection to God could be summarized as: "At my birth someone forgot to make the required phone connection between the temporal and spiritual planes".
So let me begin by setting the locational context, some historical background, and finish with a little discussion of the adventures that unfolded)
Adventure in Yogyakarta, Java Island, Indonesia
Spiritualism Indonesia.
Spiritualism Indonesia, what would I know? I’m coming to the end of my October 2023 month spent in Indonesia. My intent was to pursue my usual writing subjects: History; and how it impacts the present, politics, architecture, culture, food, and commerce. I certainly experienced all those things that my part of Indonesia had to offer, but something unexpected happened. I experienced, for me anyway, profound human spiritualism in Indonesia. So, I’m skipping my usual subjects for the moment, whilst I share some of that experience. I’ve also written about spiritualism on the island of Bali, Indonesia. That Postcard is available by following this link.
With a population of 278 million, Indonesia is the world’s largest Muslim country. There is no official state religion, but only six religions are recognized in the Constitution: Islam (87%), Catholicism (3%), Protestantism (7.5%), Buddhist (0.73%), Hinduism (1.7%), and Confucianism (0.03%). This does not mean that Indonesia is intolerant of other religions, far from it.
Indonesia – Pancasila and religion.
‘Pancasila’ is the first principle of Indonesia’s philosophical foundation. The concept requires citizens to state their belief in “The one and almighty God”. So yes spiritualism in Indonesia is government business.
“Pancasila is an explicit recognition of divine providence, it is meant as a principle on how to live together in a religiously diverse society.“
Constitutional Court Indonesia.
All religions are generally tolerated. But there are areas with overwhelming Muslim majorities which are fundamentalist in nature, they enforce Sharia Law.
Welcoming and accepting of all? Well not quite. The Indonesian government has a discriminatory attitude towards its many tribal religions, atheism, and agnosticism. Appropriate time to mention my own lack of recognized religiosity. Most people would describe me an atheist, infidel, or simply a nonbeliever. That’s correct, though I would prefer the term fellow traveller, as I’m certainly not a spiritual anarchist, I have always sensed a spiritual side to life. Traveling internationally requires risk management of many issues: political disturbances, hygiene, financial scams, personal security, and notably in Indonesia, to keep your lack of formal religion to yourself. Previously I discussed my preparations for this Indonesia adventure at this link.
Spiritualism Indonesia and the risk to non-believers.
Blasphemy remains a punishable offence in Indonesia, and it applies to citizens and foreigners. If I were to speak openly in Indonesia about my personal religious views, I would indeed be guilty of blasphemy. I’m not stupid, I’m also not in the business of recruiting others to my view, so I never discuss such things. A blasphemy charge in a province that enforces Sharia Law would be very serious. Such a charge against a tourist is unlikely in most of Indonesia, but it does happen. EG: Russian tourists on the Indonesian Island of Bali, have been deported for being naked, drunk, and disorderly in Hindu Temples. Charged under a provision of the Blasphemy Laws. And it’s not just temples. Indonesian religious beliefs are taken very seriously.
Alina Fazleeva, Russian yogi influencer, was deported and barred from entering Indonesia for six months. She offended Balinese Hindus by posting images of herself posing naked on Babakan Temples’ 700-year-old sacred tree.
Might be Art in the West – In Indonesia it can be blasphemy.
Where were you on 7th October 2023?
On October 7th I was sitting in a Cafe in Kuta on the Island of Bali, a short stop over before an internal flight to Yogyakarta. (Wikipedia, provides an excellent introduction) Most people are familiar with Jakarta, Indonesia’s crowded, busy capital City, so it’s easy, due to the similar name, to confuse it with the smaller city the subject of my journey. Yogyakarta is much smaller, but its history, and culture make it just as interesting. I’ve previously written of my adventures in Yogyakarta in several Postcards, which can be viewed at this link.
“Sometimes, perhaps not often, all your stars align, life flows easily and fluidly. Other days the stars won’t either align or shine. All you can do is hang tough, take a pause, take the ‘high ground’ reorientate, get back up, have another go, and remember. Someone always has more serious setbacks than yourself”.
Peter Veal. Facebook Post Oct 23.
Lumpia, a Bintang and a real Postcard.
Hamas attacks Israel – Hate, murder, and retribution.
Then of course I heard of the Hamas terrorist attack on Israel. How prophetic my words, now in addition to Ukraine, Israel and Palestine would feel the destructive violence unleashed by ignorance, jealousy, greed, racism, and bigotry. In Bali, The Hindu Island of the Gods, as it is described, well I was feeling none of Indonesia’s spiritualism, just sad and hopeless about humanity or lack of it, certainly my usual whimsical manner had passed.
We considered heading home to Australia, prompted by the angry protests that broke out in Kuta, and images of protests in Indonesia’s capital Jakarta. Australia too was seeing similar protests erupt.
Indonesia support for Palestine is strong – Not so much for Hamas.
Australian protests at the Sydney Opera House in support of Palestine.
We decided to push on. After all we are neither Palestinian nor Israeli, Yogyakarta is not as extreme as Jakarta, and we hoped we could simply avoid such protests, and I guess we thought our Australian and New Zealand passports would see us through. So off we went.
Next Stop Yogyakarta.
Welcome to Yogyakarta: Birthplace of spiritualism Indonesia.
A real Postcard depicting the cultural variety of Yogyakarta.
The City of Yogyakarta on the island of Java, Yogyakarta is regarded as an important centre for classical Javanese fine arts and culture such as ballet, batik textiles, drama, literature, music, poetry, silversmithing, visual arts, and wayang puppetry. Yogyakarta is proud to be the location of the Planet’s oldest and largest Buddhist and Hindu Temples. Renowned as a centre of Indonesia education, Yogyakarta is home to a large student population and dozens of schools and universities.
Yogyakarta’s religious mix.
With a population of 390,000, the religious mix is a little different from Indonesia generally: Islam (82.3%), Catholicism (10.75%), Protestantism (6.5%), Hinduism (0.13%), Buddhism (0.34%), and Confucianism (0.01%). The history of the development of spiritualism Indonesia is told through its religious development.
