Bali, Indonesia – Awesome Legitimate Spiritualism Island of the Gods:

(This Postcard was written in Kuta, Bali, Indonesia on the Island of the Gods in October 2023.)

I arrived in Bali, the ‘Island of the Gods’, several days previously. The intent of this Post is to discuss the relationship between spiritualism and eating. In Bali, compared to my Australian home country, evidence of spiritualism abounds. But it soon becomes apparent that Balinese spiritualism is intrinsically connected to daily food and eating. Arriving at my accommodation was embarrassing as I immediately stood on a daily offering called canang sari. Through your journey you will encounter these as they are placed around nearly every doorway, intersection, temple, and upon all things that need protection.

Canang sari are comprised of edible food, additionally flowers, money, and even cigarettes. In this manner the Balinese seek to placate the multitude of gods, spirits, and demons that surround them. It’s a good starting point for my Postcard as I will be discussing primarily Balinese spiritualism and eating. However, I will follow my pattern of discussing Balinese food in some historical and cultural context.

Spiritualism, eating and me.

Ok, this is me. Obviously not in Indonesia, but in Brisbane, Australia August 2023, at the Royal Agricultural Exhibition. About to eat a ‘Dagwood Dog’ or ‘Pluto Pup’, or if your Scottish, a deep fried saveloy. I agree, not the finest United States cultural element Australia has ever borrowed. As an illustration it does suggest I am not all that fussy about what I consume. Equally important, you can see I am hardly short of calorific intake. Consequently, these days I do pay attention to the quantity and quality of what I consume. Perhaps surprisingly this photograph has a very Balinese like spiritual side to what appears to be a rather poor eating choice. How is that so? Let me explain.

Dagwood Dogs, Spiritualism, and Family.

I first visited the Royal Agricultural Exhibition around 1972, I was 10, and accompanied by Grandmother. My mum’s family after arriving from Ireland in 1860, settled in a rural farming and grazing area. They were country people through and through. So, the Exhibition adventure was one of tagging along with Gran as we seemingly visited all her network, and friend’s exhibits. Bulls, cows, horse, plows, tractors, pigs, and chooks: I could name them all, and I learnt what all their poo smelt like!

This is the first time I realized, that by birth I was connected to an extended family of people, who I knew nothing about. Yet my Gran obviously had an extensive network, one she valued and respected, one she had very strong connections with.

My youngest daughter first accompanied me to the Exhibition around age 14, introduced me to the delight of the Pluto Pup. Since then, some 16 years, it’s always the same thing, “Pluto Pup time”!

This is an old Australian dude, trying to describe the role of food and family in Balinese life and spiritualism. IE: The Balinese are primarily Hindu, and each person has a deep spiritual connection to past ancestors, direct and extended family. Food being the medium by which daily life, marriage, deaths, and off course their multitude of Gods, demons and spirits are celebrated.

Food and Religion.

Further tying food and faith together are moments of celebration, most notably, the Galungan Festival. During this period, dishes like Lawar (a traditional mixed salad with spices), Satay Lilit (minced seafood satay), and Babi Guling (suckling pig) orchestrate a culinary symphony which ignites the senses while paying respects to the divine. It’s a vivid, delicious example of how food plays more than a simple sustenance role in Balinese culture. Balinese food is very seductive, a subject I’ve discussed previously. Follow this link please to, ‘Seductive Eating on the Island of the Devil Demons‘.

 An interesting facet about Balinese cuisine is the strong influence of Indian and Chinese cultures, evidenced by the liberal use of spices and ingredients like chilies, turmeric, galangal, and soy sauce. Many of these were introduced through trade and migration waves several centuries ago. Such influence is most evident in dishes such as Lawar and Babi Guling. 

Spiritualism and Eating: Classic dishes.

Firstly, there’s Babi Guling, a sumptuous roast pig dish, possibly the most iconic of Balinese meals. The pig is stuffed with aromatic spices and roasted for hours on a spit, resulting in succulent meat with a crispy skin. You’ll know you’re near a Babi Guling vendor from the tantalizing smell alone! 

Next up is Ayam Be tutu. This dish consists of chicken or duck slow cooked to perfection in a rich blend of local spices, then wrapped in a banana leaf. The result? A tender, flavorsome treat that falls off the bone. 

For lovers of spice, Sambal Matah is a must-try. This raw chili sauce, bursting with shallots and lemongrass, pairs excellently with grilled meats and seafood. Its potent heat might surprise you but is sure to keep you coming back for more. 

Lastly, don’t forget to try the Jaje Bali. This assortment of colorful, bite-sized desserts, crafted from rice flour, fruit, and coconut, is the perfect sweet ending to any Balinese meal. 

Spiritualism and Eating – Balinese style, a rich cultural history.

Not only are these dishes mouth-wateringly delicious, but they also offer a beautiful peek into the rich cultural tapestry that Bali has to offer. Each dish is a testament to the island’s history, agricultural bounty, and the Balinese peoples deep respect for nature.

