Seductive Eating on the Island of Devil Demons.

(This Postcard was written in October 2023, on the evening before jumping a flight from Australia to Indonesia. The commencement of my latest Indonesian adventure)

Tomorrow at dawn, I’m starting my Indonesian journey flying into Denpasar International Airport, Bali, Indonesia. After a few days on the Island of Bali, I’m flying to Yogyakarta. Bali, the Island of the Gods will see us doing much eating and relaxing. Such a life can be very seductive.

It’s difficult to avoid Hindu spiritualism in Bali. In consequence of temples, altars, and daily offering being ever present. Almost as difficult as avoiding the many touts and spiffs trying to sell you stuff you don’t really want. In summary this Postcard captures my current reflections on Bali. Where precisely is Bali in reference to our home?

Bali’s history – Praying, eating and chilling.

So, what’s all the praying, eating and chilling got to do with Bali, actually it appears to be the essence of tourism. I’m no stranger to Bali as we have both visited, I guess ten times or more, but it’s not to everyone’s taste. Bali is an island primarily of Hindu culture. Indonesia was primarily Hindu until the end of the 13 Century. With the emergence and eventual dominance of the Muslim religion on one hand and secondly war and conflict, the Hindu population gradually retreated to Bali. The Bali economy, since 1970, has primarily been driven by Australian tourism. In those days it was a hippie surfer destination, then Julia Roberts arrived. Bali gained international popularity with her 2010 movie ‘Eat, Pray, Love’. An international audience was introduced to the seductive eating, and the captivating spiritualism of Bali. I have written previously about spiritualism and religion in Indonesia, you can follow the link here.

Markets in Bali – Not quite this romantic, closer to hand-to-hand combat.

Commercial chaos, eating and chilling – An awful amount of waiting around.

Don’t get me wrong, Bali can be very romantic, but it’s also insanely commercial. It’s impossible to leave your accommodation without constant pestering to buy trinkets, clothes, jewelry, massage: it never stops. “Tidak, terima kasih, aku tidak menginginkan itu”, yes it helps to speak some Bahasa Indonesian, or simply say, “No Thank you”.

The Balinese invariably speak English, as a result of long contact with Australians. Though not surprisingly, often with a strong, broad, vowel twisting, Aussie Twang! Take the Australians out of Bali, like what happened through Covid, economic collapse. Every Balinese is an entrepreneur, everyone is on the game, all seeking an edge. They also seem to have hearing like arctic foxes. I always laugh, when a merchant dozing in the afternoon heat, clearly hears my own tortured Aussie vowels, responding: “Howse ewes going mate?” A tactic that seeks to imply understanding and mateship.

Irrespective of Bali’s commercial mayhem, it’s usually clean. No, the attentive young ladies are not what you think. They work in legitimate massage parlours, extremely common. It’s easy to be cynical, to see Bali as full of grifters and chiseling spiffs. And that’s true, however in addition to being friendly and charming grifters, on the other hand Balinese inevitably take their Hinduism very seriously.

Seductive spiritual food – a Whole lot of praying.

Balinese believe that ancestors never leave, their spirit remains. Evil spirits and demons preside, and humans must keep them at peace and in balance. The process of making offerings and undertaking ceremony are critical daily activities, even commerce takes a back seat. Locals’ making offerings, conducting, or preparing for ceremony will frequently interact with your own activity. For a confirmed infidel like me, it’s something incredibly special. However, despite the spiritual atmosphere, it’s often simply necessary to seek refuge in your accommodation. I have a Postcard specifically about spiritualism and eating on the Island of Bali Indonesia. Perhaps you might like to read it by following this link.

Daily offerings of flowers and fruit – Makes the local squirrels incredibly happy chaps.

Accommodation: escape the chaos.

Fortunately, 15 years back I discovered Poppers right in the middle of this madness which offers refuge and peace, a time to refresh before getting back into the fray. It’s a collection of traditional villas, surrounded by a sculptured walled perimeter, creating an oasis. Step inside the gate and chaos simply disappears.

Poppies Kuta – Gateway to peace and tranquility

The accommodation is very traditionally Balinese, a bit old hat these days, but very charming. The Balinese thatched roof or ‘Alang Alang’ is a notable trait. This is actually authentic, there is no western tin roof underneath to ensure water tightness.

The Balinese are exceptional hosts. Poppies staff have been working together for decades, so they exude an obvious sense of ownership and pride. And do they like to chat and practice their English. Mornings for me always start, eating and chilling, with coffee and tropical fruit on that terrace, chatting with the gardeners in our respective broken English and Bahasa. Coffee addicts will love Bali as it grows some of the world’s finest coffee. You might like to sample what Aussies jokingly called ‘poo coffee’, or Kopi Luwak (Luwak Coffee). First you feed raw coffee beans to a small mammal called a Luwak. Balinese collect the partially digested beans that have passed through the Luwak’s bowels, and process as normal.

Yes, I’m with you, I also thought it was a joke, however it’ s no joke now Kopi Luwak is huge international business.

Coffee time – Saya mau, kopi hitam.

Personnaly I prefer Kopi Hitam (Black coffee), or to us Aussies, ‘Bali Collision Kopi’. Rough grind dark roasted beans, add to jug, pour in boiling water, stir and serve. A little grainy, pungently aromatic but simply superb.

Afternoons in Bali can be hot and steamy, cooling rain is not as abundant as it was. So, retreat to Poppies and a cooling swim.

Followed by an afternoon nap, just the thing to set your spirit as ease.

A very traditional Balinese interior, maintained in superb condition.

To place some financial context around Indonesian accommodation, one night’s accommodation in the Villa above costs as follows:

• 140 Australian Dollars.
• 73 Pounds Sterling.
• 89 US Dollars.
• 85 Euro; and
• 9000 Russian Rouble.