The relative low levels of Buddhism and Hinduism is revealing when you know that firstly all of Indonesia was essentially Buddhist (4th Century AD), until arrival of Hindu traders (5th Century AD). Islam arrived in the 13th Century and gradually dominated. Buddhism became less significant; adherents became Muslim or followed the Hindus to the Island of Bali. Hindus having exited Java Island from the mid15th Century AD and established kingdoms on Bali. Today Bali has 4.4 million people of which 87% are Hindus.
The Christian population shows the influence of European colonization and empire building. Portuguese Catholicism arrived in the early 16th Century, and Dutch Protestantism in the late 16th Century. I’m not sure why at Independence from the Dutch, Indonesia decided to record Christians as Catholic and Protestant, though I suspect it was intended to ‘keep an eye’ on who was being loyal to which former European oppressor. I also suspect that nominal Indonesian Christians are as secular as most in the Western world, thus the percentage of Catholics and Protestants officially recorded, says as much about the inability to safely record yourself as atheist/agnostic as any serious commitment to those Western religions.
Borobudur: 8th Century Buddhist Temple.
Borobudur – Lost to the jungle, rediscovered by all people Sir Stanford Raffles
I’ll admit to cynicism when it comes to temple visits in Indonesia. This stems from experiences 15 year previously on the Indonesian Island of Bali. It’s impossible to visit Bali without meeting a Hindu temple or at least a Hindu altar. They are ancient, old, new, large, small, in spectacular locations, in everyday streetscapes. The temples often share one, not so endearing characteristic, they are highly commercial and monetized. Hard to appreciate another cultures spiritualism when you’re constantly pestered by touts. Commonly tour guides, and assorted spivs sell anything but enlightenment. Welcome to the not so endearing aspect of Indonesia spiritualism.
Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles – meddles in Indonesia.
So, with such trepidation, I journeyed to Borobudur. Evidence suggests that Borobudur was constructed in the 8th Century. It was subsequently abandoned following the 14th Century decline of Hindu kingdoms in Java and the Javanese conversion to Islam. Borobudur was lost to time and the jungle until rediscovery in 1814, by an unlikely historical character. Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, the founder of Singapore, was also a dab hand at Indiana Jones style archaeology. Thomas used his power as the British ruler of Java to have the ancient temple cleared of soil and jungle. Predictably, he also started plundering its carvings, stone and specifically the heads of Buddha statues. Borobudur has been called the temple of 1000 Buddha, most of them headless. Sir Thomas Raffles is know for many things, but no one at my school mentioned his monetizing of spiritualism in Indonesia.
Borobudur has since been preserved through several restorations. The largest restoration project was completed in 1983 by the Indonesia government and UNESCO. Followed by the monument’s listing as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Very little architectural exploration – But human contact in spades.
In an earlier life I practiced architecture for 20 years, I quite like wandering around old buildings. And Borobudur does not disappoint. I was planning on shooting pics of Budha statues, headless and otherwise, and describing the architectural space encountered. Then I ran into the local school kids:
An awful lot of hand coding going on – I had absolutely no idea!
These children from regional villages were combining Indonesia’s spiritualism and religious history studies with ‘Interview a Foreigner Week’. How precisely the latter was to happen seemed dubious. As their English was about as good as my Bahasa Indonesian, very limited.
Rock stars are memorable – Then there is me.
My first reaction was that they had mistaken me for someone. The word ‘Rock Star’ was tossed around! Perhaps they thought I was Chris Hemsworth or ‘Thor’. Chris had after all recently been in Indonesia promoting a new movie.
A real ‘Rock Star’.
The similarity is staggering as both:
Are, Australian;
Not known for our spiritualism, Indonesia style or otherwise;
Weigh 100 Kg (220 Pounds);
Make a ‘dog’s breakfast’ of the Kings English;
He’s 40, very handsome, 190 Cm (6 foot, 3inches); I’m
61, 175 Cm (5 foot, 9inches), oh
And we are both still breathing.
Note to self, translation between languages can be deceptive. So why the interest?
Boys will be boys – Even very old examples.
Although Borobudur, is world heritage, I was one of very few foreigners present. I realized most of these children had never spoken at length with a non-Indonesian. And I spoke Bahasa with a smile. Put simply: I was a ‘Rock Star’, because these children were curious, funny, accepting of difference, and oh so willing to engage. And then I panicked! With limited language, what and how to communicate? Teenage boys – Speak the international language understood by all teenage boys: Girls, posing, bragging, and physical horse play!
That’s not a bicep, this is a bicep!
Want to look half smart? Hang with clever, intelligent, confident and ambitious women.
And then I really panicked, the Wanita arrived! And they meant business. I had noticed these young ladies hanging back from the rowdy raucous boys. Of the same age and school, they were obviously much more mature. As is the case with young women compared to their male peers. ‘Rock Star’ again, I was getting very confused. Fortunately, their English was much better than my Bahasa, what to speak about? Fashion? Jeweler? Handbags? Cool sunglasses? One look at me says, “Dude, this bloke knows nothing about fashion”.
The ‘Rock Star’ and his minders!
I need not have worried, they simply dominated the conversation, with confidence, and intent that I never expected:
How come I speak such weird English?
What’s it’s like for women in Australia?
Are there careers opportunities in Australia for women?
Are women paid the same as men?
Indonesia has a shining future with youth like this.
You get the point. These young ladies were aspirational. They wanted to go places, see things, have careers, be independent, set new parameters for Indonesian women. Above all they were curious, open, and interested in our obvious differences. They wanted to learn. And they lifted my earlier sad and hopeless mood. With kids like this, the future must be bright, we just need to decide it will be so.
Just when I thought I might get back to exploring Borobudur, the university contingent arrived. Tertiary education has increased in Indonesia, significantly so for women as it dramatically increases female employment opportunities. I at once noticed their English language fluency skills, these were the earlier teenage ladies, 5 years advanced.