Every aspect of Balinese life is steeped in spiritual symbolism, and food is no exception. The process of preparing meals, from selecting ingredients to the cooking techniques used, is not a casual act but a spiritual one. Ingredients are chosen with care, dishes are cooked with intention, and meals are consumed with gratitude to the gods, showcasing a nexus of spirituality and sustenance.

One prevalent practice is the preparation of ‘Banten’, or food offerings to the gods. Often, these offerings include a delicate balance of sweet, salty, bitter, and spicy elements, mirroring the Balinese spiritual philosophy of Tri Hita Karana, which emphasizes harmony with the gods, with fellow humans, and with nature. These food offerings are a tangible expression of this belief system, showing the intricate relationship between Balinese spiritualism and eating. Banten are carried in the numerous ceremonial processions that punctuate Balinese life.

Canang sari – The daily spiritual offering. Eating yes, but by the local squirrels and birds.

Though large intricate Banten being carried in processions are common, there is a daily every day, thrice a day offering – Canang sari. These are everywhere. On small altars, and at the entry ways of shops, cafe and accommodation. Indeed, if you want your tourist dollar to be spent with the local Balinese, always ensure the places you frequent have Canang sari on the footpath.

Canang sari, are made from palm leaves and filled with a variety of items, including food. This fascinating local custom magnifies the spiritualism and eating associated with Balinese food and represents one of the many ways in which spirituality is deeply etched into the evolving foodways of the Balinese people.  Food is seen as a gift from the gods, a symbol of life’s energy, and an offering to the divine. In essence, the significance of food in Balinese culture is a testament to the local people’s profound appreciation towards nature and a divine validation of their religious beliefs.

I am always profoundly impressed watching the young ladies who work in my accommodation make their thrice daily offerings. Young people, working long hours, 24-day working months, around $50AUD per month. Yet, they solemnly with grace, gratitude and dignity, quietly without fuss make their personal connection with their Gods, demons and spirits. It’s a spiritual interlude in a at times crazy commercial focused society. It bothers no one that just as quickly the local squirrels and birds descend to the available feast. It seems humble local animals are also entitled to their slice of spiritualism and eating.

Death and Rebirth – A whole lot of dressing up, colour, food, drinking and celebration.

I was staying in Amed, a smallish traditional fishing village some 150 kilometres from Kuta the tourist hub. The traditional Hindu Balinese are extremely open to outsiders and ever keen to share their spiritual culture. Actually, in my Indonesian adventures outside of Bali, I have generally found all Indonesians to be friendly, accommodating, curious and oh so accepting of cultural differences. I’ve written of such experiences in the primarily Muslim city of Yogyakarta. Click this link for access to, ‘Rock Star Antics -Spiritualism Indonesia‘.

So it was that I stumbled into a funeral ceremony. One of the most distinctive aspects of Balinese mourning is the ‘Ngaben’ ceremony, also known as the ‘cremation ceremony’. Unlike Western traditions where funerals are a somber affair, in Bali, it’s a colorful and joyous celebration of the deceased’s journey to the afterlife. Shocking to my Western sensibilities was the presence of the deceased, indeed the presence of the deceased actually being cremated, surrounded by a large group of family and friends.

Similarities and differences to my own cultural past.

I’ve been to many funerals, mainly Irish Catholic. Men and boys in black suits, women in black dresses, some hidden by veils, and lots of crying. The sad pall bearer procession as old men carry a mate on his last journey. And yes, traditional Irish Catholic funerals have a distinct cultural spiritualism, accompanied by eating and certainly much drinking. This was nothing like that!

For the women it was an opportunity to dress up in a multitude of colours. All wearing the traditional ‘Kebaya’, and all carrying freshly made Banten on their heads.

Passing to the other side is hard work – Food, drink and celebration is required.

The purpose of this festive event is to ensure the smooth transition of the soul from the physical world to the spiritual kingdom. Balinese Hindus believe that a proper send-off, filled with laughter and music, helps the soul to detach from the earthly realm more easily. There should not be any tears of sadness, for that will hinder the soul from reaching the next life.

Balinese Hindus hold strong beliefs in reincarnation. They believe that the soul does not perish but is reborn into a new form. Therefore, the rituals surrounding death are viewed as a part of this ongoing cycle. The cremation ceremony, with its festive nature, serves to celebrate the soul’s journey to its next life. It’s seen as an opportunity for the soul to be released from its earthly ties and start afresh in a new existence. This perspective on death and reincarnation highlights the Balinese people’s philosophical outlook on the continuity of life beyond physical existence.