Unwelcome guests – Russian style eating, chilling and vodka chasers:

Since my last Bali visit, one thing has changed – Russians! Russians have had a presence in Bali for some time. There have always been rumours of dark criminal Russian money being invested in Bali real estate. Previously I have encountered Russian tourists in the more remote beach side scuba diving resorts, Bali has excellent diving opportunities. Since the invasion of Ukraine, up to 20,000 Russians per month have been arriving in Bali, escaping Putin’s military draft.

One of Russia’s finest – Nude biking is completely acceptable apparently.

Many of the allegations made against the Russians—drunkenness, disrespect of local culture, and dangerous driving—have long been levelled against visitors from across the world, especially so my compatriots. However, Russians are widely seen as particularly egregious offenders.

The Australians also cause problems, that’s for sure, but they are just drunk persons, it’s just childish naughtiness, kind of annoying but that’s about it. But the Russians—no, they think they own the place.”

I Wayan Koster. Govenor of Bali.

Balinese police recently announced a Russian man would be deported and banned from re-entering for six months after partially undressing on a sacred mountain in Bali. He will become the 58th Russian to be evicted this year. (The Balinese might be commercial, but they remain 100% intolerant of disrespect of their spiritualism)

Welcome guests – Aussie style eating, chilling and vodka chasers.

Over the years, Balinese authorities have deported plenty of my countryman, found to have broken the rules, often while intoxicated. But locals say Indonesians and Australians have come to know each other, with many repeat holidaymakers. Drunk young men in Bintang singlets are a minority – even if they make a lot of noise.

So as excited as I am about being back in the Island of the Gods, I could do without the increased presence of drunk Russians!

Corrupt Cops and Military Muscle.

Indonesia has an exceptionally large military. Australia’s relationship with Indonesia has been a roller coaster, the up, down, and sideways relationship of two neighbours who don’t always agree. There has been much distrust from both sides. During my time in the Australian Army, our theoretical opposition, on which volumes of methodology existed, was clearly intended to be Indonesia. Armed forces: military, paramilitary, and police, lurk as a shadowy presence in Indonesia.

There is a frequent police presence in Bali, it’s much like Rome, Italy in the sense that there seem to be uniformed police for every function: Traffic, cultural, religious, tourist, narcotics, theft, etc. Most of them are like Sgt Wayan below, kinda like your uncle, yes, he is a cop, but a friendly one, don’t think he even knows how to use the geriatric old revolver he carries. Sgt Wayan represents a culture of ‘on the spot fines’, you and I would see it as Balinese corruption. It’s notably improved, but still occasionally occurs.

Dad’s Army Indonesian Style

Indonesian Policing – The cute and funny side.

Sometimes Indonesian policing is quite funny, as in the ‘Naughty Tourist Task Force’ (NTTF). I’m sure Indonesian’s laugh at my attempt at speaking Bahasa, they’re just too polite to let it show. You never consider that your native language is complex, it seems logical, you’ve been speaking it since you were born. But nonnative speakers, often can never learn the nuance that you don’t even think about. Oh, I hope I don’t get busted by the NTTF!

Knock Knock – NTFF calling, who knicked the Nasi Goring?

Sometimes the police forces are cute. The role of women in Indonesian society continues to mature and evolve, that’s a good thing.

Indonesian Policing – The paramilitary muscle and no laughing matter side.

Then overnight in an otherwise quiet Bali, serious paramilitary force can simply appear. You realize that such muscle is just hidden away, constantly on tap.

And at times of threat of terrorism, well it gets profoundly serious, Densus 88, anti-terror special forces simply materialize. Note the Steyr Assault Rifle, carried on the right? That just happens to be the standard issue weapon of the Aussie Military. Perhaps surprisingly, given the sometimes-difficult relationship, Densus 88 is substantially trained by Australian Military.

Fortunately, such times are rare. But for an Australian living in a society, where police are scarcely armed, few citizens own weapons and when Australian military simply never go armed in the street – You realize that your probably not in Kansas anymore.

Eating and chilling – Bali style.

One of the pleasures of travelling is the food. Bali does not disappoint. Hygiene is important. There is no such thing as safe tape water in Indonesia. So, a lettuce or vegetable washed in tap water, or a cocktail with tap water ice, well welcome to Bali Belly. Trust me, it’s not only your belly that ends up hurting.

Fortunately, most establishments control the risk, but it’s always present.

Some nights we will eat in the garden at Poppies, with an environment like this, why would you not?

Romance for four? In your own tropical garden.

Bali Dutch colonial influence remains in the food.

A little bit of history and a delicious meal can be found by sampling a ‘Rijsttafel’, a Dutch word that literally translates to rice table. Popular side dishes include egg rolls, sambals, satay, fish, fruit, vegetables, pickles, and nuts. The Dutch introduced the rice table not only so they could enjoy a wide array of dishes at a single sitting but also to impress visitors with the exotic abundance of their colony. Which is ridiculously arrogant, but the Indonesians liked the idea, and it remained well past independence.

The real taste of Indonesia is to be found in the street food. Food carts remain common in cities like Yogyakarta, not so much Bali. Two reasons I suspect, firstly the roads are horribly congested, and secondly infecting tourists with Bali Belly is probably not a good marketing strategy. As tempting as it looks its probable best to avoid.

However, there are plenty of safe alternatives, such as Madi’s Warung.

Madi’s: Authentic Street Food without the risk.

Madi’s is a real institution, often hard to get a table. Offers all manner of authentic Balinese and Indonesian street food.

So yes, I’m excited about my journey which commences in 10 hours.

I’m looking forward to reporting more on my observations on accommodation, architecture, politics, security, society, food, and spiritualism – Indonesian Style.