We communicated in Bahasa and English. Something they insisted on, perhaps they found my Bahasa, only slightly less painful than my tortured English vowels. Again, I found this group friendly, confident, engaged and oh so interested in exploring our differences and sharing experiences. I felt more at ease as their fashion sense was a bad as my own.
I was starting to get the hand code thing by now.
Indonesian spiritualism and the global village.
I noticed that these students had a strong sense of being part of a global village, an international perspective. Indonesia will play a significant part in the future of the Planet. They asked me many questions that prove this point:
How come I speak such weird English? (I’m sensing a pattern here)
Are Muslims safe in Australia?
What is Australia’s position on the Gaza conflict?
Why has Indonesia and Australia had a at times strained relationship?
Is Australia a multicultural nation?
Why is Australia not a republic?
But above all we had a lot of fun and laughs. No longer was my mood one of sadness and hopelessness about humanity. I can’t recall why precisely they blessed and applauded me, must have been one of my dad jokes, translated into Bahasa Indonesian perhaps. But now I really felt like a ‘Rock Star’.
By now I really felt like a ‘Rock Star’.
Retail therapy and another dose of spiritualism.
So, we left Borobudur, having seen very little of the temple and drove to Malioboro Street, Yogyakarta’s famed shopping street for some retail therapy.
Malioboro Street – Shopping, eating, and just hanging out Indonesian Style.
On Saturday Malioboro Street is the place to see and been seen, most of Yogyakarta seemed to be heading downtown. But it was extremely hot and humid, so we decided to take our retail therapy indoors. So, into Aladdin’s Cave – ‘Hamzah Batik’:
Hamzah Batik – Yogyakarta’s public transport has a lot of attendant ‘farting’ – Not just the horses.
Our first haven was a ‘Hamzah Batik’, owned and operated by one of Yogyakarta’s most successful retailers and famous Drag Queens, who regularly hosts Drag Cabaret on the top floor of this establishment. The latter is insignificant to the story other than to suggest that Indonesia is not necessarily the religiously conservative Country you might imagine it to be.
Retail Therapy – Yogyakarta Style
Crippling humidity, more rock star fun, frivolity, and human tolerant spiritualism.
At this point we had not realized that the education system nationwide was celebrating ‘Interview a Foreigner Week’, but as soon as we emerged into Malioboro’s humidity, more ‘Rock Star’ activity.
These girls were not the fashion-conscious Wanita of our earlier encounter, they were much quieter, reserved, shy, humble, and restrained, they also spoke very little English. Nothing poise, and charm won’t overcome: Just as well my wife Lizzie and her Kiwi manner were present. Soon Lizzie had them gasbagging, not surprisingly, they were just as confident, eager to engage, pose for the camera and yes, the hand code signals! We chatted in Bahasa, during which they enquired about Australia, New Zealand, and told us of their career aspirations. They also asked me why Kiwi’s speak normal English and Aussie’s don’t!
With confidence like this – Indonesia has a bright future.
How I derailed Air Garuda’s international language program.
And it did not stop there, the ‘Rock Star’ event continued with an interview by this vivacious and extrovert group. In what seems peculiarly Indonesian, they were the graduating class of ‘Indonesia’s Air Stewards University’. I thought I missed something in translation, but their English fluency removed all doubt, such a thing actually exists.
Hospitality Air Garuda Style
Their last exercise involved seeking out a foreigner, communicating in their language, whilst serving them traditional Indonesian sweets. I have no idea what I ate, and given the hot, humid conditions, it was probably not very wise, but there you go.
We chatted in English and Bahasa, we also had the options of Dutch or French, yes, a multilingual education opens opportunity for young Indonesian Women. And as with every similar contact I had on this extraordinary day, they were confident, engaging, and oh so interested in exploring other cultures. They also asked me why I spoke such funny English, that pattern again! We closed on a lesson in how to speak Australian, like a real Aussie. So, next time you fly Air Garuda, if the flight attendant asks, “Howse ewes goin mate”, well you know who to blame.
Conclusions on spirituality.
I started this Postcard mentioning my spiritual experience. Are what I described actually spiritual experiences or just inspiring human connections?
I have no idea, I would for the reasons explained earlier, be the last person to answer such a question.
But I do know all of this made me feel better about the World. That young Indonesians could be so open and accepting of an old Aussie dude, from a completely different historical background and culture, gives me faith and hope.
I want to believe that the humanity that connects us is far stronger than the differences that can divide us. It’s a question of choice.
(This Postcard was written in October 2023, on the evening before jumping a flight from Australia to Indonesia. The commencement of my latest Indonesian adventure)
Tomorrow at dawn, I’m starting my Indonesian journey flying into Denpasar International Airport, Bali, Indonesia. After a few days on the Island of Bali, I’m flying to Yogyakarta. Bali, the Island of the Gods will see us doing much eating and relaxing. Such a life can be very seductive.
It’s difficult to avoid Hindu spiritualism in Bali. In consequence of temples, altars, and daily offering being ever present. Almost as difficult as avoiding the many touts and spiffs trying to sell you stuff you don’t really want. In summary this Postcard captures my current reflections on Bali. Where precisely is Bali in reference to our home?
Australia – A huge empty country, bumping Asian history.
Bali’s history – Praying, eating and chilling.
So, what’s all the praying, eating and chilling got to do with Bali, actually it appears to be the essence of tourism. I’m no stranger to Bali as we have both visited, I guess ten times or more, but it’s not to everyone’s taste. Bali is an island primarily of Hindu culture. Indonesia was primarily Hindu until the end of the 13 Century. With the emergence and eventual dominance of the Muslim religion on one hand and secondly war and conflict, the Hindu population gradually retreated to Bali. The Bali economy, since 1970, has primarily been driven by Australian tourism. In those days it was a hippie surfer destination, then Julia Roberts arrived. Bali gained international popularity with her 2010 movie ‘Eat, Pray, Love’. An international audience was introduced to the seductive eating, and the captivating spiritualism of Bali. I have written previously about spiritualism and religion in Indonesia, you can follow the link here.