Banten and Canang sari were in abundance. As were tables full of glorious Balinese food, and jugs of Arak, a local liquor made from fermented palm tree sap – moonshine if you like! I had experienced many a drunken Irish wake, but this was pure celebration. Laughter and joy to see the departed progress into a new abundant life. It was hard not to be moved and yes drawn into such a culture of celebrating death and spiritualism with eating and drinking in such a joyful celebratory manner.

The not so Spiritual side of Eating in Bali.

On returning to my villa in Amed, welcome to Bali Belly! What is Bali Belly? Everyone seems to get it no matter how careful you are with hygiene. Tap water is a no right across Indonesia. I’ve travelled Indonesia extensively, I’m careful, but there I was – stuck in my Villa with a toilet ever close. Just as well the Villa had amazing views.

So, I spent three days recovering from the cremation ceremony and no doubt the moonshine. My Balinese hosts were supportive, they too suffer Bali Belly, all the time! As I said the not so advertised aspect of spiritualism and eating in Bali. They fed me twice daily steamed rice with poached Mahi Mahi fish, there go to cure. Hadly a hardship.

I had plenty of time to read and write, indeed I wrote the first draft of this Postcard, naked but a sarong, black coffee and water.

I also had time to really interact with my Balinese Hindu hosts, and that really turned into a spiritual experience.

Spiritualism – An Aussie Non-Believer delves into Balinese Hindu Prayer.

Several days after the cremation ceremony I was drinking black coffee in the restaurant of my villa. Chatting with my hosts, in my broken Bahasa Indonesian and what passes for English in Australia, a question occurred to me. A question that only perhaps a blunt, forthright, and perhaps ignorant Aussie would ask. “Why do the staff in this villa complex, not perform daily ceremony?” “I never, unusually for me, trip over Canang sari offerings.” The response was surprising:

“Oh, we are lazy Hindus.” There was much laughter, perhaps a little embarrassment. The notable aspect of Balinese Hindu’s is their irrepressible sense of humour. I would like to think that is one reason they generally get on so well with my Countryman. Also, why they have been so tolerating of our often loud and boisterous behaviour. Then immediately they invited me to conduct morning ceremony the next day. So, I fronted up, still nauseous, still conscious of being close to a toilet, but also very excited. Let the preparation begin.

Wayan provides Spiritual Instruction on undertaking morning ritual.

Wayan’s instructions were very simple. No solemnity, no dogma. “Clear your mind, think of your family, think of your loved ones, reflect on your ancestors.” Now I started to understand, that at least for these humble fishing villagers, daily spiritualism was all about family, past and present. No mention of the Hindu Gods, spirits, and even demons that inhabit the Hindu theological world. Herein ended the instruction, we were set.

Morning ritual commences.

I did not however consider that Wayan would lead me up and down the cliff face on which the villa complex resided. It was very hot and humid, and I was not feeling all that spectacular. As we visited big temples, small altars, all with spectacular ocean views, well I was feeling non too spiritual. But I hoisted up my sarong and gamely followed.

I really thought I would simply accompany Wayan, but no he encouraged me to conduct the offerings. Place the Canang sari, speak to your family and ancestors, place the incense in a specific position, three splashes of holy water whilst conducting dialogue with that family, a moment of reflection – Offering completed.

Our final offering was made adjacent a swimming pool, right next to my own villa. Now I was thinking, well at least I can use a toilet I’m very familiar with! As I bent to conduct the process described above, I do recall asking my ancestors: “Please, give me a hand here, our Irish Catholic family is going to be highly embarrassed should I collapse headfirst under water in a very informal baptism”.

With that the morning offering was complete. Though I returned with Wayan to the restaurant to the cheers, hugs, laughter, and celebrations of my gracious assembled hosts. One final personal blessing by Wayan, I was anointed with rice and a sacred hibiscus flower. Now I really needed a toilet and the spiritual embrace of a tall cold icy glass of spirits, no not moonshine, but Sailor Jerry’s spiced rum. Spiritualism is tiring business!

Conclusion: Spiritualism and eating.

So, what did I learn along this Indonesia journey?

There is nothing intrinsically spiritual about food itself. But there is spirituality associated with food. The Balinese I was lucky to share this experience with are relatively poor by Indonesian standards. Certainly, much so by Australian standards. During Covid, as Indonesia shut down, everyone from Amed returned home to their local fishing villages. Tourist income stopped. But the family village is always spiritual home, and always provides shelter in times of duress.

Food was simple. Boiled rice from the family paddy field. Grilled pilchards captured by the family generations old fishing boat. Grandparents, parents, kids, cousins, wives of sons – They all just got on with it. The daily rituals of offerings continued. Gratitude prevailed.

I remain convinced that the spiritual aspect of food in Bali, is as much about family bonding as anything else. The hours spent with parents and kids, preparing spices and condiments. Grandparents passing on the intricate techniques of preparing Banten and Canang sari to their grandkids. And off course the daily offerings made in profound gratitude for what you have.

Perhaps at the end of the day Family and Gratitude captures human spiritualism at its most profound.

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