Markets in Bali – Not quite this romantic, closer to hand-to-hand combat.
Commercial chaos, eating and chilling – An awful amount of waiting around.
Don’t get me wrong, Bali can be very romantic, but it’s also insanely commercial. It’s impossible to leave your accommodation without constant pestering to buy trinkets, clothes, jewelry, massage: it never stops. “Tidak, terima kasih, aku tidak menginginkan itu”, yes it helps to speak some Bahasa Indonesian, or simply say, “No Thank you”.
The Balinese invariably speak English, as a result of long contact with Australians. Though not surprisingly, often with a strong, broad, vowel twisting, Aussie Twang! Take the Australians out of Bali, like what happened through Covid, economic collapse. Every Balinese is an entrepreneur, everyone is on the game, all seeking an edge. They also seem to have hearing like arctic foxes. I always laugh, when a merchant dozing in the afternoon heat, clearly hears my own tortured Aussie vowels, responding: “Howse ewes going mate?” A tactic that seeks to imply understanding and mateship.
Our neighbourhood Kuta, Bali. Balinese often just sit and wait all day for custom.
Irrespective of Bali’s commercial mayhem, it’s usually clean. No, the attentive young ladies are not what you think. They work in legitimate massage parlours, extremely common. It’s easy to be cynical, to see Bali as full of grifters and chiseling spiffs. And that’s true, however in addition to being friendly and charming grifters, on the other hand Balinese inevitably take their Hinduism very seriously.
Seductive spiritual food – a Whole lot of praying.
Balinese believe that ancestors never leave, their spirit remains. Evil spirits and demons preside, and humans must keep them at peace and in balance. The process of making offerings and undertaking ceremony are critical daily activities, even commerce takes a back seat. Locals’ making offerings, conducting, or preparing for ceremony will frequently interact with your own activity. For a confirmed infidel like me, it’s something incredibly special. However, despite the spiritual atmosphere, it’s often simply necessary to seek refuge in your accommodation. I have a Postcard specifically about spiritualism and eating on the Island of Bali Indonesia. Perhaps you might like to read it by following this link.
Daily offerings of flowers and fruit – Makes the local squirrels incredibly happy chaps.
Accommodation: escape the chaos.
Fortunately, 15 years back I discovered Poppers right in the middle of this madness which offers refuge and peace, a time to refresh before getting back into the fray. It’s a collection of traditional villas, surrounded by a sculptured walled perimeter, creating an oasis. Step inside the gate and chaos simply disappears.
Poppies Kuta – Gateway to peace and tranquility
The accommodation is very traditionally Balinese, a bit old hat these days, but very charming. The Balinese thatched roof or ‘Alang Alang’ is a notable trait. This is actually authentic, there is no western tin roof underneath to ensure water tightness.
Your own villa surrounded by tropical gardens.
The Balinese are exceptional hosts. Poppies staff have been working together for decades, so they exude an obvious sense of ownership and pride. And do they like to chat and practice their English. Mornings for me always start, eating and chilling, with coffee and tropical fruit on that terrace, chatting with the gardeners in our respective broken English and Bahasa. Coffee addicts will love Bali as it grows some of the world’s finest coffee. You might like to sample what Aussies jokingly called ‘poo coffee’, or Kopi Luwak (Luwak Coffee). First you feed raw coffee beans to a small mammal called a Luwak. Balinese collect the partially digested beans that have passed through the Luwak’s bowels, and process as normal.
Yes, I’m with you, I also thought it was a joke, however it’ s no joke now Kopi Luwak is huge international business.
Coffee time – Saya mau, kopi hitam.
Personnaly I prefer Kopi Hitam (Black coffee), or to us Aussies, ‘Bali Collision Kopi’. Rough grind dark roasted beans, add to jug, pour in boiling water, stir and serve. A little grainy, pungently aromatic but simply superb.
Breakfast – Bali Time
Afternoons in Bali can be hot and steamy, cooling rain is not as abundant as it was. So, retreat to Poppies and a cooling swim.
Followed by an afternoon nap, just the thing to set your spirit as ease.
A very traditional Balinese interior, maintained in superb condition.
To place some financial context around Indonesian accommodation, one night’s accommodation in the Villa above costs as follows:
140 Australian Dollars.
73 Pounds Sterling.
89 US Dollars.
85 Euro; and
9000 Russian Rouble.
Unwelcome guests – Russian style eating, chilling and vodka chasers:
Since my last Bali visit, one thing has changed – Russians! Russians have had a presence in Bali for some time. There have always been rumours of dark criminal Russian money being invested in Bali real estate. Previously I have encountered Russian tourists in the more remote beach side scuba diving resorts, Bali has excellent diving opportunities. Since the invasion of Ukraine, up to 20,000 Russians per month have been arriving in Bali, escaping Putin’s military draft.
One of Russia’s finest – Nude biking is completely acceptable apparently.
Many of the allegations made against the Russians—drunkenness, disrespect of local culture, and dangerous driving—have long been levelled against visitors from across the world, especially so my compatriots. However, Russians are widely seen as particularly egregious offenders.
The Australians also cause problems, that’s for sure, but they are just drunk persons,it’s just childish naughtiness, kind of annoying but that’s about it. But the Russians—no, they think they own the place.”
I Wayan Koster. Govenor of Bali.
Balinese police recently announced a Russian man would be deported and banned from re-entering for six months after partially undressing on a sacred mountain in Bali. He will become the 58th Russian to be evicted this year. (The Balinese might be commercial, but they remain 100% intolerant of disrespect of their spiritualism)
Welcome guests – Aussie style eating, chilling and vodka chasers.
Over the years, Balinese authorities have deported plenty of my countryman, found to have broken the rules, often while intoxicated. But locals say Indonesians and Australians have come to know each other, with many repeat holidaymakers. Drunk young men in Bintang singlets are a minority – even if they make a lot of noise.
So as excited as I am about being back in the Island of the Gods, I could do without the increased presence of drunk Russians!
Corrupt Cops and Military Muscle.
Indonesia has an exceptionally large military. Australia’s relationship with Indonesia has been a roller coaster, the up, down, and sideways relationship of two neighbours who don’t always agree. There has been much distrust from both sides. During my time in the Australian Army, our theoretical opposition, on which volumes of methodology existed, was clearly intended to be Indonesia. Armed forces: military, paramilitary, and police, lurk as a shadowy presence in Indonesia.
There is a frequent police presence in Bali, it’s much like Rome, Italy in the sense that there seem to be uniformed police for every function: Traffic, cultural, religious, tourist, narcotics, theft, etc. Most of them are like Sgt Wayan below, kinda like your uncle, yes, he is a cop, but a friendly one, don’t think he even knows how to use the geriatric old revolver he carries. Sgt Wayan represents a culture of ‘on the spot fines’, you and I would see it as Balinese corruption. It’s notably improved, but still occasionally occurs.
Dad’s Army Indonesian Style
Indonesian Policing – The cute and funny side.
Sometimes Indonesian policing is quite funny, as in the ‘Naughty Tourist Task Force’ (NTTF). I’m sure Indonesian’s laugh at my attempt at speaking Bahasa, they’re just too polite to let it show. You never consider that your native language is complex, it seems logical, you’ve been speaking it since you were born. But nonnative speakers, often can never learn the nuance that you don’t even think about. Oh, I hope I don’t get busted by the NTTF!
Knock Knock – NTFF calling, who knicked the Nasi Goring?
Sometimes the police forces are cute. The role of women in Indonesian society continues to mature and evolve, that’s a good thing.
I can imagine these ladies under cover in the NTTF?
Indonesian Policing – The paramilitary muscle and no laughing matter side.
Then overnight in an otherwise quiet Bali, serious paramilitary force can simply appear. You realize that such muscle is just hidden away, constantly on tap.
And at times of threat of terrorism, well it gets profoundly serious, Densus 88, anti-terror special forces simply materialize. Note the Steyr Assault Rifle, carried on the right? That just happens to be the standard issue weapon of the Aussie Military. Perhaps surprisingly, given the sometimes-difficult relationship, Densus 88 is substantially trained by Australian Military.
Knock, Knock – Densus 88 calling!
Fortunately, such times are rare. But for an Australian living in a society, where police are scarcely armed, few citizens own weapons and when Australian military simply never go armed in the street – You realize that your probably not in Kansas anymore.
Eating and chilling – Bali style.
One of the pleasures of travelling is the food. Bali does not disappoint. Hygiene is important. There is no such thing as safe tape water in Indonesia. So, a lettuce or vegetable washed in tap water, or a cocktail with tap water ice, well welcome to Bali Belly. Trust me, it’s not only your belly that ends up hurting.
Fortunately, most establishments control the risk, but it’s always present.
Some nights we will eat in the garden at Poppies, with an environment like this, why would you not?
Romance for four? In your own tropical garden.
Bali Dutch colonial influence remains in the food.
A little bit of history and a delicious meal can be found by sampling a ‘Rijsttafel’, a Dutch word that literally translates to rice table. Popular side dishes include egg rolls, sambals, satay, fish, fruit, vegetables, pickles, and nuts. The Dutch introduced the rice table not only so they could enjoy a wide array of dishes at a single sitting but also to impress visitors with the exotic abundance of their colony. Which is ridiculously arrogant, but the Indonesians liked the idea, and it remained well past independence.
‘Rijsttafel’ – The Indonesian Smorgasbord.
The real taste of Indonesia is to be found in the street food. Food carts remain common in cities like Yogyakarta, not so much Bali. Two reasons I suspect, firstly the roads are horribly congested, and secondly infecting tourists with Bali Belly is probably not a good marketing strategy. As tempting as it looks its probable best to avoid.
However, there are plenty of safe alternatives, such as Madi’s Warung.
Madi’s: Authentic Street Food without the risk.
Madi’s is a real institution, often hard to get a table. Offers all manner of authentic Balinese and Indonesian street food.
Breakfast: Bali Style
So yes, I’m excited about my journey which commences in 10 hours.
I’m looking forward to reporting more on my observations on accommodation, architecture, politics, security, society, food, and spiritualism – Indonesian Style.
(This Postcard was written 48 hours before commencing October 2023 Indonesian adventure. I was pondering travel preparations, the 40 yearlong planning cycle that found me arriving where I am today, and off course the new experiences ahead.)
Travel preparation captures many issues. Finance, how do I pay for it. Time scale, long term thinking, yes that’s very boring, but it’s also a superpower. Achieving most things in life requires planning over time. Excitement, really important to embrace the passion and excitement of travel adventure, the thrill of experiencing new things. History, many people travel to Indonesia and know nothing of its history, I’m fine with that. Indonesia offers unique adventures, and a travel budget to suit everyone. But I believe knowing something of the history of a travel destination, adds immeasurably to the experience.
Kenalkan, saya nama Peter. Siapa nama Anda? (Let me Introduce myself, my name is Peter. What’s your name?)
Well, that’s me!
Travel preparation and language.
Ok not time for Bahasa Indonesian but soon. For in less than 48 hours I’m in the air to Indonesia for October. Learning something of the language of the countries you visit is recommended but not critical travel preparation. I taught myself Bahasa Indonesian starting from age 40. I’m far from fluent, and it’s not the easiest language to maintain in Australia. Contemporary Australia is indeed multicultural, most of the Planet’s cultures and languages are represented. But, unless you reside in a major metropolis, English is generally all most people speak. What other critical travel preparations require consideration?
Safe Travel – Starts with a solid foundation, Aussie ‘Mongrel’ Work Boots
Foundations of travel preparation.
Footwear and luggage are fundamental travel preparation considerations. I favour Australian made ‘Mongrel’ work boots. The Aussie boot is tough, durable, traditionally made, yet includes contemporary technology to ensure foot support and comfort. They are also exceptionally economical, when a long-life cycle is taken into account. Experienced military and construction professionals, careers involving long hours on your feet, know well, look after your feet and the body and mind will follow. What about luggage.
I favour bag packs, a small one and a larger one. As my travel companion, my wife Lizzie, opts only for a suitcase, well back packs give me free hands to add to my gentleman credit and man handle that suitcase downstairs and over common obstacle. The small pack is versatile. Well packed as carry on, it captures 7.5 Kilograms, as well as essentials for flying: food, water, electronics, notebook and reading material. It also becomes an everyday hauler when the adventure commences. With 7.5 Kg captured, my large back for a month will come in at around 13 kilograms (easy all-day haul if necessary), well excluding spill over from that bloody suitcase!
I currently use US Designed 5.11 backpacks. Durability, comfort, and storage design are my primary travel preparation considerations in selecting luggage. The 5.11 ticks those boxes. Constructed of 100% nylon, a little more expensive, but much superior to the common use of polyester. Wide, well padded, and adjustable shoulder harness and hip belt, bring excellent comfort, especially for the ‘well-built mature’ person. The storage design in the smaller 5.11’s is excellent. I find them perfect day travelling packs, good security zones, hidden areas, and plenty of smaller compartments for essentials.
Travel preparations over a lifetime.
Since my trip to Singapore this time last year, well I’ve been busy. Yes, I’m reaching the end of my third year of retirement, but that does not mean life stops. I’ve been busy, renovating an old Aussie farmhouse, reading, trying to learn how to write, and squeezing in some running and gym work. I’m 61 in two weeks, it’s important, increasingly so, to try to keep the old corpse in some condition.
Getting to now has taken some planning. Forty-one years of planning. At age 20, three years into my architectural apprenticeship, my work environment inspired the itching desire to retire early in good condition financially and health wise. Three years’ work had introduced me to many ‘mature’ people, who were worn out physically and financially broke. I knew that’s not for me.
A crash course in handling money, practice, patience, a whole lot of years, enduring four international financial downturns, I slowly gained knowledge. All that combined with Australia’s tax effective superannuation system: Well, I made it in the end. My travel preparation was effective. Not to say there were not a few false starts, dead ends, new beginnings, and plenty of tears along that way. Key learnings? Focus, clear understanding of the end state desired, some luck, resilience, determination, and a big swag of discipline. Now it’s time for some fun!
Anticipation rising with the Phoenix Hotel.
My home in Yogyakarta, Indonesia – Phoenix Hotel
Ok, so I’m not backpacking. Been there, got the ‘T shirt’. In my time in harness for my Queen, I lived plenty out of a backpack. However, Indonesia offers delights for backpackers. Accommodation with breakfast is available under $20 AUD. Such accommodation varies from a beachside bungalow to shared dormitory style in a major city. This trip however I’m travelling 5-star all the way. Well similar, the 5-star western system is not generally used in Indonesia, outside the major cities like Jakarta. I’ve booked some interesting hotels. To place some financial context around my choice, my maximum expenditure per night with breakfast $140 AUD.
The Phoenix Hotel Yogyakarta started life in the 1890’s the home of a Chinese spice entrepreneur. In the European Art Deco style, infused with Javanese architectural aesthetics. It is an inspiring example of Indonesian-Dutch architecture, known as Indische. European colonization of Asian and African countries rightfully gets a bad rap today. But, if you look hard enough, you can see evidence of the results possible when cultures merge and inspire each other. Due to its great historical significance, in 1996 the Indonesian Government, designated the Phoenix Hotel a national historical landmark.
The original owner’s fortunes crashed with the stock market in the 1930’s. Perhaps he should have realised all good things end. On life’s journey we encounter waypoints, whispers that it’s time to change course, to get out, to renew. That’s my view, the trick is too really listen to those voices, and to act.
Damn! I built it now you’ve knicked it:
A new owner transformed the house into a hotel. Such a splendid place that in the 1940’s the Japanese Imperial Army said, “We’ll have that thanks”, and they did. Japan off course was tossed out, however the Dutch wanted their empire back. All the Europeans wanted their Asian empires back. Ironic given the blood and treasury expended destroying Japanese empire building. Indonesia descended into a war of liberation, achieving independence on 17 August 1945.
The Phoenix rose from the ashes in 1951 becoming another fine hotel. So fine that the Indonesia’s first, President Sukarno said, “I’ll have that thanks”, and made it his home. In 2009 the Phoenix Hotel, as it now is, emerged.
Breakfast – Yogyakarta Style.
Travel preparation budget – Indonesia can be ‘Murak sekali’. (very cheap)
So, I’m extremely excited about exploring such a fine restored example of Indonesian architecture. You may think I’ve sold mum’s silver service to fund this trip? Well, this is part of the attraction of getting off the main Indonesian tourist beat, it’s very economical. A night in the Phoenix, including a ‘Rijsttafel’ breakfast (think smorgasbord), costs less than an average motel in Wagga Wagga, Australia. No offence to Wagga Wagga, it’s a typical rural Aussie Town, but it can’t make spicey Nasi with a side order of sambal. Actually, I was born in Wagga!
Currently the Aussie Dollar has been in free fall. Quite a concern for an Aussie time travelling adventurer, blame the Chinese economy. What? Well despite many warnings, all my homeland sells internationally is iron ore and invites to come Down Under and “Toss a shrimp on the Barbie”. What a horrible travel slogan. Australians don’t use the word shrimp. So, the Chinese don’t want any more iron ore, and have plenty of shrimp at home, thank you very much!
So what else am I up to?
Yogyakarta, Indonesia adventures – Spiritualism and eating!
Borobudur – World’s Largest Buddhist Temple
Yogyakarta has many fine historical examples of Muslim, Hindu, and Buddhist architecture. Some date back to the 10th and 13th Century, collectively they illustrate the complex history of contemporary Indonesia. I’m an infidel myself, but very much interested in all traditional faiths. So, I will indeed be spending time exploring this history. (PS: Actually, I had a human spiritual experience at Borobudur. My story available by clicking this link.)
Then there is eating?
Growing up a 1960’s child in Australia, well let’s say the food was very ho hum. The basic British meat and three vegetable style. Fortunately, in consequence of immigration, and that my Country generally embraces multiculturalism, international food styles are now commonplace. But there is nothing common place about Yogyakarta food, especially the everyday street food.
For context – 20,000 Indonesian Rupiah (RP) – 2 Aus Dollars, 1 Brit Pound, 1.3 US Dollars, 1.2 Euro
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I’m extremely excited about my journey. Hopefully, I can squeeze in some writing around developing my spiritualism and savouring some ‘Nasi Gudeg Ayam Paja Atsa’. Although I have truly little idea what that is.
Life is a journey of exploration, it should be fun, it requires planning and defined objectives. Also, a willingness to embrace change. Oh, and a dose of luck and good fortune, for my share of such things I am incredibly grateful.
(This Post, written in September 2023, is part of a series written from Australia prior to commencing an adventure in Indonesia. The series explores my proposed travel destinations, whilst placing them in a historical context)
My previous Postcards introduced my time travel through history adventure in Yogyakarta, Indonesia. Where exactly is it? Why would you, the reader, go there? Indonesia has a complex society with a rich history, Wikipedia Indonesia is certainly worth a visit for background.
Adventure in Yogyakarta, Java Island, Indonesia
Why do we choose to travel through history?
People have been asking this question for two thousand years. Answers time travel through history down to us from the great thinkers of their times. But we know nothing of the common men and women that frequented those bars, cafes, inns, and brothels along the Silk Road of 200BC. What if they could talk, what voice would we hear?
As a child my house and yard were my world, as I grew, my neighbourhood, my town etc. Yet in my parochial isolation, in say 1974, I never dreamt that Marco Polo, and many others, were part of an internationally connected world, centuries earlier, many of whom would travel through history
Would those common folk say:
I do it for the adventure?
Because I can?
I’m searching for myself.
It’s how I trade, and trading makes money!
Parts unknown – Time travel through history.
I am sure they would, perhaps all four. Would they reflect the voice of the USA’s Anthony Bourdain, common man, but not so common Chef, Restaurateur, and Author who said of his own travel through history:
“Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body.”
Anthony Bourdain
Ever had Bali Belly? – Not your heart that gets broken!
Well, I’m not delusional. And I’m 60 not back packing, nor on a back packer budget – I’m not expecting my trip to Yogyakarta to physically hurt all that much. However, I am hoping it changes me for the better, expands my mind, even just a little. As I move toward my actual final resting place, it would be great to think the trip gives me just a little more wisdom about my place in the world. I have specifically written of the spiritual aspects of Indonesia, you can explore my thoughts on this subject at this link.
What about Yogyakarta’s place in the World?
I believe you should know something about where you’re from in order to travel through history to where you’re going. So, what about my place, Australia’s place in the world? Put simply: Where you from Cousin?
Australia is the result of a transported Britain, in 1788AD slammed down in someone else’s part of the Planet. 788 men and women (convicts), Britain’s unwanted, plus 200 odd British Marines (The ones no Regiment wanted), sailors, and officers. It’s often thought these ‘convicts’ were the criminal underbelly of Britain: In reality minor pick pockets and knickers of pigs and chickens. Serious criminals: The rapists, and murderers – Well, they simply had their necks stretched on the end of the King’s rope.
Somewhere in this chaos my family arrived and commenced their Australian travel through history: Perhaps as pick pockets, more worrying for me as the unwanted trash of the British Marines, but definitely as Irish economic refugees in the 1860s.
In 2023 Australia is a country of 26.33 million people. Multicultural and generally accepting of all races, creeds, and political beliefs.
Travel through history with unconscious bias.
We tend to assess other Countries against what we understand of our own immediate world. IE: I think of myself as a citizen of a liberal democratic multicultural society. It’s easy to unconsciously compare other Countries against that base line – Perhaps even an unconscious bias.
The error and danger in this came home to me in Singapore last year. Singapore has always been criticized as autocratic, not genuinely democratic. With this bias Singapore should not be successful, right? Wrong! I found a society where most people have: Access to:
Clean water;
Education;
Sewerage;
Cheap first-class public transport;
World class medical treatment;
Time and money to shop, eat out and then do some more shopping; and
high paid work and affordable public funded housing – Housing that as they ‘rent’, tenants create capital that belongs to them.
A form of Socialism? Yes! But socialism that actually works and is economically sustainable. Liberal Democracy may not be the perfect answer to all situations.
So, that’s a potted summary of my own time travel through history. What of Yogyakarta, Indonesia?
Origins of Yogyakarta:
Indonesian people are a mix of different genetic groups of modern humans whose travel through history from Africa arriving on the Indonesian archipelago around 50,000 ago. Descendants of this group continued to walk to Australia. Well, there’s a connection, at least some of the blood lines in Yogyakarta once walked alongside the First Nations People of Australia.
Indonesians and Australians walked out of Africa.
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Travel through history to Yogyakarta – 1066 AD
I’m travelling back through history to 1066AD for two reasons: A quick snapshot has to start somewhere, and to establish a context benchmark against the British culture from where my genes continued their time travel. So, Britain 1066AD, what was happening:
1066 Battle of Hastings, British history changed forever.
1066, the Anglo-Saxon culture of England fell to the ‘William the Conqueror’s’ Norman Invasion in the ‘Battle of Hastings’, portrayed in the famous Bayeux Tapestry.It’s easy to believe that everyone simply shook hands after Hastings and went back to business but fighting continued until 1071. Was England then peaceful?
Yes, there was comparative peace, largely because North England was raped, burned, pillaged, depopulated, and devastated by the Norman desire for Peace.
To get some context on this: Think of your country’s largest city. Imagine if in a period of 5 years, all your neighbours in the – Aristocracy, government, military, church, or the business of land ownership: Were replaced by a Foreigners? Imagine what that would do too the place you call home?
I’ve always imagined the what ifs, should the gloriously, funny, silly, experiment we call Australia, simply be taken by force and moulded into something different. That’s what happened to England in 1066, and I suspect Yogyakarta as well. But,
Cultures fall, rise and continue their time travel.
A travel through history shows, that though cultures and civilizations fall, they often get up again. England did that after 1066. Then saw its culture change dramatically again, Civil War started in 1646AD, resulting in the execution of King Charles I, and the creation of England’s only Republic until 1660AD, when the Monarchy was re-established.
Cultures and civilizations fall, but life goes on. For those living it, the choice is acceptance or often death. For us centuries later, it’s usually the case that we have simply forgotten where we came from. Take the recent coronation of King Charles III: You would never think the Norman Invasion occurred or that English Republicanism ever triumphed! A fact brought home by considering that the new English King, Charles III is directly descended from William the Conqueror. (I should note that as an Aussie, dear Charles remains my King as well)
William The Conqueror’s Great ….. Great Grandson
So, what was happening in Australia in 1066AD? The First Nations People were continuing much as they had since walking from Africa, via Indonesia some 60,000 years previously – Living a spiritual life in profound connection with Country. So, they never fought? Well of course they fought amongst themselves. Most Indigenous people fought wars between clan groups, etc. But these were often ceremonial in nature, and certainly seldom wars aimed at elimination of another groups culture – Often they were culture affirming not culture destroying, whereas.
Year 1066 – Britian’s car crash
The 1066 Norman Invasion of England was car crashingly destructive of the Anglo-Saxon culture and civilization it conquered. Yet, England continued to grow and prosper, becoming the Planet’s dominant international Empire by the 20th Century, not waning until 1945, when the cost of World War 2, was more than even the plucky Brits could endure.
If history does not repeat but often rhymes, as suggested by Mark Twain, can we see such rhythms in Yogyakarta and the broader Indonesia?
Great words – Lousy haircut.
So, what of Yogyakarta in 1066?
Yogyakarta did not exist as a notable identity. But as for the Island of Java where Yogyakarta developed – Fighting and conflict a plenty! I guess BBC documentaries inspired the desire for ‘How to build an empire’?
By 1066AD the ‘Melayu Kingdom’, had risen to dominance. The name time travels to us in the words: Malay, Malaya and of course Malaysia. Melayu is known as a grand international kingdom, centre of knowledge, power, trade, and wealth. It was connected to the rest of the world, much as Singapore is today.
In 1285AD it welcomed a great Italian traveller Marco Polo, who wrote extensively about his travels. Indeed, many suspect it was Marco’s writings that inspired the future rampaging European empire building in other people’s back gardens.
Marco perhaps regretted leaving Venice.
So, trying to build your own empire? Or, simply planning a relaxing holiday somewhere along todays Silk Road – Toss some Marco in your backpack.
Marco also said:
“I have only written half of what I have seen, as no one would believe the other half.”
Marco Polo
Which seems accurate as Marco claimed to have seen unicorns in Melayu! He may have been a busy traveller, but it seems he always had time for long liquid lunches.
Time Travelling Mongols.
In 1289AD the Melayu had a less welcome visitor, an envoy from Kublai Kahn. Kublai was following the travel recommendation of Marco – I suspect it was gold not unicorns he wanted. Recognize the name Kahn? Yes, Kublai was the grandson of the all-conquering Genghis Kahn. Since 16 million people are descended from the ‘busy’ Kublai, one can assume he had many grandsons. But,
This grandson conquered China forming the Yuan Dynasty – Whilst also remaining Emperor of Mongol. Now he set his sight on Melayu.
The Melayu promptly informed Kublai’s envoy that they had no interest in being vassals to Mongols. When he did not listen, and to improve his hearing, they promptly cut off his ear and sent him packing back to Kublai.
In 1293AD Kublai responded by sending more emissaries in the form of an invasion force of 1000 ships – Roughly the force that William used to take England.
Who Invited Marco Polo and his Drinking Mates?
Traitorous relatives, Kingdom lost
The people of Melayu fought well, Mongols were highly effective in battle, but the Sultan had a son in law, a traitorous one – Raden Wijaya. He joined with the Mongols – The Melayu were defeated, their Kingdom raped, burnt, and pillaged – The go to response of all would be conquerors. Young Raden then turned on the Mongols – He won! I suppose being a traitor to your dad, does not prevent you being a brilliant military commander.
The Mongols caught the monsoon winds and travelled back to China. All this travel seems remarkable, how did they know where they were going? After all, the legendary navigator, His Majesty’s Captain James Cook, only found Australia centuries later, by the expedient of running straight into it and wrecking the King’s ship. The answer is pretty simple, travellers in these Middle Ages were moving all over the place. No great secret, we simply in our contemporary smugness have forgotten.
What of Marco Polo? Well as you imagine Kublai was pretty cranky that Marco failed to mention, that as well as gold, spices, and perhaps unicorns – These Indonesians to be, could really fight! In grand Mongol tradition Marco’s last journey was to walk to a chopping block and a Mongol axe. See Marco had for decades been spying for the Mongols – No one taught me that in primary school!
Another Kingdom commences its Time Travel
With the destruction of the Melayu Kingdom, via force and treachery, a new Kingdom emerged – The Majaphit Kingdom. Known as the high point of Indonesian culture and civilization. Religion, government, legal systems, art, military arts, architecture, trade, and international connectivity, all prospered and developed through this Kingdom. Then,
Other great travellers dusted off their Michelin Guides, and the long-forgotten Silk Road Maps of the Sea – Sailed forth to see what Marco Polo had carried on about: The Dutch and English arrived – They weren’t much interested in culture and art, like Kublai they wanted gold! I sense another culture and civilization is about to fall!
When I reflect on my tiny little world way back in 1974, well? Well, I end up agreeing with Anthony Bourdain:
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Welcome to Postcards from Downunder. My ponderings on travel, and all manner of human activity, all presented with a historical context.
